Hi Guys!

 

I recently purchased a 95 Legacy automatic

Seems that I have trouble with the famous transfer duty solenoid ...

Is this something expensive to fix ?? I don't have the time to do it myself, too busy with the new home and with the baby:)

I 've read somewhere that it was possible to place a fuse to convert it to 2wd...Is that something you would recommend as a tempory solution ?

thanks !

Greg

you might want to describe what it's doing and what problems you're having. if you think you have torque bind:

 

at the onset - a fluid change or a few or a flush may solve the problem.

 

or - making sure your tires match, will solve the problem.

 

after that you'll need to replace the rear clutches and duty solenoid C to fix the problem. the transmission does not need to come out in order to do that repair.

 

whether or not to drive it in FWD is a largely opinionated messy discussion (TONS of prior posts about this, just search for "torque bind"). those of us, like myself, that have done it will tell you it's fine and we have done so with no ill effects. those that haven't done it will tell you it's a bad idea and support not with experience but academia and theoretical talk. your car, your decision on whether to take advice from the back seat guys that aren't doing it, or those that have.

thanks for your advice,

I have the oill temp light flashing 16 times, so it seems that it's the transfer duty solenoid...am I right ?

Is replacing the TDS expensive ? How many hours of labour ?

cheers from montreal

Greg

I have the oill temp light flashing 16 times, so it seems that it's the transfer duty solenoid...am I right ?

the flashing oil temp light means there's a code in the transmission. there are quite a few transmission codes. you'll need to read the codes or have them read. there are instructions posted on this forum about how to read the codes yourself if you want to search for them.

 

the oil temp light alone does not indicate a transfer duty solenoid failure. the Duty C solenoid (transfer duty solenoid) usually experiences some symptoms when it fails so i doubt that's why it's flashing if you're not experiencing any driving symptoms.

 

if you don't know anything about the prior history/maintenance of the car, then the fluid needs changed and you need to make sure all the tires match in size and tread.

 

$400 - $700 to replace the solenoid and clutch pack.

thanks for your advice,

I have the oill temp light flashing 16 times, so it seems that it's the transfer duty solenoid...am I right ?

Is replacing the TDS expensive ? How many hours of labour ?

cheers from montreal

Greg

the duty c can be ordred on line with 2 gaskets for less than 100$. (75 - 90?)

 

cluthc plates are about another 100 - 120$.

 

labor 3- 4 hours. it probably should be less but thats what i was charged. i think the book time to remove & replace the trans is 3.5 hr. this should not be more.

this forum is a gold mine !

thanks guys !

Any online parts store to recommend in Canada or US ?

cheers

Greg

Hi everone,

Been reading the post about the Transfer Duty Solenoid and clutch plates. I am having the same problem.( 2001 Subaru Impreza outback sport). Where the best place to buy the Solenoid and clutch plates and what infomation do I need to give them? 

Thanks

Takes me about 3 hours to fix and i keep the slip rings in stock and the clutch pack i see few failed soiliniods mostly burnt clutches and damaged tail shaft outputs rings that have worn into case

What are clutch plates and how can I tell if I need them?  2001 Subaru impreza outback sport..

What are clutch plates and how can I tell if I need them?  2001 Subaru impreza outback sport..

 

Auto or manual?

I stop on a steep gravel hill and punch it if front wheels spin before rear comes on is problem should be instant awd and dig 4 holes and drive away a good one dosent even spin the front one turn a bad one will spin front tires and rear comes on slow or not at all or violently. The clutches are located in the tailshaft of trans and can be done with trans in car. My first step to diagnose is to put in 2wd fuse and go for long drive this holds the soiliniod open and will clear anything that may be blocking it

Speaking of crud in the solenoid, when I had mine apart I noticed the feed to the solenoid and valve has its own little filter, the black thing to the right in this view.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=7459

 

BTW this is an existing attachment from another post but I can't seem to get it to display, hence the link.

Edited June 14, 201312 yr by CNY_Dave

Sorry Dave,   It's an auto.....Thanks Ivans Imports,  I will try that..

Since you have an auto, the clutch plates are a set of fiber/metal disks which clamp the rear driveshaft to the 'front driveshaft', how much they clamp depends on how much hydraulic pressure as applied to them. They are just like a motorcycle clutch.

 

If they 'burn out' or wear out the rear wheels do no pushing, if they get overheated or overused they can 'stick' and give AWD when none is called for, giving torque bind.

 

I have done Ivan's gravel test on dirt, snow, gravel etc and it is permissible if there is a very short delay before the rear wheels start to spin, but only a short delay, and with no large 'clunk' or 'bang'.

 

If everything is working properly if you see a small delay stomping on it in D, you should see a shorter delay or no delay if you put it in '1'.

 

Even in '1' if your foot is off the gas the amount of lockup that is applied is quite small. With any gas applied at all the lockup in '1' is more than in 'D'.

Auto or manual?

It's a 2001 subaru impreza outback sport, 2.2 engine, auto,

Sorry for taking so long to respond.. little medical probles at home...