Hello everyone.

 

I have seen dozens of posts about wheel bearings and I have most of my info, but I am wondering if I will need to get a hub tamer kit if I want to replace rear wheel bearings on my 88 GL 4x4 Wagon or if I can get away with out it (and not have to mess with brake lines or an alignment)?

 

Side note - there is a great post here that is a photo essay on how to do the fronts:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76491&highlight=%27rear+wheel+bearing%27

 

Dean

You won't need a hub tamer on one of those. I've done them before, they are actually pretty easy and self explanatory. But you will need to remove the brakes. But again, not too hard.

Thats what I needed to hear. Thanks a bunch!!

Thats what I needed to hear. Thanks a bunch!!

 

no prob! If you run into any problems feel free to ask!!

Well...I did run into an issue. I got the hub off, then I got the drum off but I could not figure out what to next...? I tried punching out the axle pin that is closest to the wheel in hopes to take off the axle but it doesn't look like it comes off that way. Then I tried to punch out the other axle pin and no way...I need the right punch to get that one out. Am I going down the right road here..? It seems as though I do have to remove that axle to get at the beasring assembly.

 

Dean

Well...I did run into an issue. I got the hub off, then I got the drum off but I could not figure out what to next...? I tried punching out the axle pin that is closest to the wheel in hopes to take off the axle but it doesn't look like it comes off that way. Then I tried to punch out the other axle pin and no way...I need the right punch to get that one out. Am I going down the right road here..? It seems as though I do have to remove that axle to get at the beasring assembly.

 

Dean

 

yes you need to remove the rear cv axle to get to the bearing. You need to punch out the pin, and remove the rear axle, so that you can remove the stub shaft that goes through the hub.

Thats what I thought. Which pin? The one I couldn't get out?

Thats what I thought. Which pin? The one I couldn't get out?

 

There is a pin just behind the rear hub and then another that is closer to the rear diff. Honestly either one will work. But you will also have to lower your rear diff to get the axle off. Then once the rear diff is lowered and the pin is out, the axle should slide off the splines and then you'll be able to use a wood block and hammer the shaft out of the hub

Ok, that sounds do-able, thanks a bunch!! I can't believe how fast you reply to these questions...it's outstanding.

Ok, that sounds do-able, thanks a bunch!! I can't believe how fast you reply to these questions...it's outstanding.

 

Hope it helps! And good luck with it!

doesn't the bearing retainer need to be knocked out too? it's a large "castle nut-ish" kind of thing on the back of the hub. once the axle is out i believe you have to unthread that. there's a "special tool" of course, but it's not needed. just use a punch to work it around until it spins loose. should be obvious once you get in there and look.

You should be able to remove the lower shock bolt and pull the lower arm down enough to slide the axle off of the stub without having to mess with the diff :-\

yeah, you can get the nut out with a punch, be REALLY carefull of the threads.

you do NOT need to drop the rear diff to get the axle off. just unbolt the shock from the control arm, and pry it down. that will give you enough play to pull it off the stub.

 

the project is fairly involved. especially if you're in a part of the world where rust is an issue. the bearing retainer can be removed without the tool, but can also ruin your day if it doesn't want to. the pin socket and an impact wrench makes it a 7 second project. I'll never do it again without.

 

if yours has the one-piece outer race (your new bearing probably does...), it'll come out pretty easy. if it's the 3-piece, the last piece to come out is pretty narrow, make absolute sure it comes out straight, or it can get jammed. an air hammer can also come in handy.

 

 

 

other than that, pull the axle, and brakes. unscrew the retainer from the backside of the control arm. give a few taps on the end of the spindle to separate the 2 halves of the inner race. a bench vice can be a big help when getting the other half off the spindle. get the outer race out (the inner race, bearings and a large socket work well). then re-assemble.

Yeah you can remove the lower shock bolt too, but I've always just removed the two bolts for the rear diff and lowered it enough to take the axle off. And then yes you need to use a punch and hammer and remove the lock ring in the back of the hub. I figured he'd see that himself. I live where the rust is terrible and mine was quite rusty, but I was still able to get everything apart without much trouble. Yes the bearing race will most likely be a three piece deal. So you'll have to drive them out from the outside individually.

Edited January 30, 200917 yr by bratman18

Amazing. You people are great. I will update you all on my progress when I get back at it tomorrow. This is my daily driver, I live in Vancouver BC, so we don't get much salt, with the exception of this years snow accumulations and so far all of the nuts and bolts have been fairly easy to remove.

