March 2, 200917 yr While checking all the vacuum lines on the 93 Loyal, I pulled the vacuum line to the transmission regulator?, if that is what it is. Any way, there is a restrictor in that vacuum line. It looks like it reduces the diameter of the line down to about 1mm, and is made of bronze. Is that restrictor required? m It does shift up pretty early and hard to kick down.
March 3, 200917 yr Any way, there is a restrictor in that vacuum line. It looks like it reduces the diameter of the line down to about 1mm, and is made of bronze. Is that restrictor required? m It does shift up pretty early and hard to kick down. Hmmm, I've been thinking about putting a restrictor in that line. All 5 of the 3ATs I've had shift up too early, always have. An OEM vacuume modulator will make it a little better than an aftermarket. Running with the line disconnected will make it up shift very late / higher RPM. Somewhere in between would be nicer. There is a kickdown switch mounted on the gas pedal, up under the dash. Check to see if it is getting activated when the pedal is floored. I have been shifting them with the lever for years, so they shift when I want. When I want to downshift to slow down, I shift the lever down 1, tap the gas, and it goes into the lower gear. When I want to get more power to climb a hill, let off the gas slightly, move the lever down 1, hit the gas after the shift happens. With practice, these "manual" shifts are much smoother than the auto left to it's own devices. I'd probably have manual transmissions, but for 3 reasons, in no particular order: 1. Wife can't do manual 2. Left knee bothers me after a few shifts. 3. Manuvering a trialer, and in tight places is much easier with an auto.
March 3, 200917 yr Author The kick down switch seems to working okay when the pedal is full down. I wonder if removing that restrictor would allow it to kick down with less than full throttle. It seems as though right now it takes an awful lot of vacuum to kick it down. BTW, what kind of trailer do you pull with your Loyale?
March 3, 200917 yr Hmmm, I've been thinking about putting a restrictor in that line. All 5 of the 3ATs I've had shift up too early, always have. An OEM vacuume modulator will make it a little better than an aftermarket. Running with the line disconnected will make it up shift very late / higher RPM. Somewhere in between would be nicer. quote] They are tunable to some degree.Subaru has 11 different actuating rods available 36mm-33.5mm. #s 3192 X0F00 to 3192 X0F10 in decending order.
March 4, 200917 yr I wonder if removing that restrictor would allow it to kick down with less than full throttle. It seems as though right now it takes an awful lot of vacuum to kick it down. BTW, what kind of trailer do you pull with your Loyale? It is actually lack of vacuume that would kick it down, or delay an upshift. But even when I ran it with the line off, it really didn't kick down due to vacuume only much differently - at least that I noticed. It is easy enough to try, just pull the hose off & plug the end to the intake. Won't kill anything for a short time, anyways. It won't want to upshift to 3rd until around 35MPH with light throttle. I have a small flatbed trailer. I have had about 1000Lbs on it maximum. Drive with longer distance ahead, downshift for engine brakeing. Heck, I used the trailer with my 1976 1400 & 1978 1600 also.
March 10, 200917 yr Author I have a small flatbed trailer. I have had about 1000Lbs on it maximum. Drive with longer distance ahead, downshift for engine brakeing. Heck, I used the trailer with my 1976 1400 & 1978 1600 also. Did you build your own hitch and harness? If store bought, where did you get them?
March 10, 200917 yr The hitch on my EA82s I built. http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/hitch.html The lighting on the trailer is mached to the car, so no converter box is needed.
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