Replaced the MAF and had no change?

Have you replaced the knock sensor? Those fail pretty often and don't always set a code.

I guess my extended initial answer never made it...

 

Yes OBDI, no CE lights. New wire shorted to exhaust manifold. Used old wire and ran to Tomball and back. Ok but bucks a little at downshifts and decelerations. Can you spec your preferred wire set?

 

Though I was careful and watched the video, this might be a "improper use of dielectric grease" deal. Next set no grease.

 

I used what I would call a "coin" style gap tool. Is the desired gap measurement made from where the leading edge of the strap hits the gauge point, or from the center of where the strap hits the gauge point?

I don't know what MAF is. I replaced an o2 sensor that was causing a check engine light a couple of months ago. Only the occasional stumble driving today.

are you still getting all the same blink codes you listed?

 

on something as old as 92, I'd be tempted to put in a knock sensor and maybe a crank position sensor but, maybe the codes will point to something else?

This is on a 95 Legacy with 200k miles. New plug wires and plugs, fuel filter, cooling sensor/sender, knock sensor, and O2 sensor.

 

I've been fighting this stumble problem since September and still don't have it completely solved. I finally got it to stop "hard stumbling" by cleaning the MAF with Gunk and a toothbrush. Now, it's more like a shudder or tremor, not all the time but often enough to cause consternation. Kinda feels like a front tire problem or a front end problem. If I accelerate through the shudder it sometimes clears it up for awhile.

 

I'm guessing the MAF is failing slowly but I just don't know. 

 

Question: I see MAF's from $70 to $470. What can you folks recommend?

 

Any other ideas?

Is this happening only while driving? Does it happen when the car is in park either idling or with the revs up? Is there a check engine light?

If there's no check engine light and it only happens when you're driving then most likely it's a mechanical issue of some sort. Tie rod, ball joint, bushing, mount, etc. could also be a tire balance issue or a damaged tread. Too many things to mention honestly.

If it does when the car isn't driving, check your OBD. But more info on when or how it happens would help.

 

Question: I see MAF's from $70 to $470. What can you folks recommend?

 

Any other ideas?

 

I do.  Just go to a junk yard and get an used OEM one.  This is not to endorse the idea that the MAF is responsible for the hesitation.  But it's one way to eliminate that possibilty.  I assume that you the hell out of the throttle plate andd IAC valve.

I guess my extended initial answer never made it...

 

Yes OBDI, no CE lights. New wire shorted to exhaust manifold. Used old wire and ran to Tomball and back. Ok but bucks a little at downshifts and decelerations. Can you spec your preferred wire set?

 

Though I was careful and watched the video, this might be a "improper use of dielectric grease" deal. Next set no grease.

 

I used what I would call a "coin" style gap tool. Is the desired gap measurement made from where the leading edge of the strap hits the gauge point, or from the center of where the strap hits the gauge point?

 

NGK, without hesitation... both plugs and wires.

 

spark plugs - OE series - part # BKR5E-11, stock # 6953

plug wire set - part # RC-FX41, stock #8004

 

I have run NGK plugs & wires on every Subaru I have ever owned (on #4 now) and never had a problem with them.

Auto Parts Store wires have been nothing but problems.

 

when using the "coin" type gapping tool - it is read at the edge of the electrode when it stops the tool from moving - not the center. These are not the best gapping tools around, but used correctly are ok