I've got this code on my 2002 model Legacy with a manual transmission. Any ideas where to start?

I believe the code is saying that the circuit has an unexpected high resistance to the switch. Check the connections to the switch, they may be loose.

Edited November 15, 200817 yr by Cougar

I am thinking I got a bad switch. Here's why:

 

I had an obscure P1507 code that can be caused by a bad Neutral Safety Switch. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92333

 

After replacing the switch...no more P1507 code. Yeah!

 

Now a P0852 code. Doh!

 

From what Nipper says, I am thinking the "new" switch is suspect. I will go check all the wires and connections first, just in case. Thanks guys.

I'd take it to the Subie dealer, diagnosis will run ya ~60 bucks...

 

That code can also be set if the key is turned to the "start" position without the clutch fully depressed, the last one I saw that was like that, the customer had their floor mats stacked and it wasn't letting the clutch go all the way to the floor.

I'd take it to the Subie dealer, diagnosis will run ya ~60 bucks...

 

That code can also be set if the key is turned to the "start" position without the clutch fully depressed, the last one I saw that was like that, the customer had their floor mats stacked and it wasn't letting the clutch go all the way to the floor.

 

many garages will read your computer and tell you what the code is for free so check around!

Lots of chain auto parts will read ODB2 codes for free - but typically won't clear them.

 

That said - I doubt this is an ODB2 code so it may have to go to the dealer, someone with a decent scanner, etc. Not just a 50 dollar ODB2 scanner.

 

Dave

Lots of chain auto parts will read ODB2 codes for free - but typically won't clear them.

 

That said - I doubt this is an ODB2 code so it may have to go to the dealer, someone with a decent scanner, etc. Not just a 50 dollar ODB2 scanner.

 

Dave

 

My mom had hers read at a chevy dealership and they read the codes cleared them and researched the code for her which was dealer specific all for free so thats why I said check around but its probably easier to just go to a subaru dealer.

I've got one of these:

 

http://www.scangauge.com/

 

It reads & clears the code everytime...at least it says it did. I hit "clear codes?" and the check engine light disappears for about a couple days and then returns with P0852. I will check the floor mats just in case. If I can't find anything obvious, I may have to take it to the dealer. The local dealer drives me nuts. I may have to drive 40 miles to the dealer I trust.

Perhaps what is going on with this is there are two problems and the lastest one couldn't show up until the switch was replaced. Hondasucks brought up a good point about the clutch pedal. Maybe the switch on it is having a problem. I suggest you check the operation of the switch using an ohmmeter to see if it is working like it should.

 

A note about clearing codes. When that is done it also clears the monitors and things have to be relearned in the ECU. If an IM test is due real soon after they are cleared it could cause the test to fail due to a lack of enough monitors being set.

Update

 

Checked all the connections on the outside, made sure the clutch pedal and associated switch was working as advertised, and threw my hands up in the air and went to the dealer I trust. Guess what? When I arrived, the CEL disappeared! I was about to throw things at my car .

 

The CEL came back as I drove away...so I returned.

 

Good news:

The new neutral safety switch that I just put on is defective. It tells the ECU that I am always in neutral no matter what.

The neutral safety switch that I bought online through Jamie, they are going to warranty, I just have to pay for 1/2 hour labor.

 

The only negative news is that I have to wait a fews days before the replacement switch arrives.

 

Thumbs up for Earl Duff Subaru in Harriman, TN. They always seems to make me a happy customer.