92loyale

M10X1.25 Just had to buy some myself.

Check all your vacuum lines! That's where I would start.

Thank you all for your input! Seems as though when I put the engine back in and than the radiator I wasn't paying attention or something. The rad wasn't put all the way in the lower area. I unbolted it than got it into the correct place. Well, off to the store for some oil and a new filter. Shawn, were you by any chance in Colorado Springs over the summer at the pick and pull yard?

I'm going to go check that here in a few minutes. I just put the engine back in and than the rad. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Although when I pulled the rad out, there was no lower mounts. Just the two screws on the top the were holding it up. Oh, it did rub a hole in the filter.

So, tonight at work I notice I'm dripping some oil. Well, I look down and don't see anything unusual so I look under the car. My darn oil filter is rubbing on the electric fan bracket. What the heck could have caused this? The radiator hasn't moved. I;m thinking the tranny mounts? Maybe they went bad allowing the engine to tilt up? Not sure. Anyways, just out of curiosity I was online looking up parts, No listing for tranny mounts? ODD.... 1992 Loyale 5spd S/R.

Um, it's not just the internet. ALLDATA has it wrong too. I just had the same problem after putting my engine back in. Yup, would only kind of run, than back fire and well, nothing...So, yeah, don't trust everything you see. Always check for yourself!

:burnout:Well, Got it running warm! It's nice and toasty! I pulled the hoses, back flushed them, than hooked them back up. I than rinsed all the coolant out and filled it with water and a prestone radiator flush. It said to run the car 10 minutes but I ran and errand so about 30 minutes. Once I got home I started to drain it imediatly. I than opened up only one side of the heater core. I turned my compuressor down to 10PSI and started to blow air into the system. Good god you should have seen all the crap blowing out the radiator. I than filled it with more water and repeated that process once again. After that everything flowed very clean. So, I filled with a 50/50 mix. Yup, nice and HOT now! Thank You all for the help and Ideas!!!!

Well, Now that I've driven it a little more I think it's a combination of bad thermostat and clogged heater core. If I let the car just sit and run long enough it does warm up and stay fairly warm. I can turn the heat on and it's pretty darn hot. But, only for a minute or so. Than it starts to cool down. At this point the gauge doesn't really drop, not untill I actually start driving than the gauge really drops. So, I am thinking I need to "flush" out the core and get a new thermostat. Any best methods of flushing the heater core work better than others?

I will go cover it with a little cardboard right now and see if it helps tonight at work. If not than maybe it's the leaking air box? Maybe I should call my local Subi dealer and get a new one. I replaced it just a few weeks ago...Might have gotten a bad one.

Well, just got back in from washing and checking the blend door. It seems okay. Moves to it's fullest "open and closed" position with and without the cable attached. So, I checked the airbox behind the glove box. I believe it's leaking. I can feel cold air from there. Would it be cold air or warm air blowing out of there? The cold part kind of throws me off. If this is the case that I need to reseal it, how would I go about doing that? Thank you all for your help too....Oh, BTW. The hose between the thermostat is very warm...And the one from the lower part of the radiator to the pump is much cooler. Maybe that info could be important? Both heater core hoses are about the same temp and about the same temp as the thermo to radiator hose.

Well, I must say I have had a great experience with my EA82 Loyale. I have a 1992 With all the options minus a D/R trans. With 250,000 miles it's still going strong. Just last week I pulled the engine due to a cracked clutch fork. Other than that the thing has been awsome. I did what was suggested above and replaced all the seals, water pump, tune up items etc. Now, it's running even better. I average 28 MPG delivering pizza! I couldn't ask for more nor would I find anything out there better for my job. that kind of gas mileage, 4WD, the space it has, and just fun to drive out of anything else on the road. That being said. With 250K miles it still has to OG alternator ( think it's starting to go ) and the OG Fuji starter. Yeah, I was a little supprised to find this out as I'm the second owner and with that many miles.

So....as some of you may know I just pulled the engine on my 92 Loyale S/R 4WD 5 SPD. I thought it was the clutch....Well not quite....The fork cracked. Anyways, before and still now, I don't have much heat. I even took the mechanical fan off and left it off! So, I'm not sure why? I tested the hoses going into the and out of the heater core. They are about the same temp. with the heater fan on and off. If the car just sits and runs forever the electric fan will switch on and off. I don't think the heater core is plugged. I say this because as I'm driving down the road the gauge goes down to bairly above the mark after the C. I touch the radiator and it is cool after a drive too....It only gets "HOT" after it sits and runs for sometime. So, any ideas? It does have a new thermostat, which seems to be working?@?!! All new coolant and oil....SO, any ideas? Sorry this is so long. Trying to cover everything.

