'00 Subey Outback, 2.5 non-turbo

I had a leak back there about 215,000 miles, noticed oil loss and mpg drop. replaced everything; clutch, new alloy plate, ~mar '08

now at 233k oil is leaking again and my guess is clutch is going as mileage is starting to drop. also some studdering in start from standstill once engine in Hot.

 

Any reason why this frikin thing is leaking again? other than user error?

Anyone else had this?

 

 

garth

Did you replace the rear main seal while you had the clutch out?(not that they are prone to leaking like the Seperator Plate)...Also are you sure its engine oil your seeing? There is a possiblity that the front input shaft seal for the trans is leaking...that could easily get on your clutch and damage it.... I would get under there, clean everything off really well, and drive it for a few days...than pop back under there and see what youve got.....it would be a shame to pull the trans (again) to find out something else is the problem....

Edited December 15, 200817 yr by EVOthis

We did change the rear main seal, a *************** to get in, but after ruining two, we got a system and third went straight in. altho I was assured by the guys in the dealer parts that those were never the culprit (they asked why I kept buying them!)

since the oil was low by about 2 quarts, I gotta figure it is the usual suspect, Oil Separator Plate! I did see now that it is much easier to move the engine forward than pull all the tranny etc back! live and learn. but if I find an 08 at the dealer, then I am using my IMBA discount and buying new. too many headaches for me. 0.0% for two years is the easy way out. 3 years of a constant problem with this one is long enuff, I give up.

Rear mains dont usually leak, but they dont like to be disturbed either. i bet its the rear main leaking again, they require some genlte handling to get them just right sometimes.

 

nipper

Had I done PROPER research, I would've known NOT to disturb it. Guess it's back to the tear apart.

thanks guys.

perhaps a stupid question, will I need to replace the clutch again? it has about 18k on it, but all that oil on it????

Had I done PROPER research, I would've known NOT to disturb it. Guess it's back to the tear apart.

thanks guys.

perhaps a stupid question, will I need to replace the clutch again? it has about 18k on it, but all that oil on it????

 

Maybe just the disc, wont know till you open it up. If its got oil on it, replace it.

 

nipper

Gotcha. when I get in I will reply

Two thoughts, it could be your rear main, or it could be the seperator plate. A: Did you update the sepreator plate with the metal one? B: did you use the updated allen head bolts? One will have lock tight on it, it goes on the first left hole that is not a through hole. C: Did you use "Ultra Grey" sylicon or equivilant and not some run of the mill kind. D: Did you replace the PCV valve at the same time? if not you may be creating an excessive engine pressure and thus a leak has sprung again.

Lastly if and when you seperate the engine/trans again and you find that it is the rear main, pull the seal and check around the crank shaft to make sure you have not scared the sealing surface from previous attmepts of removal and install. If you have you will need to perform a speedy sleeve repair before putting a new seal on. Hope this helps.

one more thought to add to MUGS reply. you have to know how far to put the rear main seal in. if its not put in correct, it will leak.

one more thought to add to MUGS reply. you have to know how far to put the rear main seal in. if its not put in correct, it will leak.

 

yup, hence the gentle touch.

 

nipper

one more thought to add to MUGS reply. you have to know how far to put the rear main seal in. if its not put in correct, it will leak.

 

but will be fine for 2 yrs?? and then leak? i thought thet leaked right away.

It has only been about 8 or 9 months since the OSP replace.

but almost 20k.

I don't think we replaced the pvc valve. is that an easy fix? and could it have gone bad when I overheated due to bad HG?

After pulling engine and replacing rear main, this time only putting it in to the edge of the bevel, and perma-texing the O-ring on that access port, which looks like it was leaking, I have put about 120 miles on it. so not enough time to really know anything.

The Oil separator plate looked intact and the permatex was not compromised. I think it was a combo of the rear main and the access port.

any way to tell if the pvc valve is bad?

Over 2000 miles since the rear main and rod access port re-do. We couldn't get an o-ring for the port so we used form-a-gasket around it. No choice other than wait a week on the o-ring.

So far so good.

BUT, getting that damn pesky P420 (ha) code. Low Catalytic Efficiency Bank 1

Any ideas? I have replaced the front and rear O2 sensors.

thanks

THe clutch was stellar. I guess the mileage drop was due to extreme cold and snow here. 3-4 mpg. it is back to 26ish.

PCV valves are a maintenance item that need to be replaced at regular intervals usually 60 to 80000 miles. if it has never been replaced, i would do so asap. they are cheap and easy to do. i have a 98 and it screws into the passenger side toward the center of the engine. the cats are probably tired at the kind of mileage you have.

PCV valves are a maintenance item that need to be replaced at regular intervals usually 60 to 80000 miles. if it has never been replaced, i would do so asap. they are cheap and easy to do..

 

they are so chaep i actually recomend doing them once a year on an older car.

 

 

nipper

cheap. where? I paid 120ish on a 20% discount at napa

cheap. where? I paid 120ish on a 20% discount at napa

 

 

for a PCV (positive crankse ventilation valve).

 

That is impossible, its only a 5-10.00 part. Its about 3-4" long and screws into the intake manifold, total time to install it 2 minutes.

 

 

nipper

pcv I did with a little carb cleaner. I was talking about the O2 sensor

pcv I did with a little carb cleaner. I was talking about the O2 sensor

 

well i said cheap then you said cheap.

 

And i just got a OE subaru O2 sensor from 1st subaru for 98.00 plus shipping.

 

 

nipper

front or rear? front was way more I think .

front or rear? front was way more I think .

 

 

front.

 

When i replaced the rear i used a 49.00 generic sensor.

 

 

nipper

do you have the website? and is that the problem? p420 again, I am not going to fix it unless it will get me better mileage! but then again, you are the man

do you have the website? and is that the problem? p420 again, I am not going to fix it unless it will get me better mileage! but then again, you are the man

 

 

My mileage took a huge dump when mine went bad. i lost almost 6mpg on the highway and 4-6 in the city. It has gotten much better, but i think i may need plugs now from the bad O2 sensor.

 

i got mine from www.1stsubaru.com. it was on sale, so i dont know if the prices (and mine is a 97) still apply. The alternative is you have a bad cat, but at that mileage, your going to need a O2 either way, so its not throwing money away.

 

nipper

so low cat eff bank one (1) is front or rear? O2 sensor