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drew440

1993 Subaru Loyale No Spark!

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I checked all fuses and fusible links, coil ohms, and battery ground. The car has 28,000 original miles. The T-belts are perfect. I have no CEL light when I turn the ignition to the on position. The engine cranks over fine. ?????? I did have the CEL on prior to the no spark situation. I did my run around stuff and stopped at the DMV. When I came out and started the car it died. I restarted it 3 or 4 times before it stayed running and went directly home. Once home I started it again and it died before I got out of the driveway. Played with the fuses and such and just for kicks I hit the key and it took right off. Backed it up to the garage and shut it off. Went to restart the car and noticed I had no CEL at all and car would not fire up. I did the usual gas/spark check. I need advice. No light coming from ECU either. I would really appreciate some help with this problem as this is our primary vehicle. Thanks.

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It's either a fuse (check fuse 5 for the horn, see if horn works)

 

Or it is you're ignition relay. It's the on;y brown relay up under the dash, and it has 6 wires not 4.

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It's either a fuse (check fuse 5 for the horn, see if horn works)

 

Or it is you're ignition relay. It's the on;y brown relay up under the dash, and it has 6 wires not 4.

 

How do you get to it. I took off the panel and dropped the ECU out of the way. I see a brown plastic (small) box on top of the mounting bracket for the steering column. Is this it?

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How do you get to it. I took off the panel and dropped the ECU out of the way. I see a brown plastic (small) box on top of the mounting bracket for the steering column. Is this it?

 

Yes that is it.

 

But I emplore you to check fuse 5, and all the fusible links near the battery as well first. I haven't seen many ignition relays actually fail

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Yes that is it.

 

But I emplore you to check fuse 5, and all the fusible links near the battery as well first. I haven't seen many ignition relays actually fail

 

I checked fuse 5 it controls the horn and the flashers along with the clock. Took the fuse out and checked voltage. Its perfect along with the fuse. I checked the fusible links and voltage is perfect as well. I must make note that the clock hasn't been working since I got the car. It would just be a series of lines and then ceased to function at all. The car is really like new. I am quite perplexed by the entire episode.

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I checked all fuses and fusible links, coil ohms, and battery ground. The car has 28,000 original miles. The T-belts are perfect. I have no CEL light when I turn the ignition to the on position. The engine cranks over fine. ?????? I did have the CEL on prior to the no spark situation. I did my run around stuff and stopped at the DMV. When I came out and started the car it died. I restarted it 3 or 4 times before it stayed running and went directly home. Once home I started it again and it died before I got out of the driveway. Played with the fuses and such and just for kicks I hit the key and it took right off. Backed it up to the garage and shut it off. Went to restart the car and noticed I had no CEL at all and car would not fire up. I did the usual gas/spark check. I need advice. No light coming from ECU either. I would really appreciate some help with this problem as this is our primary vehicle. Thanks.

 

SPFI right?

 

In no paticular order:

Fusible links,ignition switch,fuses 5&11,IG relay,wiring,and ECU for the sake of completeness.

 

Probably fuses or links.

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SPFI right?

 

In no paticular order:

Fusible links,ignition switch,fuses 5&11,IG relay,wiring,and ECU for the sake of completeness.

 

Probably fuses or links.

 

Yes it is the TBI or throttle body type fuel system. I thank you. I will concentrate my efforts on these systems.

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I checked fuse 5 it controls the horn and the flashers along with the clock.

 

It also supplies *all the time* power to the ECU.

 

Does you're horn work? Flashers? you need to make sure that cicuit is getting good power.

 

The fact that you're CEL isn't lighting at all means you have no power on that circuit to the ECU

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SPFI right?

 

In no paticular order:

Fusible links,ignition switch,fuses 5&11,IG relay,wiring,and ECU for the sake of completeness.

 

Probably fuses or links.

 

you mean 12 for SPFI

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All 3,actually.

 

FSM lists fuse 12

 

Fuse 11 is for Fuel pump relay and ignition coil. Not part of ECU power.

 

Now if he had no Fuel, he would check that. But he has no power to the ECU.

Edited by Gloyale
editing for further investigation

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FSM lists fuse 12

 

Fuse 11 is for Fuel pump relay and ignition coil. Not part of ECU power.

 

Now if he had no Fuel, he would check that. But he has no power to the ECU.

 

Incorrect,look more carefully,fuse 11 also feeds pin 27 of the ECU.

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Incorrect,look more carefully,fuse 11 also feeds pin 27 of the ECU.

 

No ity doesn't.

 

Pin 27 is supplied with power from the ignition relay, from fuse 5.

 

you are wrong dude......sorry

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No ity doesn't.

 

Pin 27 is supplied with power from the ignition relay, from fuse 5.