Well, I spent 10 hours on Saturday trying to get my rear axle off of the spline. And its still there. I think that the two pieces have become one because I had the wrecking bar on it, smacking it with a hammer, lower shock bolt off, and a jack pressing down for clearance (I even tried different heights). I even put a C-clamp on and hit it around...it will not move and I destroyed the clamp. The torch idea is in the back of my mind but I will have to buy a fire extinguisher first.

 

I could only get the tire side dritf pin out of the axle...could that be it? If so is a 3/16 punch the correct one?

 

Also, I damaged the softer piece of metal on the wheel end of the axle...the part that is kind of a cup that snugs up and rotates over the inside of where the bearing is...does that mean I have to get a whole new axle too?

 

The one positive note is that I successfully replaced my brake shoes during the process, which turned out to be really easy and self adjusting.

 

Dean

No you don't need a new axle because of that little piece. It's a dust/grass shield. But what about getting diff side of the axle off? try lowering the diff like I said before and then removing that end of the axle of the splines of the diff. then pull the whole axle out of the hub.

 

Well, I spent 10 hours on Saturday trying to get my rear axle off of the spline. And its still there. I think that the two pieces have become one because I had the wrecking bar on it, smacking it with a hammer, lower shock bolt off, and a jack pressing down for clearance (I even tried different heights). I even put a C-clamp on and hit it around...it will not move and I destroyed the clamp. The torch idea is in the back of my mind but I will have to buy a fire extinguisher first.

 

I could only get the tire side dritf pin out of the axle...could that be it? If so is a 3/16 punch the correct one?

 

Also, I damaged the softer piece of metal on the wheel end of the axle...the part that is kind of a cup that snugs up and rotates over the inside of where the bearing is...does that mean I have to get a whole new axle too?

 

The one positive note is that I successfully replaced my brake shoes during the process, which turned out to be really easy and self adjusting.

 

Dean

I think that might be my only option at this point. I would have tried it but I have never taken it down. I was just kinda scared of breaking something...after all I am still learning.

 

Cool news about the grass shield. Thanks Bratman.

I think that might be my only option at this point. I would have tried it but I have never taken it down. I was just kinda scared of breaking something...after all I am still learning.

 

Cool news about the grass shield. Thanks Bratman.

 

yeah it's very easy to take the rear diff sown to remove the axle. Just undo the two nuts on the oxbow, and then I just flex the oxbow out and off the two bolts. Then it just hangs there. Then if you have to, you can remove the other bolt that goes through the bushing mount attached to the rear crossmember. You might have to support it a little though so that it won't pull the axles apart. Good luck!!

Ok, I think I get it. So would it make sense to knock out a pin from the other side axle so I don't warp the other side?

Ok, I think I get it. So would it make sense to knock out a pin from the other side axle so I don't warp the other side?

 

You shouldn't have to as long as you lower the rear diff. That's why you lower the rear diff, so you'll be able to get the axle out

There is a pin just behind the rear hub and then another that is closer to the rear diff. Honestly either one will work. But you will also have to lower your rear diff to get the axle off. Then once the rear diff is lowered and the pin is out, the axle should slide off the splines and then you'll be able to use a wood block and hammer the shaft out of the hub

 

He doesn't need to remove the rear diff!

 

Simply unbolt the lower shock mount, and lever the trailing arm downwards. this will give you enough room to slode one end of the axle off. Definately drive out the roll pin in the axle that is on the hub end. The diff end can stay in place.

He doesn't need to remove the rear diff!

 

Simply unbolt the lower shock mount, and lever the trailing arm downwards. this will give you enough room to slide one end of the axle off. Definitely drive out the roll pin in the axle that is on the hub end. The diff end can stay in place.

 

He already tried that! And I assume because of rust, he couldn't get it off the outer splines. So I was suggesting that he try the outer splines. I was just trying to make it easier for him to get it off.

Yes, GLoyale...I had the shock bolt off and the lower arm down...up and down, as low as it would go, in several different positions with the hub end pin out. I had a jack in between the arm and the body to move it as well. I think Bratman is right. It must be rusted on because no matter how much force I used (big pry bar, hammer, c-clamp) it didn't even budge in any position. I kept shinning the light through the pinhole to see if it moved and no luck whatsoever. At this point I am willing to try anything, including dropping the diff. Will I have to get an alignment if I don't get the bolts back on the diff in the same position? I think I saw a post about that.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Dean