So i went and took a WA state emissions test this morning. I have yet to pass one of these things but am getting closer except for my idle emissions which seem to be getting worse. Below are 2 links to copies of the tests. The first is the one I took today and the second is from last year.

Everything else is great so what should I look into.

 

Some quick history,

pretty sure I have a bad head, head gasket fix has been used in the past, since then, radiator and thermostat replace, new plugs and wire, cap and rotor. I have been having issues with it holding an idle but played with the throttle cable a bit and all is better but not great. It fluctuates a bit at idle and sound like it misses every 3 or for seconds and dips. I seafoam'd it once and my numbers went crazy at a test everything got good again except the idle emissions.

 

Cheap and easy fix please or is it mechanic time? I don't wnat to drop in bunches of money I want it to run until it dies.

 

http://www.emissiontestwa.com/e/TestRecord.aspx?VIN=JF2AN53B8HE432867&TSDT=12/30/2008%2010:26:42%20AM - todays test

 

http://www.emissiontestwa.com/e/TestRecord.aspx?VIN=JF2AN53B8HE432867&TSDT=8/22/2007%209:20:48%20AM - last years 1st test

Had a simalar problem with my 85 GL hatch. Turned out to be a combination of the gas cap, and the backfire valve (probly not the correct name for it, but thats what we called it). Old gas cap, it passed with flying colors, except it failed on the gas cap itself. New gas cap, it failed.

We have emission testing here? Haha.

 

I'd track down that idle problem...If you google something like "high hc idle emissions" you'll find some sites that list out some things to check/usual suspects:

 

IDLE EMISSIONS

A vehicle that has sharply elevated HC or CO emissions at idle will usually have a noticeable misfire and/or rough idle. The most likely causes here would be:

• Fouled spark plug(s);
  
• Shorted spark plug wire(s) or defective plug boot(s);
  
• Vacuum leak;
  
• EGR valve stuck open; (acting like a huge vacuum leak)
  
• Burned exhaust valve;
  
• Misadjusted throttle body air/fuel mixture; or
  
• Misadjusted carburetor idle mixture.
  
• An extremely rich fuel condition can also cause elevated HC and CO at idle, while an extremely lean condition will only cause HC to rise abnormally. A leaky EGR valve can act like a vacuum leak and cause a lean misfire at idle.
  

I would be looking at your EGR valve. I would also see what your a/f ratio is. That alone can tell you a lot about how your car is running.

Try going to the emissions testing place on 6th Ave. South (just south of Spokane St). There's usually a van parked on the adjacent side street with a sign on it saying "Pass emissions or don't pay." This guy has been there for years and managed to get my car through every time (and I went through a succession of "beaters" during the early years of my three sons' learning to drive). He is state certified and has full emissions testing capability in his van. He will only tweak the settings to get it to pass; if he finds a problem with the car, he'll tell you what to get and install and then come back for a re-test. He doesn't charge you until you pass; last time I needed his services it was $45 plus tax. He's the real deal, and won't gouge you for his services. Just bring the most recent test result with you.

I know I posted this before numerous times, but only found one item where I started the post. The Brat had pretty similar numbers to what you were seeing and I had to change the idle jet. But the emissions gure tweaked it the rest of the way instead of my guessing and paying $15 more each time it failed.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22506&highlight=emissions+testing+guru

Out of curiosity how much does engine temp affect your emissions? When I put the new radiator in, one that is a fair bit larger than the old one and the new thermostat, also rated to open at a lower temp, my temp gauge now climbs maybe to 1/4 of the way up the dial. No matter how hard its driven, hills, highway, revving, it never climbs higher.

 

Just curious

Out of curiosity how much does engine temp affect your emissions? When I put the new radiator in, one that is a fair bit larger than the old one and the new thermostat, also rated to open at a lower temp, my temp gauge now climbs maybe to 1/4 of the way up the dial. No matter how hard its driven, hills, highway, revving, it never climbs higher.

 

Just curious

Hotter is better since the catalytic converter is more efficient at higher temps. Not sure how it affects the HC levels at idle. I would consider installing the stock temp thermostat (especially now in the wintertime). You can re-install the lower temp thermostat in the summer if you need it. It wouldn't cost you anything to ask the emissions guru that question if no one here has a better opinion than mine.

You have ignition or compression problems.

 

When the idle HC's are over 1000 PPM like your's are it's a sure sign that you have an idle "miss" - when the ignition fails to ignite the charge in the cylinder the entire amount of raw unburned fuel is expelled into the exhaust.

 

This is supported by your observation of a miss every three or four seconds and an unstable idle.

 

You need to find the source of your miss. Until you fix that you don't have a hope of passing.

 

This could be a weak spark, low compression, or a severely out of adjustment idle mixture. It could also be as simple as a vacuum leak - spray around with carb cleaner - the idle will change when you find the leak.

 

GD