I have a 1994 Loyale 1.8 SFI with driveability problems at this time which I first thought was fuel. I got the car with the drivers side timing belt broken. I installed new belts. I installed new plugs, wire ,cap and rotor. Set the timing at 20 degrees with the green connectors together as label under hood states.The car starts easily and idles very smooth . With the car in neutral it revs fine but when I drive the car it stumbles and seem to have no power but seems to run better at high RPM's after the initial load on motor becomes less. I've changed the fuel pressure regulator , pump and filter. I get a code with the white connectors plug together code 11 crank angle sensor signal.Is it possible for the car to start and idle fine but have drivability with this being a problem? I've searched this forum and can't seem to find an answer. Is there any way that I could have made a mistake on the timing belts and it still start and run but with the driveability problems. Any suggestion for me ? I can keep my old VW bus, Fords running fine but this car has mme stumped. HELP

Double check your cam timing. It is easy to slip a tooth when installing the belts. It will idle fine, but be more gutless than usual. If you actually had to adjust your ignition timing to get it to 20 deg BTDC, I would look at the driver's side particularly hard. If properly done, new belts do not affect ignition timing.

I am having a similar problem with my 93 Loyale after a timing belt change. (done at a shop). Except mine is pinging, I think only on one side. The timing is set to 20. We looked at the marks a second time on the belts/pulleys, and they looked correct, but it is sorta hard to tell for certain from an angle.

 

I have tried everything to find the cause of the pinging with no success. The latest being the transmission modulator ( which was leaking) Changed that but it did not help the ping. Does idle smoother.

 

Sounds like we both have possibly the same problem, but maybe cam timing off a tooth in different directions.

 

Not going to be pulling mine apart again any time soon though. It is not my daily driver.

+1 on cam timing. Very easy to get it incorrect or have the belts slip while tensioning.

If you pull the end covers off and set the crank at "0" according to the marks on the FLYWHEEL, not the balancer, then look at the cam timing marks, One should be STRAIGHT UP and the other STRAIGHT DOWN. If one or the other looks not quite straight (and there are notches in the timing cover to align them to, both up and down, if I'm not mistaken) then I would strongly suspect that's your problem...

 

Hope this helps!

 

88RxTuner

A slight correction to 88rx's post: Don't set the flywheel at 0, set it in the middle of the 3 marks about 90 deg. around from 0....

 

The 0 is for ignition timing. The 3 marks are for cam timing.

 

Rob.

Weak coil/bad plug wires can cause this problem.

<<sheepish grin>> OOps... that's right. I was thinking of the 3 lines when I typed "0", but forgot there is another "0" there! lol@me

 

Very easy to check cam timing, takes less than an hour including beer/smoke/look at the girlies/check out the hot car/whatever else...

 

Failing ignition components will generally run WORSE at higher RPM due to cylinder pressures and loading which makes the ignition have to work harder. However, it's always a good idea to make sure your ignition components are in good shape, and make sure the ignition timing is set correctly.

 

88RxTuner

Thanks all !!!!!!!!! One tooth -off She's fine now:banana:

Thanks all !!!!!!!!! One tooth -off She's fine now:banana:

 

 

Which side was it?

It was the drivers left side.