mickeykreg Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 I got my Loyale 5 years ago for $280 and it just parked me on the side of the road for the first time, so I guess it doesn't owe me anything. No power! The only thing that has power is the 4 way flashers and the jingle bell when the door is open with the key in the ignition so it seems the battery is ok. Everything else is dead, no click in the ignition...surge of guages etc. I thought it was the alternator so I replaced that with no change. Also checked the 15A ignition fuse in the main fuse block checked all the connections between battery, alternator, starter. I've been looking at the schematic in the Haynes Manual that shows a relay or two that could be culprit. Other than tracing wires how do you tell which relay is which? Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 At first I thought you might be talking about the lack of power in the engine, and I was going to tell you, get used to it, it's normal. But then I read... There is a black plastic box by the battery attached to the drivers side strut tower. Inside are a bunch of wire loops. These are your "fusible links", basically wire made to burn up like a fuse if overloaded. Pull them out of their connectors one at a time and check them for contiuity. Clean up any corrosion, and see if that fixes it. They're usually the culprit in something like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 That happenned to me, too - the burnout happened right above the crimp on the FL. Most likely its the black one. I made it temporarily home by stripping down the raw wire and just kinda cramming it in there. They're ridiculously $$$ at the dealer. Junkyard is a goldmine on that one ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeykreg Posted March 14, 2008 Author Share Posted March 14, 2008 At first I thought you might be talking about the lack of power in the engine, and I was going to tell you, get used to it, it's normal. But then I read... There is a black plastic box by the battery attached to the drivers side strut tower. Inside are a bunch of wire loops. These are your "fusible links", basically wire made to burn up like a fuse if overloaded. Pull them out of their connectors one at a time and check them for contiuity. Clean up any corrosion, and see if that fixes it. They're usually the culprit in something like this. oops, sorry about the use of the word power ...forgot to mention that i checked the fusible links too, just gave em a wiggle, didn't pull em out. So can they appear ok but still be burned up or do they sever like other fuses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Start with the most basic circuit - the crank circuit. It has no fuses, and no relays. It runs through the fusible links, and through a transmission neutral lockout switch. Obviously the problem is not the switch or you would have power everywhere else. I would suspect a bad connection at one of the links, or a bad ignition switch. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevethefolkie Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 I'd check with a known good battery or a jump first - just powering the 4ways and the jingle doesn't really mean squat as both of those are rather low amperage functions - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 So can they appear ok but still be burned up or do they sever like other fuses? short answer - yes. you need to physically try removing & inspecting them. I got some fusible link wire from the local parts store and used the standard crimp on connectors to replace one of mine once...wasnt exactly cheap stuff, but much cheaper than buying one from a dealer would have been. (didnt have a parts car at the time & no JY around here has anything older than 10 yrs...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 does the horn work? check fuse #5 clock/horn. this is hot all the time and supplies volts to the ecu itself. check the ign fuse too do you have an aftermarket radio? if so, see if the single green wire has grounded out blowing mentioned fuse. the black fuse link provides master power to the fuse panel. battery cables are known to fail in the middle of the length inside their insulation, but that is probably not your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperchargedRS Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 X2 on the horn fuse, that did me in for a day once lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeykreg Posted March 15, 2008 Author Share Posted March 15, 2008 All of you are obviously warm with zeal for the subaru queen! Thanks for all the input! I figured it out today! It was a bad splice from who knows how many moons ago! Amazing what poking around with a test light will get you; other than poked fingers. I found I had power to the fusible link portals and power leaving the black link in the big white wire; which leads into the wiring harness. I took the harness apart and found where a, 1 into 2 wire, splice had been made about 18 inches downstream of the fusible link box. Pretty shady looking business and can't imagine the factory putting things together like this, but who knows. I hope this is clear and proves to help somebody soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeykreg Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 I went to the junk yard yesterday and found three more EA 82's with this same splice. Any of you wiring gurus know of any other potential "shady spots" in the wiring harness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I went to the junk yard yesterday and found three more EA 82's with this same splice.Any of you wiring gurus know of any other potential "shady spots" in the wiring harness? Yeah, basically anywhere int he wiring that a split from one to 2 or more wire is made is done by one of those brass ring crimp type connections. They are a very good, conductive, connection. The fact that they tend to corrode is what makes them "shady". Any time I encounter an electrical problem on a Subaru, one of the firt thing I do is look at the diagrahm for that circuit, to see if there is a splice. If there is, I split the harness and find the splice to inspect it. About half the time, it's the problem. Check out thi thread, and the one it reference in the USMB http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85721 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 Those splices are usually pretty well protected with a rubber covering, insulating wrap, then tape - and then sometimes flex wrap, and more tape. You have to understand that they are now 20 years old and long past their life expectancy. They do sometimes cause problems for sure - but I understand the reasoning behind them, and it's more of an annoyance than anything. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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