Gloyale Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Check the TPS operation. Set the idle switch and make sure resitance change is smooth throughout the range. Or just hook it to a datastream scanner that will let you observe TPS output while drivng. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 If the neutral switch and wiring seems okay, I'd suggest next looking for intake vacuum leaks. Check around the IACV, intake manifold, and throttle body, including gaskets (something not snugged down?) and hoses (cracked/disconnected). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I had the same problem (P1507 Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe)) with my car and the exact symtoms with my car as you do with your car. Hold on to your wallet if your by a new one. They are very pricey, like $320 is what I paid for mine. After it was replaced, all was good again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacide Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 I had the same problem (P1507 Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe)) with my car and the exact symptoms with my car as you do with your car. Hold on to your wallet if your by a new one. They are very pricey, like $320 is what I paid for mine. After it was replaced, all was good again. After you replaced the? idle control system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 After you replaced the? idle control system? Yes. And it went all of the sudden (damn mouse). It is located on the passenger side of the thottle body and has like a 1" hose running to it from the airbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacide Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Yes. And it went all of the sudden (damn mouse). It is located on the passenger side of the thottle body and has like a 1" hose running to it from the airbox. is there a way to test and determine definitely bad? thanks for the help btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 (edited) is there a way to test and determine definitely bad? thanks for the help btw One way to definately tell is if the car stalls out after going down the road at highway speed and fully warmed up. I always put the car in nuetral as I come to a stop, and it would stall every time , to hard on the clutch and gearbox to downshift through the gears in my opinion.You also said there is no power (that would be the fail safe mode) Does it feel as if only half the engine is running? That would be a big clue. You could clear the code and see if it pops back up after you drive it some more. Edited February 18, 2009 by crash321 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 (edited) There is no part known as the 'idle control system'. The word 'system' is used in the P1507 code definition because it's comprised of more than one part. A major component is the IACV (Idle Air Control [solenoid] Valve), which is perhaps what crash123 is talking about. However, before assuming it's the culprit, looking for intake vacuum leaks and improper connections as previously mentioned might be prudent. If no leaks, etc., are found, then cleaning of the IACV and throttle body, perhaps using SeaFoam, might do the trick before getting into replacement of expensive parts. While you're at it, cleaning the PCV could be worthwhile as well. Edited February 19, 2009 by OB99W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Please do go to the dealer for that part, post on things wanted and look on ebay. I bet you could get the whole thing for under 40 bucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacide Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 Well, I had her all buttoned up, put about 500 miles on the new engine just running around town. We took off last Thursday to go down to California. About 20 miles out of town we lost heat, then looked down, heating up like crazy! I let her cool down, took off the cap and poured in some water. The overflow was full of antifreeze and not draining. IT looked like some debris was floating around in there too. We took it slow and limped her back into town. (We took the vaca in our old caravan and made it fine) Back to town, we thought maybe we had a bad thermostat, might have come defective in the box?...Well, we replaced with a new one, still same heat up. Flushed the radiator a few times, still heating up. Did I get a lemon engine from Attarco? Head gasket blown already? Anything else it could be? I'm freaking out that they are going to screw me on the warranty. They say there are 4 heat tabs (pewter, dime-sized things affized to the engine that will tell if I overheated it or not) and I can't find any of them. When installed we replaced everything: waterpump, thermostat, timing belt etc. Please help! Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 The original engine failure might have partially clogged the radiator (the debris could be from that) -- flow testing it (as opposed to just flushing) might tell you if that's what's going on. If not, unfortunately the symptoms you've reported are typical of bad HGs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 first verify you don't have a leak. most likely you got a motor with a bad head gasket. buying a used EJ25 is a fun way to gamble, at least you have *something* to show for it. good luck with the warranty, hope they pull through on that. when i bought a JDM motor it too came with blown head gaskets. they offered me new head gaskets...just the gaskets that is. wow, how nice. i'm stuck doing the labor. i'd rather buy the gaskets and get the labor for free. i never recommend used EJ25's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Did the radiator get filled and bled? You need a spill free funnel and to run the car until the radiator fans cycle on and off once before trying to drive it. If you didnt do that you have an air pocket in the cooling system somewhere not allowing the coolant to flow properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Did the radiator get filled and bled? he said he put 500 miles on it so i'm assuming it's not an air pocket, but good thing to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 he said he put 500 miles on it so i'm assuming it's not an air pocket, but good thing to make sure. I made the same assumption about lack of an air pocket, since it was running okay for 500 miles. I'm also assuming (for the same reason) that the thermostat is an OEM Subaru unit (some of the aftermarket ones aren't up to the job), and that the radiator cap is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacide Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 We replaced the radiator cap, but used a NAPA thermostat, (brand escapes me) Should this be checked first? Any way to isolate the thermostat as the problem instead of HG? (Keep in mind I did replace the thermostat initially during swap, then overheated, and tried a new one (both NAPA)) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc526 Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 One way to test the thermostat is to remove it from the car and place it into a pot of boiling water. It should open up when boiling and close when you remove it from the pot and place it in open air to cool. Remove it from the pot with tongs of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 One way to test the thermostat is to remove it from the car and place it into a pot of boiling water. It should open up when boiling and close when you remove it from the pot and place it in open air to cool. Remove it from the pot with tongs of course. well you ned a thermometer there to make sure its openeing at the right temp too. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 We replaced the radiator cap, but used a NAPA thermostat, (brand escapes me) Should this be checked first? Any way to isolate the thermostat as the problem instead of HG? (Keep in mind I did replace the thermostat initially during swap, then overheated, and tried a new one (both NAPA)) See this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84657 . Just verifying opening temp doesn't cover the entire issue. A partially restricted radiator in combination with a possibly-not-to-spec thermostat might cause what you experienced (although it still has the earmarks of bad HGs). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacide Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 thanks for the info, will check out and report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacide Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 would there be any problem doing the HG on this engine even though it is a JDM? Any specific place I should purchase from? any difference in HG sets for domestic vs. jdm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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