May 10, 200916 yr I got a 1984 GL Hatch 4x4. I just rebuilt the carb and replaced the front axles. But.... When the car warms up it wants to die and when i press on the accelerator it jumps. It also does this after i shut it off and turn it over again. I tried unplugging the EGR but it only made it worse..... Help????? I don't have my heat riser on at the moment?? Vacumm Leak?? Remember it onl does this when it gets warm.
May 10, 200916 yr Welcome! You'll find this to be the best place on the internet for anything Subaru related! Sounds like you have a Hitachi carb... I'm sure if u do have a hitachi, most here will tell you to SPFI or Weber it... let me tell u,... I weberized my 84 gl wagon (just this past week as a matter of fact...), ... worth every penny! Idles like a dream and purrs like a kitten... I was sick and tired of tweaking the Hitachi to get it to run half-way decent... After Weberizing it, it's like a new engine... it really brought the EA81 to life... Tell us what you have under the hood and I'm sure you'll find a wealth of information in the replies... do you have a black or blue kidney-bean shaped air filter housing? Edited May 10, 200916 yr by '84 Flat-Four
May 10, 200916 yr 84 is going to have a blue one. You sure none of your fuel filters are stopped up? Just throwing that out there.
May 10, 200916 yr Author Fuel filters are good and it is the light blue air cleaner with all that retarded emissions stuff... I want to get a weber but i just don't got the cash... Ya 1.8L with Hitachi carb. But it still dies when it warms up which i am most confused about....:-\
May 10, 200916 yr Both FFs? maybe choke related? How does it run when it's not warmed up... rich or lean? Does adjusting the idle mixture and idle speed screws help at all? You mentioned rebuilding the carb... i presume you adjusted the float level to 10.5mm (7/8"), or close to that... Shot throttle bushings can be a major vac leak... with my hitachi, this vac leak wouldn't appear until the engine got hot... then it would be a PITA to get it started again when all warmed up... Just throwing things out there... hoping General Disorder will chime in here soon... GD has helped me out tremendously with these stupid HiCrappies... I know it stinks waiting for a reply, but it's the weekend and you should get a flow of answers and suggestions here soon... hang in there...
May 10, 200916 yr Author When its cold it runs like a champ The choke seems to be operating well. And i meant my one FF. The fuel filter gets air in it when it sits not running???
May 10, 200916 yr Author Where are those shot throttle bushings?? And we didn't adjust the float at all because its right where we want it and idk what level but it seems to be perfect.
May 10, 200916 yr Author I know where the idle speed adjuster is but there isn't another screw for the mixture??? If there is where?
May 10, 200916 yr The mixture screw is on the front in the snout sticking out of base of the carb. There are 2 holes ontop eachother. The one you want is the bottom hole. Use a stubby flat head. There may be a pin through the holes that you might have to drive out first befor you can access the mixture screw. Ide chec for vac leaks first. The choke can hide alot. "and when i press on the accelerator it jumps" Im not sure what you mean but perhaps you simply need to up your idle speed.
May 10, 200916 yr Author When it jumps i mean it lurches and then backs off and lurches and backs of continuously with no solid acceleration. Just "chugging" i guess is how i could put it......
May 11, 200916 yr throttle bushings are located inside the throttle body of your carb, the lowest portion. It sits up against your intake manifold... here's the link to my thread and a pic for reference... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98105 Bump for the Carburetor Gods to chime in...
May 11, 200916 yr And i meant my one FF. The fuel filter gets air in it when it sits not running??? There are two FFs. One on passenger's side, under the car by rear tire, and the other is under the hood, driver's side. What do you mean the FF is getting air in it?
May 11, 200916 yr Author Th drivers side filter gets air in it when the car is not running. I followed all the hoses to make sure they were connected and they were so im confused....... And onw of my buddies said that maybe the cadylletic converter may be causing this whole not running problem??????????????????????????????????
May 12, 200916 yr Main fuel filter is under the car by the fuel pump. The one under the hood is a vapor seperator, and it will get some air space in it if the engiine isn't running. Change the filter at the back, see if that helps. It cured the '85 BRATs jerkyness. It's symptons were like yours. Idle good, drove down the road good unless I wound it out to long going thru the gears, then it woould start the herky-jerky stuff. Changed the rear filter and it was good to go.
May 12, 200916 yr if its not running when warm (choke off) then you have either a vacuum leak or the carb is plugged up somewhere. Its probably not the fuel filter and definately not the cat. GD
May 17, 200916 yr Author Ok so i think i found the vac problem. but now when it warms up it idles great, however when pressing in the accelerator the engine has a dead spot at like 2000 rpm. ummm?????? EGR???
May 17, 200916 yr Ok so i think i found the vac problem. but now when it warms up it idles great, however when pressing in the accelerator the engine has a dead spot at like 2000 rpm. ummm?????? EGR??? It's not transitioning properly to the secondary barrel. Possibly the accelerator pump is not functioning or the throttle plates aren't set correctly for the transition ports (or they are blocked). Stop blaming things on the EGR. They are not responsible for running issues unlesss they are stuck open (huge vac leak). They nearly always are stuck closed and function effectively as a block-off plate under such conditions. GD
May 17, 200916 yr Author The only thing is that this dead zone has happened on two different carbs. i tried another carb and it did the same thing at 2000 rpm
May 17, 200916 yr Get some detailed pictures of your carb setup and post them on here. Are you positive you have your carb, and vacuum lines correct?
May 22, 200916 yr Author Alright so i was checking out my carb barrels when i accelerate and i found that my second barrel is NOT opening.. im thinking this is the problem but how can i fix it??? By the way its the hitachi
May 22, 200916 yr I would manually actuate the plate, maybe even PB blast it (with the carb off of course) to free it up... maybe that'll do the trick... you can always do the mod to keep 2nd barrel open, bypassing diaphram (which sounds like it's shot)... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49976 Btw, my carb was already setup with this mod when i got it. It passed emissions with it! But eventually I had to weberize due to a few other major problems with the Hicrappy carb. I suggest you weberize it... it's soooooooo sweet!
May 22, 200916 yr Author That might just do it i have to run out and about but i'll give a shot later
May 23, 200916 yr Author Ok so i tried it and all it did was increase my idle rpm. it still has that bald spot at 2000 rpm. idk wut the frick is wrong with it
May 23, 200916 yr Yes that is the drawback to the mod, but the lesser of two evils. Try playing w/ idle mixture & idle speed screws. Idle mixture screw is on front, lower screw, maybe a roll pin in front needs to be removed beforehand, but sometimes already removed. Good luck & keep us updated on ur progress.
May 23, 200916 yr Author Tried moving the screws around and it had no effect. maybe its time to surrender the cash that i don't have:(
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