1-3-2-4 Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) It only happens when the body of the car shifts forward when you lift off the throttle under light or moderate acceleration. It's coming from the driver's side front it sounds suspension related but it's hard to tell which component it is. I can provide a sound file of it when I'm able to get home. Oh and the car is a 95 Legacy L wagon Edited May 24, 2009 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 could be ball joints, or it could be a sloppy CV in the axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg donovan Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 could be ball joints, or it could be a sloppy CV in the axle. my gut reaction says balljoint too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Ya it could be that or it could be the lash on the trans needs to be adjusted again on the front stub axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenleg88 Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 loose tie rod? is that possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 I'm about to go under the car here in a few if I lift the front end up would I be able to tell if it's the ball joint by trying to move it? or if it's the lash adjustment that's needed or the tie rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 (edited) SO I was under the car and I checked the ball joint.. I don't know what to say.. it sounds like it's coming from the CV axle or the ball joint.. the car's weight makes the clunk sound louder then me tugging on the front suspension so it made it harder to hear.. If I can find my long mic cable I can grab the clip since the mic in the car you can just barely hear it. Oh yeah and my boot is split.. maybe it is the tie rod.. but the passenger side is also just as bad as well. Driver's side shown here passenger side Edited May 25, 2009 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 made this sound file today hard to hold my handheld mic and get the sound in the car while driving and shifting. from the sound and what I saw today 90% sure it's the tie rods.. having said that I just need to replace the inner rods right and put on a new boot? and don't forget to count the number of threads before taking it off? however it seems like I can't upload the sound file right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Does anyone know what is needed to remove the inner tie rod? and how do you remove the ball joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 (edited) Just did this today. DO NOT count threads. I can say with 99% certainty that the new part will be different. I just did this today on the drivers side on my car. I'm lucky enough to work at a shop with an alignment lift though. Get a measuring tape. Jack up the car, measure from the center tread line on the front of the drivers side tire to the same point on the front of the passenger side tire. Write down that number. Now do the same for the same for the back of the tire. Make sure the steering wheel is perfectly centered when you do that. When you put the new rods on you adjust each side equally until you get those same measurements front and back. Get some whiteout and mark each rod right next to the lock nut. When you loosen the lock nut, try not to turn it more than a quarter turn. Just get it loose and then leave it alone. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the old rod ends. You can cut the old boots off with a razor if you want to get them out of the way. I removed the rod from the outer joint first. Then loosened and removed it from the rack. Seems easier that way to me. When you get the old ones off lay them out so you know which side they came off of. Lay the new rods right next to them, butt the inner ends against something flat. Thread the nuts onto the new rods (they should come with new ones, use those) and line those up with the nuts on the old rods, the new nuts may also be different than the old ones. Line up the outer edge of the nuts where they will contact the outer end, now mark the new rod with whiteout where the inner edge of the nut sits. This way you have a reference mark for approximately where the nut should be when it's installed. You'll have to remove the nut again to install the new boot. If you have a vice installing the boots is a breeze. Soak the rod down with silicone spray, clamp the flats on the joint end in the vise (not too tight) and pull the boot down over the threads with a good tug. If you don't have a vice you'll have to fight it on the car. You don't have to get it all the way in place just yet, but get it past the threads at least because that's the hardest part. I found it easier to install the new rod end and tighten it to the rack first. Don't forget to install the jam washer. Put the lock nut on, and thread it up to the whiteout mark, then give it another half turn for extra room. It may be a bit difficult to thread the new rod into the end joint, but bear with it, you'll get it eventually. You'll pretty much have to use a wrench to turn the new rod, unless you're super man, or have extremely strong hands... (i.e. "no girlfriend" ) Once they're threaded on take a hammer and flatten the jam washer against one of the flats on the inner end. That will keep the end from turning if it ever manages to get loose from the rack. Then spray some silicone lube on the new boots and on the steering rack and they should pop on without much too trouble. Zip tie them in place on the rack, but leave them loose on the rods for now. Adjust the rods so the tires line up with measurements you took earlier. This should get you close enough with the toe-in, but you still want to take it to a shop and have it aligned to be safe. It doesn't have to be off by much to tear up the tires quick. Once you get the tires back to, or as close as you can to, the measurements you took earlier tighten the lock nuts and zip tie or clamp the boots to the rods. As far as the clunk sound, when coming off the throttle, could the the tie rods, but it might also be a bad motor mount or transmission mount. Edited November 7, 2009 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 thanks for the tip of not counting the treads I have to ask would a tool like this help any? