hiltz2o Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 For anyone who has been reading my threads you know I have been trying to chase this problem down. For two days my 84 GL ran like a brand new car and today it suddenly began having all the sputtering probelms returning and so on. My next questions are these if anyone has a clue: 1. Could the ignition pulse problem be caused by the fact that my ignition coil is leaking a bit of oil? Could the coil be overheating? 2. Could the oxygen sensor be causing this ignition pulse code to come on and cause my problem? 3. Could the sensor with the vacuum lines connected to it in the air cleaner assembly be causing the problem? 4. Could the distributor or the control module be causing this problem? 5. Could the carb be so worn that it is throwing off the system to display this code? 6. Is there any way to get my hands on a factory service manual or find one scanned online? Thanks and if anyone else has had experience with the ignition pulse problem please let me know. I know I am beating this subject like a dead horse but this is my only vehicle right now while I'm paying my way through college and providing for my wife and 2 kids so I have a lot more time to stay up late and work with this thing than $$$ right now. I also don't really feel like exchanging this out to a weber either for $$$ reasons. Thanks for all the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 You can buy a factory service manual through the dealer - about $80. You can also sometimes find them on ebay. I seriously doubt your problem is related to the code. What you have is a seriously horrible carb setup. It's very complex, and if you really want to work with it (I don't sugest it) then you NEED an FSM. There's just no way around it. There are none scanned as far as I know. I would like to do it eventually, but I just never have the time. You don't have to buy a Weber to make it work though. Just get a non-feedback Hitachi and bolt it straight on. They are cheap - if you post in the wanted section someone will have one. Hell - I can get one from my local yard for $25 (+ shipping to you) if you like. Then you buy a rebuild kit, fix the spare carb up nice, and swap it out. When you do the swap you yank all the junk related to the feedback system out and you have a nice, simple carb. There is no silver bullet for this, and there's virtually no one here outside of myself that has worked, to any great extent, with the feedback systems. I *know* how they work, I own all the manuals, and I still won't run one. Take a look at my post count..... think perhaps I've been down this road eh? It's not hard to rebuild a carb if you are careful - you can do it, and it won't be terribly expensive. Heck - even Weber's aren't all that expensive if you get a used one cheap and rebuild it. I've done a complete Weber swap - Used carb, rebuild kit, rejeting, new choke, and adaptor plate for under $200. You'll throw away (as in trash) the same amount of money troubleshooting the feedback system. Replace the O2, the CTS, and buy a rebuild kit for the carb and you are halfway to the cost of doing a Weber swap already. There's far more money in replacing the parts of the feedback system than there is in a simple Weber without all the extra junk. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nocashrider Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 yea i got something similar today when i was drivin after im guessing about 10 min of steady driving the ecs light came on and i checked and got a code 11 but the car it self runs pretty decent so i dont really know what to do with the code because there isnt that much info on the problem i would like to fix whatever the problem is but it looks like its had it for a while because the previous owner just put a little piece of black tape over the ecs light so he wouldnt have to see it i guess o yea when i turn the car off its gone and doesnt show back up until im driving about 10 min again 86 gl wagon 2 wheel drive 5spd carbed mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiltz2o Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 I am starting to have my doubts if this code has anything to do with my problem as well. The two days that the thing was running great the ECS light was still coming on. What years had the non feedback carb that bolts on? I am going to call a salvage yard in my town to see if they would have it. Does it use the same air cleaner box? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 What years had the non feedback carb that bolts on? I am going to call a salvage yard in my town to see if they would have it. Does it use the same air cleaner box? All years. 49 states (non-california) 4WD's had plain non-feedback. You want an 84 (any model), or an 85 through 89 EA81 Hatchback, or an 85 through 87 EA81 Brat for the proper carb. 82 and 83 would also work with slight modifications to the hose routings for the vacuum choke pull-off. The feedback and non-feedback carbs are THE SAME CARB. There's no phisical difference between them. The difference is in the jetting and how the metering ports are hooked up. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiltz2o Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 All years. The feedback and non-feedback carbs are THE SAME CARB. There's no phisical difference between them. The difference is in the jetting and how the metering ports are hooked up. GD Couldn't I just rebuild the one I have then with a rebuild kit from a non feedback and take off the feedback equipment? I guess I don't understand the differences between the feedback and non feedback in this way ---- did the same model years (like my 1984 with this problem) come with the option of both feedback or non feedback? How could I determine which carb is which from looking at them at a salvage yard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 The jetting (inside the carb) is different. Rebuild kits do not come with jets and there's about 7 or 8 of them that have to be switched in order to make it a non-feedback version. You can tell which carb a junk yard car has by looking for the ECU, the O2 sensor, or the duty solenoids. All of those will tell you immediately if it's a feedback. There are model numbers on the back of the float chamber, but it's often difficult to read them. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiltz2o Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 You can tell which carb a junk yard car has by looking for the ECU, the O2 sensor, or the duty solenoids. All of those will tell you immediately if it's a feedback. GD What is a duty solenoid? Also, are those the main factors (O2 + duty solenoids) that determine the feedback given to the carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.