So wait - the one the shop put in is loose enough you can move the nut with channel-locks?!?!

 

Take it back to them and make a huge scene.

 

Seriously - you will need to replace the cone washer and possibly the hub at this point as the taper lock will be worn and unusable. They really need to fix it right.

 

The nut HAS to be torqued. The taper lock HAS to be smooth. And the Spring washer HAS to be installed correctly. If they aren't you WILL fight this till the axle tears the hub splines out and you lose front wheel drive.

 

Never go to that shop again.

 

GD

Thanks GD, Good Advice. I'm of the sort that does not return bad food to the kitchen at resturaunts because I figure the cooks will do something nasty and I don't want to make a scene at the shop and then leave my car so they can %%$# with it. I think I'll cut my losses and get a new cone and spring washer.

 

Were do I get those at. Also what is a good online site for SUb parts.

Dealership is going to be your best bet for the cone washer, and a junk yard would be most adequate for a hub as they aren't typically wear items.

 

www.subarupartsforyou.com is one that I know of.

 

GD

I went back to the shop. We got the Torq wrench an went to 180 lbs and its quieter, but still there. What is causing the clicking. Is the shaft coming out of the wheel hub angled funny, sc

The cone washer is worn out and needs to be replaced. No amount of torque will get it properly seated now as there is a ridge worn into it from the nut being loose and allowing the whole thing to wear against the mating surface of the hub. You could torque it to 500 lbs and it would still not stop the noise. It will keep coming back till you replace the cone washer and potentially the hub (I certainly would), or until you strip the splines out of the hub and and are forced to replace the hub, axle, cone washer, and maybe other things.

 

GD

The subaruparts for you site says

 

good news/bad news

 

the spring washer is available $11

the cone washer is discontinued

Sigh

The subaruparts for you site says

the cone washer is discontinued

Sigh

I hope not. I ordered a couple on Monday from the local dealer, along with a few other items. I'll know in a couple days when my order shows up.

Chattanooga Suburu Dealer had the cone washer . "Axle separater" or something they called it. $15 bucks and the spring washer for 11 or so, I'll get mine on Monday. Stay tuned

Chattanooga Suburu Dealer had the cone washer . "Axle separater" or something they called it. $15 bucks and the spring washer for 11 or so, I'll get mine on Monday. Stay tuned

I got mine today. The spring washers listed for $9.95ea, and the cone washers ('center piece', according to the fsm) were $10.85ea. My shop discount is only 10% off that but that includes the 55 mile delivery service. I was just glad to get them!

Dave, OR GD, I know the answer but here it is. I've sidelined the GL till I try out the new parts. My Kid just got his license and he no can drive. its so sad.

 

Is continued driving real real bad if its clicking or just kinda bad? Sometimes I think the axle lines up and it stops clicking or when its spinning fast I think it lines up and stops. Or maybe the car is so noisy I cant hear it when I going 55. Sc

It's a grey area. Eventually it would get loose enough that the splines would strip out of the hub and probably be permanently damaged on the axle shaft. At which point you lose FWD and are only going to move the car under 4WD or with a tow.

 

I've been there - it's not real cool. Still not a terribly expensive failure in the scheme of things, but one I would rather avoid.

 

GD

I got my parts, took off the old spring washer and the the cone washer. the cone washer was indeed scratchie looking. I did not have a torque wrench but I did find a giant socket rachet wrench. and rolled that nut as much as I could.

Its mucho tight . It is mostly better, I hear clicking sometime but it is way softer and it could possible the cv on the driver side. So way to go GD, good call. I'm turning another teenager loose in the incredible indestructable.

84 GL. SC

you really shouldn't tighten without a torque wrench. If you go too tight, you can damage bearings, warp the hub etc......if you go too loose, well just find a tq wrench and check it please.

I've had several bad new cv axles for my brat! They don't make quality axles for these thing or at least I haven't had any!

you really shouldn't tighten without a torque wrench. If you go too tight, you can damage bearings, warp the hub etc......if you go too loose, well just find a tq wrench and check it please.

^ What he said. The spec is 145ft lbs and up to an additional 30 degrees to get a notch to line up for the cotter pin. When I did mine last weekend I used every bit of that extra 30 degrees, but no more.

Most of the time I would agree with using a torque wrench. But in this case emperical evidence sugests that it's REALLY freakin hard to break anything in there, and the axle nut can handle more than most people can throw at it. I use a 4 foot cheater and go as tight as my 225 lbs can go. I've never had a failure of any kind and you aren't going to warp the cast iron hub unless you are on PCP. The same 36mm is used on VW rear axle nut's and they are spec'ed at 250 Ft/lbs.

 

GD