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRGFW/ref=s9_simz_gw_s0_p263_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1N2MB2WT0XZNPMX5X2TB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846 the boots are pretty much shot so I'd need to replace those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allwheeldad Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Maybe a shot in the dark, but I had a clunking sound plagueing me for a while and it turned out to be the sway bar bushings. The clunking sound would happen whenever I loaded or unloaded the front suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Never used one of those but one of the techs at work has one and seems to like it. He only uses it once in a blue moon though. I might drop the money on a specialty tool if I planned to use it fairly often, but how often do you really have to change inner tie rod ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 Just did this today. DO NOT count threads. I can say with 99% certainty that the new part will be different. I just did this today on the drivers side on my car. I'm lucky enough to work at a shop with an alignment lift though. Get a measuring tape. Jack up the car, measure from the center tread line on the front of the drivers side tire to the same point on the front of the passenger side tire. Write down that number. Now do the same for the same for the back of the tire. Make sure the steering wheel is perfectly centered when you do that. When you put the new rods on you adjust each side equally until you get those same measurements front and back. Get some whiteout and mark each rod right next to the lock nut. When you loosen the lock nut, try not to turn it more than a quarter turn. Just get it loose and then leave it alone. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the old rod ends. You can cut the old boots off with a razor if you want to get them out of the way. I removed the rod from the outer joint first. Then loosened and removed it from the rack. Seems easier that way to me. When you get the old ones off lay them out so you know which side they came off of. Lay the new rods right next to them, butt the inner ends against something flat. Thread the nuts onto the new rods (they should come with new ones, use those) and line those up with the nuts on the old rods, the new nuts may also be different than the old ones. Line up the outer edge of the nuts where they will contact the outer end, now mark the new rod with whiteout where the inner edge of the nut sits. This way you have a reference mark for approximately where the nut should be when it's installed. You'll have to remove the nut again to install the new boot. If you have a vice installing the boots is a breeze. Soak the rod down with silicone spray, clamp the flats on the joint end in the vise (not too tight) and pull the boot down over the threads with a good tug. If you don't have a vice you'll have to fight it on the car. You don't have to get it all the way in place just yet, but get it past the threads at least because that's the hardest part. I found it easier to install the new rod end and tighten it to the rack first. Don't forget to install the jam washer. Put the lock nut on, and thread it up to the whiteout mark, then give it another half turn for extra room. It may be a bit difficult to thread the new rod into the end joint, but bear with it, you'll get it eventually. You'll pretty much have to use a wrench to turn the new rod, unless you're super man, or have extremely strong hands... (i.e. "no girlfriend" ) Once they're threaded on take a hammer and flatten the jam washer against one of the flats on the inner end. That will keep the end from turning if it ever manages to get loose from the rack. Then spray some silicone lube on the new boots and on the steering rack and they should pop on without much too trouble. Zip tie them in place on the rack, but leave them loose on the rods for now. Adjust the rods so the tires line up with measurements you took earlier. This should get you close enough with the toe-in, but you still want to take it to a shop and have it aligned to be safe. It doesn't have to be off by much to tear up the tires quick. Once you get the tires back to, or as close as you can to, the measurements you took earlier tighten the lock nuts and zip tie or clamp the boots to the rods. As far as the clunk sound, when coming off the throttle, could the the tie rods, but it might also be a bad motor mount or transmission mount. A little update now that the weather is getting warmer.. having the car on the ground I decided to try to tug the driver's side tie rod back and forth take's a bit of effort but you can hear the clunk sound. I think I will have everything.. Inner & outer tie rods and lower ball joint & rubber boot covers Only thing I cant figure out from picture is when I remove the lower ball joint do I need to support the steering knuckle in any way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 (edited) Only thing I cant figure out from picture is when I remove the lower ball joint do I need to support the steering knuckle in any way? if the strut bolts are still in and the sway bar has been disconnected you should be able to pry down on the control arm and leave the knuckle hanging. but my lower ball joint was problematic so i removed the whole knuckle and then remove the ball joint.. note: after i got the pinch bolt out, use lots of pblaster and be patient, i drove a large screw driver as a wedge in the gap to spread it a bit to loosen it up. not too much, i have heard of one side busting off. Edited June 4, 2010 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 (edited) Definitely