'87 version, front-passenger side. I have read all there is to read here but lots of versions. Someone care to simplify what needs to be loosened, removed, dropped, etc?

 

1. knock out pin

2. ball joint, tie rod, strut, neither?

3. take off nut and punch out shaft through hub.

 

Thats pretty simple to me, its point #2 there seems to be some confusion on.

a lot of people use the edrach method from the USRM...

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

 

 

--Spiffy

Which I had read but there seemed to be some revisions and different thoughts. Some say do this, some say you dont need to do this but you need to do that....etc.

yeah, it often depends on how things go once you start getting parts removed... I went through that guide and ended up straying slightly... it's the basics of getting it loose and getting it out of the knuckle that are the tough parts...

 

I say just go for it and you'll know which path to take when you get there...

 

 

--Spiffy

Roll pin.

 

Inner control arm bolt.

 

Sway bar link.

 

Pull axle off tranny.

 

Drive axle out of knuckle.

 

Reverse for installation.

 

GD

 

P.S. I've done a LOT of these. In case you didn't realize it for yourself.

Which I had read but there seemed to be some revisions and different thoughts. Some say do this, some say you dont need to do this but you need to do that....etc.

I've done a number of these in the past and I'm a firm believer in what I don't take apart I don't have to put back together. But I'm not averse to those who modify my suggestions or "do it their way". Whatever works for you is what you should do.

GD, excellent, that is what I was looking for.

 

Edrach, thats why I wrote. I would rather not take a whole lot apart as well.

For the record I use the control arm bolt and the sway bar link because they are easy to access, and far away from the grease boots which both the ball joint and the tie rod end have. Mess with those too much and you are very likely to puncture a boot. Plus they are often quite a pain in the butt bieng the ball joint is slotted pinch arrangement and the tie rod is a mechanical taper fit. Both are prone to rusting in place in a severe way, and both are easy to damage when removing (not an issue if you are intending on replaceing them, but definately an issue if you are just going in for an axle).

 

With the control arm loose from the engine cross-member the whole knuckle assembly is free to pivot and move on the strut top and the leading rod bushing - both of which are rubber and afford a lot more movement than you need to pull the axle free and drop it. It rarely takes more than 30 minutes to do a single axle.

 

That's *my* way and my reasoning - having done it several ways and found what works and what doesn't. Each car is different though and there are cases where a different approach is useful if you run into severe rust along the way.

 

GD

Right on. And the best place to get an axle online would be?

I'm running EMPI axles right now and they have been fine. Not sure who has them online but EMPI's web site might have some links.

 

GD

I've bought axles from CVaxles.com in Ocala, FL in the past and have been happy with them. Last set I purchased has been from MWE and I am still running on both of them without issues. Currently, I've gotten cheap in my old age and pull good looking axles at Pull a Part and re-boot them for my use.

http://www.cvaxles.com/

http://ccrengines.com/mwe/index.html

.... and far away from the grease boots which both the ball joint and the tie rod end have. Mess with those too much and you are very likely to puncture a boot. Plus they are often quite a pain in the butt being the ball joint is slotted pinch arrangement and the tie rod is a mechanical taper fit. Both are prone to rusting in place in a severe way, and both are easy to damage when removing

GD is right on the money here.

Inner control arm bolt.

Sway bar link.

I went this way as well and it seemed the easiest out of the two I found written up on here...

 

 

--Spiffy

Great, ordered an EMPI and am ready to go.

Roll pin.

 

Inner control arm bolt.

 

Sway bar link.

 

Pull axle off tranny.

 

Drive axle out of knuckle.

 

Reverse for installation.

 

GD

 

Finally got to it. That was it to a tee, very simple to do.

I cant imagine doing it where rust is involved though!