I would have to say pass as well! Just pulled the oil pan and valve covers on my 260K EA82 and no sign of any kind of metal shaving what so ever. I was actually a little supprised but I guess using Mobil oil and filter every 5K miles might have something to do with that. I would find a different engine! Could be some metal from bearings which would be real bad!!!!

Well got the engine pulled....It's sitting a stand right now as I'm figuring I'm going to go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. Well, the clutch actually still looks okay. That fork snapped!!! :mad: So, I have one on the way from http://www.subarupartsforyou.com Great web site. You could damn near replace your entire Subie at this site....Anyways, Now.....I'm just woundering, should I say heck with it and go ahead and replace the clutch as well. It still looks good! And doesn't slip at all....What do you all think?

And these dimensions are the same as my clutch for my 92 Loyale..... 225MM 1" shaft 24 spline etc. etc. etc. So, what u are saying is that an EJ clutch would be the same as a 4WD ea?

I would be looking at your EGR valve. I would also see what your a/f ratio is. That alone can tell you a lot about how your car is running.

That sheet shows the uncorrected numbers....What's the correction figures and, the corrected HP and TQ number look like?

Thank you for your help! I didn't even think about just unbolting it and moving the A/C out of the way. I can do the clutch without instuction that part is easy. Heck last clutch I did was on an old Volvo 244. So, no problems there. I guess more than anything, am just looking for the easiest way to do it. Oh, it is 4WD and I can't just vent the A/C and recharge it. I'm have my EPA 609 so if I get caught doing something like that it's a $10,000 fine! YUP. So, yeah not doing that any time soon. So, now it's just a matter of going by way of engine or trans removal...Thinking since my garage is small that engine would be best....Less busting my head on everything around me...

About to dive into replacing my clutch. I have used to search to no avail. So, woundering if anyone knows where a good write up for this is. I'm thinking about going the route of sliding the motor up as I don't feel like evacuating the A/C to remove the engine. Besides Suprisingly, my EA82 doesn't leak! Just had it resealed last year. But, the guys how owned it when that was done didn't replace the clutch while there. SO, any help write ups, or whatever would be much appreciated! Of course if anyone is in Colorado Springs near me maybe some beer for an extra set of hands would be awsome too.

After you check out the Dissy check fuel! Make sure you're getting the correct amount of fuel!

Looks like Coil wires to me as well. Positive negative and RPM pickup. I could be wrong but, sure looks like it to me.

I've been looking on ebay....Cheapest one I find is about 125.00 with shipping. The cheaper ones are for the Fwd. mine is 4wd. Just wish it wasn't -10 outside! Guess I'll just have to brave the cold.

It stopped working before the cable was replaced. Reason I replaced it was because I was thinking it must have been stretched (the old one). So, I put on a new cable, adjusted it according to Subaru...Still nothing. It slightly disengages but not enough even with the cable "over adjusted" so, I'm just thinking maybe the fingures on the pressure plate could be bad, bent, wore off...etc. Had that happen on my Volvo 240. The throwout bearing wore the "fingures" on the pressure plate to the point where it wouldn't dissengage. Just a thought.

I have not done anything yet to confirm however. After replacing the cable, it will not disengage EVER. I can put the car in gear, start it and drive away. No problems there. I can even shift it once it's moving by matching the RPM to the next gear. NO slipage what so ever. Well, I'm guessing it is the pressure plate has gone bad. No big deal last clutch I did on my Volvo was the same thing. Clutch plate good but pressure plate bad. Anyways, I'm thinking about go at it so I can get my Subaru back on the road. Of course it's only 14 F outside today so not really wanting to. So, if I decide a clutch is what needs to be replaced, where would you all reccomend? Unfortunalty don't have goobs of money and most places around here want 240++ for a kit. I've been looking online and found a few. I know my clutch is the 225mm (8 7/8) 1 inch 24 spline. RIGHT? 1992 Loyale 1.8L 4WD. Any other options out there? how about something from a different subaru? maybe something like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-01-SUBARU-IMPREZA-1-8L-2-2L-EJ18-EJ22-NEW-CLUTCH-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a15Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem350132633882QQitemZ350132633882QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

So, I graduate college in 2 weeks. My final project for my very last class is to build a portfolio on a vehicle of my choice. Well, I chose to do one on my '92 Loyale 4WD. So, in this "portfolio" I have to include information on how everything works in the car. The ECM, engine, trans, fuel system, emissions system, etc. I have plenty of information that I have got from ALLDATA however, some other info would be great. Things I could be missing, or something you all might feel should be included. They types of this and that...Would be great! Well, thanks in advance for the help. BTW, yes help from any source on this project is exceptable. Online references, expert people, and all the rest. So, if you all have any good stuff let me know. K thanks!!! I'll owe you all one!