I'm doing timing belts, crank seals etc. Trying to take care of oil leaks. The head gaskets on there now look like just form a gasket. How much of a can of worms would it be to replace the head gaskets at this time. Is it just unbolt/bolt or are there alignment & other issues that would be better left alone?

head gasket or cam case sealer?

hmmm I dont even know... new at this looking for a picture now

 

OK.. not cam case. IT is the head gasket... car runs ok but power is lacking and oil is all over the place.

Edited March 27, 200917 yr by cap86

I'm doing timing belts, crank seals etc. Trying to take care of oil leaks. The head gaskets on there now look like just form a gasket. How much of a can of worms would it be to replace the head gaskets at this time. Is it just unbolt/bolt or are there alignment & other issues that would be better left alone?

 

The goop (form-a-gasket looking stuff) you see is normal, it is used on the Cam-tower side to prevent oil leakage as there is no gasket between the cam-tower and head,

"High temp silicone" usually black is used, this is on the oil side of the head, not the compression side.. the compression side has a head gasket in it.

 

I wouldn't touch the head gaskets unless you know for sure... they arn't that hard to do... there is a "O" ring between the cam-tower (thing that holds the camshaft assembly) to the head ... you must have a replacement "o" ring if you remove the cam-tower from the head as when you replace a head gasket. But basic untourque and retourque process on head, .. clean surfaces and put new gasket on, torque head down, goop outside surface with "High temp silicone" and with new "o" ring on cam-tower oil passage bolt to head which causes the form a gasket looking stuff to goosh out, (this is the goop that you see at the joint), valve cover and done. Rocker arms or sum such will fall out as the Cam-tower is removed.. read up on those on how to put them back on during assembly...

 

Usuall oil leaks are from front two "0" rings on front side of camshafts, yes you have to remove timing belts and set timing marks.. it is a head scratcher the first time but after you figure it out it isn't too bad.

 

The front crank shaft seal also should be replaced.... but my gut feeling is no you don't have head gasket problems, sounds like all you got are leaking "o" rings (very typical) and needs a good tune-up.

 

When puting the belts back on you must set the tension on the belts.. a simple cheesey home tool can be built to do that or just kind of guess... I guessed and been working great.

 

lots of info on the search list... Plan on the seals taking longer then you think... and the same with the head gaskets.. for the first time, after that you get faster and realize it isn't that diffecult... just can be a saturday burner.

 

Oh... since I am rambling on here.. my 88 EA-82 Wagon had a bad oil leak on the bottom of the head so I had to change the head gasket... this was after I did the front seals etc.. put it back together and realized that the head was leaking also.. so the 2nd time of taking everything apart went alot faster so it wasn't so much the front seals but the lower part of the head gasket had failed.

 

my .02 cents

Edited March 29, 200917 yr by Indrid cold

i know the subaru dealership sells "bg" 44? it suposibly stops oil leaks. might want to try that first. as far as oil leaks on the head/valve area, never done a head gaskets on a suby but i have on plenty of older porsches(well they use copper rings but dissasembly is similar). its a pain and no fun.

Thanks all.