I'm used to XT6 timing belts marks, which you can get dead on. Am I expecting too much from the EA82 marks?

 

On the drivers side it seems about 1/2 to the left or 1/2 to the right, it won't line up perfectly. It barely runs on the "1/2 to the right" placement, so it's obviously the left.

 

When I line the cam hole up perfectly the 3 lines on the flywheel are definitely out of the picture.

 

Last EA82 I did was last summer and I don't recall having this problem.

First line up the three lines on the fly wheel. Take the belts off and try to line up the cams and then replace the belts. If you are still having trouble getting it started, then you probably are having a problem with the distributer position, so I would take off the set screwss and monkey with the disty until it runs nice and if necessary, reposition the disty shaft. It sound like someone messed with this engine before you got it, so you may have to play a little to get it right.

 

As far as the 1/2 off deal, I wouldn't worry about that much. There is alot of forgiveness in these engines and you should be able to make the thing run right just by adjusting the disty a little.

 

good luck

to avoid confusion, this isn't about how to install the belts at all, that's not the issue/question. some dork did mess with this engine! i castrated a 87.5 XT Turbo and put a non-turbo engine in it.

 

it does run fine, i took it for a drive and though it was very slow and gutless (even more than an EA82 should be), it ran and drove fine. idled very low - 450-500 rpm's. but it does run and drive.

 

As far as the 1/2 off deal, I wouldn't worry about that much. There is alot of forgiveness in these engines and you should be able to make the thing run right just by adjusting the disty a little.

 

that's what i'm wondering....that 1/2 tooth off. are other EA82's like that or are you guys having any that line up exactly?

Have you made sure the crank belt sprockets are on in the correct order? The one with the groove in the back goes on the inside next to the seal.

 

The covers ARE plastic, so the mark being 1/2 tooth off isn't out of the question.

 

I run without covers on the EA82's I've had - always timed then just fine by going with "straigh up" and "straight down" on the marks. I use the seam at the cam case/head as a guide.

 

GD

Have you made sure the crank belt sprockets are on in the correct order? The one with the groove in the back goes on the inside next to the seal.

been three years since i had it apart. can i do a visual without removing them? no problem removing them of course.

 

The covers ARE plastic, so the mark being 1/2 tooth off isn't out of the question.

oh yeah, the inner covers are in excellent condition, not cracked, solid, tight, no play in them. i run without covers too, though i retain the inner covers until they're falling apart or i have some reason to go in and remove them.

 

any EA82 people - do your marks line up perfectly? someone on the XT forum said theirs is the same way...drives side is slightly to the left rather than perfect.

I've had several ea82 engines in the past that did not line up perfectly. I never thought about it and just drove them and then sold them. I guess it is just a quirk of these engines.

I've had several ea82 engines in the past that did not line up perfectly. I never thought about it and just drove them and then sold them. I guess it is just a quirk of these engines.

great, thanks boss that's good to hear.

 

have you ever had any line up perfectly? seems bizarre they wouldn't just have them positioned/manufactured correctly?

I have had probably two dozen subes over the past fifteen years. ( I rebuilt them and sold them as a hobby) Some lined up perfectly and some didn't. I guess it is an issue of manufacturing tolerances.

Mine lined up pretty much exactly with the plastic, there was no question what tooth they went on. For whatever it's worth.

Mine are maybe the width of the hole in the cam sprocket off.

 

If I were you, I would look at the crank sprockets, like GD suggested. The covers, belts etc. have to come off to check.

 

I have had the passenger side cam a whole tooth off. It ran OK, but it was gutless and ran warm. Fuel consumption was affected as well. With you rproblem on the driver's side, it will affect spark timing as well. Just out of curiosity, where is the spark timing set when it is together and operating 1/2 tooth out?

I've had them seem not quite right.

 

That said, it seems the best way to check would just be to pull the belts off and check it all out.

 

And like GD said, go by srtaight up and down, instead of the marks on the covers. Even if that plastic is in good shape, it seems like those notches can be off.

I work in a shop that specializes in subby's. That is the majority of what we do, is timing belts. The one thing we do is buy oem belts. We still have some motors that don't line up perfect. But I have had a lot of aftermarket that just don't seem to be as acurate as oem.

I work in a shop that specializes in subby's. That is the majority of what we do, is timing belts. The one thing we do is buy oem belts. We still have some motors that don't line up perfect. But I have had a lot of aftermarket that just don't seem to be as acurate as oem.

 

Doesn't matter on EA82s. There are no marks on the belts. If there are, I ignore them. The marks are all on the pulleys and flywheel.

Just out of curiosity, where is the spark timing set when it is together and operating 1/2 tooth out?

it was at 15 degrees, that's after having never been adjusted. I put a new JDM engine in and new ECU after a conversion (turbo to non-turbo). I'll set it properly once I put it back to the LEFT 1/2 tooth side.....ha, ha, since that's where it runs.

Mine do not line up perfectly with the inner covers. I just set them straight up and straight down, and that worked fine.

Andy

put on the side of the belt opposite of the tensioner and let the slack side go towards the tensioner, work in that direction.

 

otherwise if you have slack that could make the marks not appear right.

 

the notch on the timing belt covers line up with the cam cover seals

 

although you can install the passenger belt with the cam dot facing down atfter installing the first belt, you are better off rotating the crank 360 degrees and installing the belt cam dot up so the cam is at rest with the valvetrain

You would have to remove the sprockets to check if they are on in the correct order. It just so happens that they are 1/2 tooth offset - which could EASILY account for a lot of people's belts not lining up. The sprockets look identical except one has a groove for the front crank lip seal....

 

I bet it's also a big source of the "poor performace and mileage" reputation that EA82's have.

 

GD

although you can install the passenger belt with the cam dot facing down atfter installing the first belt, you are better off rotating the crank 360 degrees and installing the belt cam dot up so the cam is at rest with the valvetrain

 

Why do you say you are "better off"? I've always done it this way and have yet to see a problem with it.

 

I see the reason they designed the procedure with the 360 rotation, but without belt covers it really doesn't matter as long as you have a good eye for straight up and down.

 

GD

With belt covers, there is actually a notch both top and bottom. But it is hard to see the bottom notch with the radiator in the way, so rotating the crank 360 is the easy way to go.

 

Without belt covers, it is probably just habit. Never tried it. I haven't any reason to pull off the rear belt covers.

 

I like to crank everything around a couple of times to check it, and make sure nothing slipped. Often it has. I work on my car to save money, not time, and the extra time spent is well worth it. Much better than having to strip it all down again to correct it later.

Have you made sure the crank belt sprockets are on in the correct order? The one with the groove in the back goes on the inside next to the seal.

 

checked it out this morning and the crank sprockets appear to be on correctly. let me get this straight though - the inner (next to the seal) sprocket is identical to the outer sprocket but has some more material machined off around the inner bore. this is what you meant by "groove" right?

 

pulled everything off, reinstalled and it did the same thing. that's really annoying. but i guess they run like that so i won't consider that the problem? i'm having trouble with the car and wanted to rule this out. i guess i am.

 

i felt like swapping the sprockets "just to see", but i got it back together now so forget it!

The bore of the inner sprocket is countersunk, or chamfered, on the side that goes towards the engine block.

 

Are the cam sprockets identical? If not, could they be swapped?

i just did a set on an 87 gl wagon yesterday.. everything lined up perfectly..no half tooth anything.. and thats even after teh idler locked up, exploded and blew the belt and cover off the drivers side

this is what you meant by "groove" right?

 

Yes - it's that way to allow room for the lip seal. Sounds like they are correct then.

 

GD