TurboTbird Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 1995 legacy LS - 95K miles, auto. Was blowing fuses, no turn signals, instrument light, cruise, and STUCK IN PARK, replaced the "Lighting SW" fuse under the hood, all good. Previously I unhooked the backup lights because they wouldnt shut off, I think they caused the short. After I replaced the lighting SW fuse and put bulbs in for the back up lights, they worked. About 2-3 weeks later, car stuck in park again, then no cruise, now no turn signals or instrument again. Turn signal fuse was MELTED! I'm assuming theres a short, but any other ideas? Also, it is weird the car would come out of park after I replaced a fuse, I was thinking it was the linkage. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I searched the site, but it didnt completely solve my issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 You state the fuse melted. By that, do you mean the fuse holder melted or just the internal link inside the fuse? If the outside of the fuse is a problem then the trouble is due to a poor connection to the fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 Also, it is weird the car would come out of park after I replaced a fuse, I was thinking it was the linkage. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I searched the site, but it didnt completely solve my issues. There is a lockout solenoid on the shifter. It' activated by a relay when the key is on, and you depress the brake. If the fuse that was blown powers that circuit, you will be locked out. There is an overide button, in front of the shifter at it's base. For 95, IIRC it is covered by the trim console, so you would need to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 STUCK IN PARK ... Previously I unhooked the backup lights because they wouldnt shut off Maybe there is an issue with the position switch on the side of the auto trans? I think it only fires the solenoid to release the shifter if the shifter is in park. If it thinks the shifter is in reverse, maybe the reverse lights will be on, plus the solenoid wouldn't energize when you step on the brake to let it out of park? Here's some interlock override info: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboTbird Posted March 26, 2008 Author Share Posted March 26, 2008 I know about the manual override, but thanks for the info. I'm gonna check over all the wires and the trans linkage. The fuse plastic casing was melted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 The fuse plastic casing was melted. You will have to replace the fuse holder and fuse in that case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboTbird Posted March 26, 2008 Author Share Posted March 26, 2008 A bad fuse box could have caused all those issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboTbird Posted March 26, 2008 Author Share Posted March 26, 2008 Well heres the really bad news We may have found the problem, the wire that connected to the selonoid under the shifter had some burnt wires and we got some smoke going on when I replaced the turn signal fuse. The fuse wont blow, it just melts. The smoke was coming from the right side of the car, so we pulled out the passenger kickplate and there is burnt wires all over the place, the worst one looks like the blue and black one the goes to the selonoid by the shifter. It took out a crap load of wires with it. I dont know if the selenoid went bad or what. Can I get a new harness? What is this called? HELP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 I don't know why the fuse didn't blow out unless it is over rated for the circuit it is supposed to protect. I would guess it should be rated for about 15 amps. You can replace the harness or try repairing the damaged areas by splicing in new sections of wire to replace the bad spots. If you do that I recommend you solder the connections and carefully tape the bare spots or use heat shrink tubing to cover them. Use a wire gauge at least as big as the original size wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 If you carry comprehensive insurance with say a $200 to $500 deductable, it may be easier to turn in a claim to your insurance company. With that much bad wiring, it is possible that your insurance company may "total" the car. Might be easier to take your insurance claim check, and apply it towards the purchase of another car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboTbird Posted March 27, 2008 Author Share Posted March 27, 2008 Well I dont have the time or patience to work on this car, I guess I'm ditching the subie, its a real shame, this is the first real problem I had with it. It runs like a champ, I'm gonna miss it. I'm gonna get my girl a new car, either an 08 corolla or or lancer. I'm gonna try to get $1000 for the car, has 4 new tires, 95K miles, clean inside and out. Just needs some electrical work now. Heres some pics, very poor quality taken on my cell phone, but it shows the area where the wires are burnt, I think the blue and black one from the shifter burnt them all out, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.