RatInDaHat Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Hey all, So I finally did a compression test today. I think i know why my car won't idle for crap. Here are the numbers. #1 90 psi #2 30 psi #3 90 psi #4 90 psi These are all approximate, but in the ballpark of what i got. 2 questions now. is around 90 psi good for a '74 1400? Number 2, what are the likely causes for the 30 psi reading? i'm not smoking or anything like that, which leads me to believe that it is probably a piston ring, or valve issue. Anyone have leads on the rebuild stuff i would need for the pistons, or a cheapish crate motor? Thanks, -Dusty- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subieguy Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Switch to the EA-71 1600. Save yourself the trouble with the 1400. It would bolt right in too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 how easy would it be and where could i find one cheaply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subieguy Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 They are fairly easy to come by. They are in 78-80 Brats 77-79 wagons. Some 80's hatches and wagons came with the EA-71 in them. Heck if you were a little closer I have one sitting on the floor of my garage. It had just had a head job done on it when I took it out of a 79 Brat. It is easier to find parts for them than the 1400 you have. Yours is probably the EA-63. Just find a Brat or wagon sitting around and go from there. Got to be one sitting around there somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 I'm sure there is. I just need to find one that isn't too expensive. I'm a broke college kid with a family. Oh and when you guys say it'll bolt right up, will it bolt to the tranny and everything? Thanks, -Dusty- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subieguy Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Yep. It sure will. Might need to use the EA-63 flywheel. Not sure about that. I am sure somebody here will be able to answer that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 guess i need to find one in good shape or find one really cheap that i can rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 adjust your valves, ALL of them!!!! did the o-ring on the compression tester go bad for you? I seem to have that problem on that cyl. every time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 I think you will find the EA71 engine will not simply be a 'bolt on' job. The gearbox for the 74 1400 is quite different to the later 1600 models. It can be done but I think you need to 'space' the gearbox from the bell housing. The transmission main shaft is straight in 1974 gearboxes, from 1975 it is on an angle. I agree with subiemech85, first thing to do would be to adjust the valves then re-check your compression numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 I think you will find the EA71 engine will not simply be a 'bolt on' job. The gearbox for the 74 1400 is quite different to the later 1600 models. It can be done but I think you need to 'space' the gearbox from the bell housing. The transmission main shaft is straight in 1974 gearboxes, from 1975 it is on an angle. I agree with subiemech85, first thing to do would be to adjust the valves then re-check your compression numbers. That's right. You will also have a tricky time with the linkage and fit in the tranny tunnel as I've been told from a guy who's done it several times. I might be doing it to. As for 1400's there's supposedly some that Bryan Thompson came across but never relayed any real info on. He kind of left it so we need to go through him which doesn't help any of us since he apparently no longer uses the email address once attatched to this board and does not reply to PM's. Or he's just being a weenis to me personally. Lucky me,I just found the number from a guy...long story short,I just scored a crate 1400 from good ol' Bryan T's neighborhood. I'd had the guys number for years and finally found it when I got this '74 that just got here. Let me know if you dump your 1400,please. I have the copper shims and factory headgaskets,etc. I will not be giving any up,sorry. I'm lucky to have what I do. Also have new heads so I'm hungry to get a 1400 rebuilt. Ignore all the talk. If you set your 1400 up properly and keep it from overheating it'll be just fine. Also,I'm onto another lot of old dealer stock.I've already had my hands in this lot and am totally sure there's s heap of those copper shims for these engines. The guy has to get back to me so hopefully pretty soon I'll be wrapping that up and have better news for you should you choose to try to keep it going. If you could find a 1300 you might be doing even better. I'm looking for at least one really good one. We have one here that needs a rebuild. More reliable,best economically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 any specific instructions for checking, and adjusting the valves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 checked and adjusted valves and i still have almost no compression on the #2 cylinder. What's the next step to look at? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 is the head capable of being pulled off without pulling the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 and after hooking up my compressor, it is just dumping out of the exhaust valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maudsland Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Sounds like an exhaust valve has gone, 2 things you can do 1; if parts are still available ie head gaskets and valves give it a head job and regrind your valves into the head. 2; as mention before retro fit a 1600, not that difficult but you need to swap the bellhousing off the 1400 onto the 1600, it does fit up trust me, use the 1400 flywheel and space it out about 5mm -1/4 inch and find a bearing you can press into the flywheel to use as a spigot bearing. i am pretty sure that is all you need to do it has been over 20 years since i did it. Thierry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 Sounds like an exhaust valve has gone, 2 things you can do1; if parts are still available ie head gaskets and valves give it a head job and regrind your valves into the head. 2; as mention before retro fit a 1600, not that difficult but you need to swap the bellhousing off the 1400 onto the 1600, it does fit up trust me, use the 1400 flywheel and space it out about 5mm -1/4 inch and find a bearing you can press into the flywheel to use as a spigot bearing. i am pretty sure that is all you need to do it has been over 20 years since i did it. Thierry I want to pull the head and go from there, but can i do it without pulling the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Yes you can. You can pull the head on an EA81 without pulling then engine so i would assume you even have more room on an EA63. Just drain your coolant, pull the intake being VERY careful not to break the bolts off in the head. Unbolt the exhaust and then pull the head. If your going to go that far though do both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maudsland Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 WARNING WARNING WARNING, once you remove the heads do not , repeat do not turn the motor over, very good chance of pushing the liners out when the motor turns and you may have problems with the seal under the liners, they might start to leak water into the oil. Thierry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatInDaHat Posted January 20, 2008 Author Share Posted January 20, 2008 WARNING WARNING WARNING, once you remove the heads do not , repeat do not turn the motor over, very good chance of pushing the liners out when the motor turns and you may have problems with the seal under the liners, they might start to leak water into the oil.Thierry thanks for the heads up. can anyone with a 1400 confirm if they will come off without pulling the motor? to me there doesn't seem to be enough room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maudsland Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 The heads should come off without pulling the motor but why would you, within 1/2 hr of starting you can have the motor sitting on your bench, then easy access to do what ever you need. Thierry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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