Sounds like my wife may have broke a timing belt,

heard a pop and no power with a check engine light.

 

Is a 99 Impreza 2.2L an interferance engine?

What damage might I find once I get the car home?

 

 

Bill

Yes.

 

Probably some bent valves.

 

Someone here recently was lucky with an interference 2.2 IIR.

most likely toast. Did she try and start it after the car died (most wifes would that's why I ask). If she did then it's 99.999% toast, if not... well, you could get lucky but it will take time and money to find out how much more time and money you'll need to put into it.

slapping on a belt (can even be used) to see if the motor is good is a good idea to know for sure. although a leak down test can be performed as is to tell you if you bent any valves.

 

a valve job isn't that bad of a job, will give you another 100,000 miles out of the car if done right (complete timing kit, seals, etc), and might be worth it.

 

ebay sells complete timing kits for around $200 - includes belts, all new timing pulleys, and tensioner. at 10 years old often the belt failure is just a symptom of old pulleys/tensioners. the bearings loose grease over time and cause the timing belt to fail.

 

that's where these ebay kits are so handy, i've bought tons of them.

Expanding on GG's comments.

 

That's not a bad belt at all to do.

 

I always pull the radiator 'cause I like a little room.

 

If a belt doesn't solve it I'd pull the engine to check the pistons, clean and reseal it and drop it back in for another 100k.

I believe 96 was the last year of non-interferance engines, they went to the interferance engine to gain a little horse power and torque. You could probably get the same hp gain on the pre 97 engine by adding a cool air intake.

If she did then it's 99.999% toast, if not... well, you could get lucky but it will take time and money to find out how much more time and money you'll need to put into it.

 

I have seen quite a few people get lucky on these Phase II motors. It is totally worth installing a belt on it and then test running it. If the compression is good on all 4 you are golden

 

Worst case pull the heads and put a couple valves in. Very unlikely htat the whole motor is *toast*

Thanks for all the info, I am guessing if it was the belt it was caused by another components failure as I put that belt in only about 40K miles ago.

It's on the hook and should be here in a couple of hours.

 

I'll let you know what I find.

 

 

Bill

if an idler failed, very likely, you will need to replace it before you can put on the belt and check compression. made borrow or buy a used one just to test. they should all be replaced if you want to drive the car a long time.

I believe 96 was the last year of non-interferance engines, they went to the interferance engine to gain a little horse power and torque. You could probably get the same hp gain on the pre 97 engine by adding a cool air intake.

 

I thought they already had a cool air intake? There's a donkywongle that goes from behind the right front headlight into the air filter. Isn't that it?

I am guessing if it was the belt it was caused by another components failure as I put that belt in only about 40K miles ago.l

yep, that was my guess without even knowing anything:

 

at 10 years old often the belt failure is just a symptom of old pulleys/tensioners. the bearings loose grease over time and cause the timing belt to fail.

 

i made that statement because it's true and common.

 

someone on here may have a spare used belt to send you. i probably have some EJ22 belts used i'd give you for shipping to help you test if you'd like.

MAY HAVE GOT LUCKY!

Pulled one of the covers and belt is intact, tension seems right.

Got a code P0340, Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction.

 

Don't have a manual, anyone know the diagnostic steps to check this?

Or should I just get a new Camshaft Position Sensor and gamble?

 

How much could it cost ????

 

 

Bill

Oh, the tow bill would have been $490.00 without AAA,

only had to pay $24.00 for the 6 miles over the first 100.

 

COOL!

 

 

Bill

A lot of us have those around as spares.

 

They can be a pain to remove with corrosion.

 

CHeck the wireing/connection first.

 

If noone close has any PM me and I'll see if I have any left or take one of a good running engine.

Wiring and connector looks good, It's only $80.00,

I'll probably just get one and give er a try. :-\

 

 

Bill

I was thinking crankshaft. Yea the camshaft sensor is very easy to replace. Don't know if they should be OEM or not since I alyaws have used ones if necessary.

Wiring and connector looks good, It's only $80.00,

I'll probably just get one and give er a try. :-\

 

 

Bill

 

yeah, but which one, left or right? there are 2, should be the same, but one each side. i guess you could replace one with new, if it runs great, if not swap the removed one to the other side and try. if not .......

 

you can get a lot of used parts for 80$ .....

Now I'm curious - the 99 2.2 has TWO cam sensors?

 

I'm gonna have ot go open the hood of the on that I have here and look.

 

BTW I have a 99 Legacy 2.2 parts engine here. If there are 2 sensors on it I can look to see it they appear good.

I only see 1 cam sensor.

 

But, upon further inspection seems the teeth on the belt are shredded.

Is this the same, worse, or better than a break?

 

 

Bill

The same as broken in my opinion.

 

Damage is probably similar.

 

And you still don't know what caused it. Idler, WP, the belt itself, a cam had an issue, etc.

All the idlers, water pump spin freely, both cams turn over with some resistance (valve springs) and "pop" over once the cam hits the apex of the lobe (did that make sense)?

 

I am hoping this is a good sign, maybe no valve damage.

I would think if a valve was bent, the cams would not "feel" normal.

But they may if a valve is plain old broken?

 

Is it a fair assumption that with a shot belt, the ignition would not even try to fire, even out of sync from the rest of the system?

 

I'll get a belt tomorrrow and find out wahts really messed up.

 

 

Bill

OOPS, missed one the lower idler below the tensioner is siezed!!

 

Now we have a cause:banana:

 

 

Bill

The splined one? It's the common failure.

The splined one? It's the common failure.

 

 

THATS THE ONE!

 

Any thoughts on the cam spinning question?

 

 

Bill

They always have some resistance. A lot of stuff is moving in there and usually being pushed by pretty strong forces.

 

I hope that you have the crank set properly before turning the cams.

 

Depending on when you are doing this you can get one of the left coast places to possibly overnight you an Ebay kit for sat delivery cheaper than getting idlers at the parts store.

 

You gotta guess just the one or all of them. Usually the second wimpiest is the one on the old style tensioner. The lower one is probably the single bearing one and now they are all double row idlers.