As the title states... I'm strongly considering a seemingly screaming deal on a low mileage (<100k) 99OBW at a local dealership (a Honda/Acura place, not a fly by night used car joint). Considering that alone, I am sure they've done some basic looking over to make sure its a semi-decent car to sell, rather than ditch at the dealers auction (like my boss had me do back when I was in the business).

 

I've gotta give them an answer tomorrow sometime....

 

Just curious from you NewGen OldTimers as to what I should look for/at with regards to inspecting the car? I am aware from my research that 99 2.5's had head gasket issues, and I have familiarized myself as to what to look for there.. but what else should I pay particular attention to?

As the title states... I'm strongly considering a seemingly screaming deal on a low mileage (<100k) 99OBW [...] I am aware from my research that 99 2.5's had head gasket issues, and I have familiarized myself as to what to look for there.. but what else should I pay particular attention to?

Listen for piston slap when the engine is cold. (Yes, I realize you might never experience it in Florida, especially this time of year.) Check for torque bind during tight, low speed turns. If an auto trans, see if there's slow engagement when shifting from reverse to drive.

 

Try to determine when the timing belt was last replaced. It may not have been as yet, but is very nearly due. The 2.5 is an interference engine, so that's a critical issue.

Head gaskets, extended test drive on highway to see if it overheats. Tight circles in a parking lot to check for torque bind. The piston slap noise is just annoying they run forever like that.

Verify which motor it is - they both have very distinct failures modes.

The SOHC EJ25 was in all 2000's and some 1999's - someone here can verify?

 

SOHC (some 1999's)- you don't look for overheating - you look for external leakage at the rear of the head to block mating surface.

 

DOHC (1996-1999) - these overheat. make the test drive as long as possible and get it up to operating temperature quickly or just let it idle awhile before you actually leave the lot. the overheating is random and can happen any time or not happen at all. it's not an easy one to spot when they first start...which is also a prime time to dump the car, so keep the eyes peeled.

 

torque bind.

 

1999's have some bizarre (bizarre that they mostly happen in 1999's only for some reason...and a few 2000's) transmission and speedometer issues. make sure the speedo works and look for a noticeable delay in shifting from park to drive or various other combinations of shifting. pay particular attention when starting the car up cold....you know *cold* down there, right!?!?!

Check for oil leaks in the underneath such as crankseal and the oil pump and camseals, and also check the valve cover gaskets on the sides, you might also want to check in the back of the oil pan for another oil leak coming from the seperator plate, which is in the back of the engine, they were plastic and they replaced them to metal due to the problems with them leaking, other than that all the other stuff that everybody mentioned is what to look for.

 

1999's have some bizarre (bizarre that they mostly happen in 1999's only for some reason...and a few 2000's) transmission and speedometer issues. make sure the speedo works and look for a noticeable delay in shifting from park to drive or various other combinations of shifting.

 

Funny you mention it, I just recently replaced a Speedo head in a 99 OBW. The car had 94k on it, but we found a speedo head that on;y had.......are you ready.......14k. Yup, not 140, but 14K.

 

I put a sticker on the back of the unit with the cars original milage at time of swap. And gave him a receipt that clearly stated vehichle milage is 80k more than indicated, which I made the client sign. I also advised him to check the odometer discrepancy box with that info when he ever sells it.