Hey gang. I'm looking at a 92 legacy with awd. Owner stated "something in the trans is wrong. Trans is fine straight but when turned, the car shakes like it has a locker. Any ideas, is this serious or just a simple adjustment. Says the cars great but has this issue.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Jake

could be torque bind.....is this a manual trans or automatic?...either way do a search for "torque bind" or look down the bottom of this thread for the related posts.....how many miles?

the car is an automatic with 135000 on the clock. I've experienced this sort of thing before but that was on my 85 audi quattro with vaccuum operated locking diffs front and rear( and you guys thought your subbs were great in snow?)

 

thanks again

 

Jake

Put a fuse in the FWD holder under then hood on the passenger size near the firewall. It will disable the four wheel drive.

 

That way you'll know if it the AWD or the trans.

could always try changing the auto. trans fluid..... and with the new fluid add an additive/conditioner (i have heard that this works in some cases)....

Put a fuse in the FWD holder under then hood on the passenger size near the firewall. It will disable the four wheel drive.

 

That way you'll know if it the AWD or the trans.

 

So if FWD fuse in holder (what size fuse to use?) and it still shudders is that tranny issue? If tranny issue is it clutch pack or something easier to fix?

So if FWD fuse in holder (what size fuse to use?) and it still shudders is that tranny issue?

 

The "proper" operation of the center differential requires an electrical signal to be generated in the TCM (transmission control module beside the steering collum) and make it's way, down a wire, through several connectors, to what is called the "duty C" solenoid, inside the transmission. This "duty C" solenoid switches on, and off, as required, to apply hydraulic pressure, as needed, to the clutch pack inside the transmission, that makes up your center differential unit.

 

It is one of those things that you can spend a lot of time properly diagnosing just EXACTLY what the problem is. I have it on good authority that pin #3 at the TCM connector should show 9-15 ohms to ground (the resistance of the duty C solenoid) , this would eliminate most of the potential electrical problem (excepting the TCM), and once you eliminate the TCM (by substitution), you are indeed looking at a transmission "issue".

 

In an older car, issues such as this are tough to track down, many times you can spend more time "tracking" than "fixing".