use PB Blaster - GENEROUSLY - before you even start the job!! mine were a bit problematic as well (rusty) I started soaking everything with the PB a couple of days ahead of the actual job - crank the wheel all the way to one side - squirt everything down; pinchbolt, in the gap of the knuckle where the ball joint sits, the ball joint nut, the sway bar bolts (IIRC we removed the upper one to disconnect the sway bar from the A-arm), etc. - crank wheel opposite way & squirt the other side. do this several times over a couple of days - will make the job MUCH easier. You dont actually have to support the knuckle when doing the ball joints as long as everything else is still connected. But - a small floor jack with a block of wood (to protect/cushion the brake rotor) is very useful for raising the hub back up when trying to line up the new joint with the a-arm (i installed new joint in knuckle first, then lined up & installed end in a-arm) and most definitely make an appointment for an alignment asap! no matter how careful you are putting on the new stuff, it will be out of alignment and will eat up tires in no time. Edited June 4, 2010 by heartless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 hmm I forgot about the pinch bolt I will give it a shot of PB blaster but would a impact help for it? i hope the rockauto order will ship from someplace that's not too far. I can pick up a pickle fork local will feel nice to have a tighter steering again and yes I do know I need a alignment.. good thing I'm not yet running on my 16's yet but still on the stock 14's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 hmm I forgot about the pinch bolt I will give it a shot of PB blaster but would a impact help for it? i hope the rockauto order will ship from someplace that's not too far. I can pick up a pickle fork local will feel nice to have a tighter steering again and yes I do know I need a alignment.. good thing I'm not yet running on my 16's yet but still on the stock 14's soak the bejeezus outta that pinch bolt! seriously - and be very careful with an impact wrench - the other half ended up breaking the bolt on one of his - we ended up replacing both the knuckle AND the control arm. (dont ask!) I would be more inclined to use a little carefully placed heat and more PB myself...heating the area will cause it to "suck in" the pb and help break any rust loose. never used a pickle fork on one of these cars - once you get the castle nut loose leave it threaded on the stud just to the edge (edge of nut & stud should be flush) and give it a good whack with a mini-sledge -should pop it right out getting the big end of the ball joint out is usually the bigger problem & no pickle fork will help with that. Once you have the pinch bolt out - very gently pry in the gap to help facilitate removal - either a large screwdriver or a small prybar work - just dont over do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 I will go outside and hit it with some PB blaster in a few and I will check about this pinch bolt. I'm confused is it the bolt that can break or the area you have to pry open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 (edited) I will go outside and hit it with some PB blaster in a few and I will check about this pinch bolt. I'm confused is it the bolt that can break or the area you have to pry open? the bolt certainly. i do not really see how the mass of the knuckle could break, but i feel like i have read about it happening, so just be careful and take it easy. if both the ball joint and the knuckle were new, you would not need to "pry" it open but with age things get dirty and rusty. and you have to completely remove the pinch bolt, just loosening will not work. and the other end of the bolt hole is open, spray it and the middle too. Edited June 4, 2010 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 The knuckle is aluminum which could crack if you pry on it too much. I'd suggest loosening the lower nut on the ball joint but leave it in place and hammer on the control arm to pop the ball joint out of the knuckle first. That should also separate the ball joint from the control arm after a few whacks from the hammer. It may help to remove the nut first to clean the threads and then put it back on. Then you can remove it by hand after getting everything separated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 Here are some newer pics and without cars a foot away from my body doing 30... Not too bad it seems for rust.. but man those bushings.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 holy crap I ordered on Friday and the order will be here tomorrow 2nd time ordering from RockAuto love it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Today is Friday (for 13 more minutes). You mean last friday? Try ordering from Tirerack sometime. I get my stuff next day in most cases when I order from them. Same thing for Amsoil, but their Richmond distribution center is only about an hour and a half from my house. I could drive there and pick up my order if I wanted. Might do it someday just for gits and shiggles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) Today is Friday (for 13 more minutes). You mean last friday? Try ordering from Tirerack sometime. I get my stuff next day in most cases when I order from them. Same thing for Amsoil, but their Richmond distribution center is only about an hour and a half from my house. I could drive there and pick up my order if I wanted. Might do it someday just for gits and shiggles. Shipment Dates Anticipated ship date Jun 4, 2010 Estimated delivery Jun 5, 2010 last time I ordered from tirerack was last year they finally opened a warehouse in my state but I'd have to pay sales tax on it. boo.... the funny thing is it's showing the weight as 1Lb so that must be wrong.. 2 struts and 2 ball joints. I wonder when the time comes what size I should change the front sway bar to. Edited June 5, 2010 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.