Hey guys Ive been searching the forum for my answer or something to point me in the right direction but nothing I read looks like it may relate to my problem. Anyhow I have a 86 GL 10 turbo 4x4 it has 136 k on it I bought it a few months ago for 300$. Ive gone through and done some basics New airfilter,fuel filter, and plugs. it was running great for a while but now after it warms up the rpms will flatten out and it will die. You have to let it sit of a few minutes and it will start again but once you drive it a mile or so it will do the same thing. I thought it was an EGR problem but the EGR is ok. Any Ideas on what it could be??

 

Thanks

Scuzz you need to find out what it's missing

 

fuel

or

spark

 

My guess is fuel pump or it's relay but

without some detective work

it's real hard to say.

as

Coils are also known to do this.

Is your catalytic converter possibly plugged / seriously restricted?

Has the throttle plate stop screw been messed with? It should have white paint on it, look to see if it's been disturbed.

 

Someone may have tried to turn the idle down, and if you close that too far, there isn't the proper amount of air passing through.

 

It is also possible that the idle air passage is clogged. Look into the throttle body, and just below where the throttle plate closes is a small hole. See if it is obstructed.

 

 

But skip is right, you need to figure out wether your losing fuel, spark, or possibly air.

 

Just to clarify, will it just not idle after warmup? Or does it just die while driving?

also, which engine?? and trans?? and pics??, and outside temp!

 

fuel pump relay

 

mine does not turn on when too cold

jumper wire takes care of the problem

Its the 1.8 or something manual trans. its getting fuel and getting spark it cuts out kind of like a vehicle would if you poured water into the Dist. then after its sits for about 10 minutes you have to hold the gas in to get it started. I let it Idle for 3 hours today it idles fine then when you get in to drive it spudders and dies.

turbo, mpfi, spfi, carb, ea82, ea81, ea71

you need to be more specific, as anything is possible

 

try disconnecting maf eilctrical connector, if you use one

you may have a leak on the intake side after the maf

or weak fuel system, restrictions, crud

turbo, mpfi, spfi, carb, ea82, ea81, ea71

you need to be more specific, as anything is possible

 

you need to read.

 

First post says 86 GL-10 Turbo.

 

He's got an EA82T, MPFI.

 

 

 

Scuzz, You need to read the codes in you're ECU. find the 2 black connectors under the dash, and hook them toghether. this will make hte small LED light

on the ECU flash a code to you.

 

You can find all the details by search, but read the codes.

 

If you have no codes or just Crank or Cam codes, it is likely a relay or maybe you're coil. Although a bad distributor would also be possible.

 

If there is a code for an injector, you likely have a dying resitor(all 4 are supplied from the same 12v), or other break in the FI circuit.

Great thanks Ill see what I find

you need to read.

 

First post says 86 GL-10 Turbo. He's got an EA82T, MPFI.

 

Scuzz, You need to read the codes in you're ECU. find the 2 black connectors under the dash, and hook them toghether. this will make hte small LED light

on the ECU flash a code to you.

 

 

As I was saying: need to know

for example my brown '86 gl-10 turbo wagon 5spd s/r pb 4x4

has ea81 engine and radiator with ea82 intake and carb

and the only codes it has is 12 and 14

 

the GREEN test connector does NOT need to be connected to read codes!!

Ah Mr. Subiemech?? you say

"for example my brown '86 gl-10 turbo wagon 5spd s/r pb 4x4

has ea81 engine and radiator with ea82 intake and carb"

 

So you have a carbed turbo wagon Aye??

Sumtin is very wrong with this picture.

 

And you go on to say

the GREEN test connector does NOT need to be connected to read codes!!

 

Gloyale did not say anything about GREEN test connectors.

he did say

you need to read.

No connectors = u-check only flashes a code if check engine light is on.

 

Green connectors = D check or *test* mode, kinduv a self exam by the computer of the components. Again only outputs active codes.

 

BLACK connectors (which is what I said int eh first place) will output STORED past codes.

 

The reason this is important is that the code will not be shown unless the engine is running in either of the first 2 modes. 2 modes, and if it ran, there would be no code. Catch 22 situation.

 

So to read stored codes, use the Black connectors.

 

To clear codes hook up both sets (green and black) and then start and run the engine til the CEL flashes.

Ah Mr. Subiemech?? you say

"for example my brown '86 gl-10 turbo wagon 5spd s/r pb 4x4

has ea81 engine and radiator with ea82 intake and carb"

 

So you have a carbed turbo wagon Aye??

Sumtin is very wrong with this picture.

 

And you go on to say

the GREEN test connector does NOT need to be connected to read codes!!

 

Gloyale did not say anything about GREEN test connectors.

he did say

you need to read.

 

 

nothing is messed up with my car, it's simply a matter of stating what it is!

digidash, trip computer, cruise, etc. all works very nicely with the way it is set up

 

since these are legos, it seemed necessary to know for sure what combination the op is using

 

U-check, green connectors DISCONNECTED will display ACTIVE codes, ONLY the MPFI componets NECESSARY for START-UP and DRIVE are DIAGNOSED

the lamp flashes the trouble code which corresponds to the faulty part

 

No connectors = u-check only flashes a code if check engine light is on.

 

Green connectors = D check or *test* mode, kinduv a self exam by the computer of the components. Again only outputs active codes.

 

BLACK connectors (which is what I said int eh first place) will output STORED past codes.

 

The reason this is important is that the code will not be shown unless the engine is running in either of the first 2 modes. 2 modes, and if it ran, there would be no code. Catch 22 situation.

 

So to read stored codes, use the Black connectors.

 

To clear codes hook up both sets (green and black) and then start and run the engine til the CEL flashes.

 

There are NO BLACK CONNECTORS to READ STRORED CODES on the EARLY systems 85-86

there is also NO MEMORY

 

codes WILL display WITHOUT engine running, in BOTH U-check AND D-check

 

 

 

 

information from '85 service manuals and my car!

pic is of the wires under dash

green connector connected

 

the red wire with blue diode is a mystery

 

please cite your sources of info!

Is this another case of the wires being inside the engine compartment, on the drivers side next to the firewall? I know that's where they are on my EA82, but it's a 93.

Is this another case of the wires being inside the engine compartment, on the drivers side next to the firewall? I know that's where they are on my EA82, but it's a 93.

 

 

not on these critters, there is one large black connector and one large brown connector used for line checks