 

you are wrong dude......sorry

 

You`re right.My bad.Got lost in the maze!

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You`re right.My bad.Got lost in the maze!

 

Easy to do, both wires are Black w/White stripe. Run very close in the diagrahm

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It also supplies *all the time* power to the ECU.

 

Does you're horn work? Flashers? you need to make sure that cicuit is getting good power.

 

The fact that you're CEL isn't lighting at all means you have no power on that circuit to the ECU

 

I went to every fuse in the block and made sure the voltage was perfect. I even took every fuse out and replaced them with new ones even though they were perfect. I took all of the fusible links out one at a time and inspected them and they were perfect as well. Horn and flashers work perfectly. How do I test the ECU? Could it just go bad? I'm beginning to look in that direction as everything else I've tried to test is perfect. Could someone tell me what is up with the little screw in the rotor button! Who the heck designed that little jewel! A complete blind set up in that! I ended up stripping the screw trying to put it back in and when I called the parts store they said the new rotor doesn't come with a new little screw! I guess I need to walk away from this for a little while and do some brain storming on what could be the cause of this malfunction on an otherwise perfect little car.

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I went to every fuse in the block and made sure the voltage was perfect. I even took every fuse out and replaced them with new ones even though they were perfect. I took all of the fusible links out one at a time and inspected them and they were perfect as well. Horn and flashers work perfectly.

 

Okay. So pull out that little brown relay.

 

Hold the relay in you're hand, and turn on the key. You should feel a click.

 

Then check for power on the Red/blue wire and the White wires. Should be 12v with key on.

 

IF not, replace relay.

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FSM lists fuse 12

 

Fuse 11 is for Fuel pump relay and ignition coil. Not part of ECU power.

 

Now if he had no Fuel, he would check that. But he has no power to the ECU.

 

Come to think of it I do not hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the on position. Is it already primed as I have tried to start it several times? I did the little test with putting a little fuel in the throttle body and then trying to fire the engine. I then moved to the spark tester and concluded that there was no spark. I am not getting any power to the coil period. I did the ohm test and it is within spec according to the manual. What is this amplifier (transistor) thing mounted to the bracket below the coil. I didn't get any juice at this thing either. I keep trying to eliminate things and I'm still in the tracking mode. To tell you honestly the car is like brand new! It is originally from Florida and now is in Indiana. I tried to locate all of the grounds and took them apart and sprayed PB Blaster on them for added insurance, but they all looked perfect as well.

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Okay. So pull out that little brown relay.

 

Hold the relay in you're hand, and turn on the key. You should feel a click.

 

Then check for power on the Red/blue wire and the White wires. Should be 12v with key on.

 

IF not, replace relay.

 

Is this relay a dealer item as I have contacted the parts store and they do not list one for this model?

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I am not getting any power to the coil period.

 

The ECU grounds the Fuel pump relay to complete the Fuel Pump and ignition coil circuits.

 

If the ECU isn't getting power, neither will the Fuel Pump or the Coil.

 

Test the relay OK?

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The ECU grounds the Fuel pump relay to complete the Fuel Pump and ignition coil circuits.

 

If the ECU isn't getting power, neither will the Fuel Pump or the Coil.

 

Test the relay OK?

 

Ok. It is the brown looking small box on top of the steering wheel bracket correct? And thank you very much for all of your insight on this deal.

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I am out of time for this day. I will test that relay in the morning. Thanks again Gloyale and all others for your help. I cannot think of having this car out of service any longer as I am taking quite a lot of you no what from my toyota pals over this. They are relentless in geers and jabbing fun at my little falty car. It is quite sad to be honest. Of course all they can say is that I should have kept my All-Trac Corolla Wagon and I would be driving it instead of working on it. I'll let you guys know what I find out in the morning. Thanks again.

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No power at the coil? That makes it easier.

If fuses 11&12 are both good,it has to be the white fusible link,ignition switch or wiring.

 

Best way to check link and switch is to check for power on either side of the fuses.(11,12,key on)White link supplies power to both w/key on.

 

Coil will power up w/o the ECU,just won`t ground and spark.

 

Check fuses by ensuring power on both sides.

 

You are getting close.

Edited by naru

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No power at the coil? That makes it easier.

If fuses 11&12 are both good,it has to be the white fusible link,ignition switch or wiring.

 

Best way to check link and switch is to check for power on either side of the fuses.(11,12,key on)White link supplies power to both w/key on.

 

Coil will power up w/o the ECU,just won`t ground and spark.

 

Check fuses by ensuring power on both sides.

 

You are getting close.

 

I do not have a white wire in the fusible link area located in the engine area. I replaced the ignition relay and the coil. I am going to go and get a used ECU today so I can rule out the ECU. I hope this will work. Thanks.

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