1992 Legacy, 2.2 liter

 

Not as dramatic as 98Sub2500Leg’s incident, but I had a pretty major crisis at the beginning of my installation/reassembly process last evening: When I went to tighten the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt, the threads in the block stripped! I had just barely snugged the bolt with my 3/8” drive ratchet, and then I put the torque wrench (set at 28 ft-lbs) on the bolt and when I went to torque it up the resistance never really increased much. Many of you know the sinking feeling this brings on, I am sure.

 

So I guess I will try to install a heli coil. I invite comments on the following:

 

1. Thread appears to be M10x1.25. Will verify today.

2. I am hoping to do this without removing the engine. I would use a hand held electric drill.

3. In order to get enough clearance for the drill, I need to remove the air conditioning condenser (the engine cooling system radiator is already out). What is the procedure/danger of venting the Freon from the A/C system.

 

Thanks for any and all comments. I am going through a period of bad luck right now. This is actually one of my smaller issues...

 

Mike V.

invest in an angle drill or maybe an attachment. you help the environment and save the cost of the freon. if the space is close to being enough, maybe shorten the drill bit, maybe 2 of increasing size.

That bolt is NOT in the block. It is in a plate that bolts directly onto the block. I would find another piece and just replace it rather than trying to go thru all of the hassle of trying to get a drill in there and making sure it is straight. Is yours the one piece tensioner? I may have one of those backing plates in my shed. Let me know. Repl;acing the plate is a breeze and you won't have to remove the A/C compressor in order to do it. Three bolts an off it comes. If you decide to helicoil it, I'd still remove the plate and do it outside the engine bay. Much easier.

That sure would be nice if the tensioner pulley bolted to some sort of removeable plate, but it did not appear that way last night and looking at the factory service manual now, I do not see any such plate.

That bolt is NOT in the block. It is in a plate that bolts directly onto the block. I would find another piece and just replace it rather than trying to go thru all of the hassle of trying to get a drill in there and making sure it is straight. Is yours the one piece tensioner? I may have one of those backing plates in my shed. Let me know. Repl;acing the plate is a breeze and you won't have to remove the A/C compressor in order to do it. Three bolts an off it comes. If you decide to helicoil it, I'd still remove the plate and do it outside the engine bay. Much easier.

 

+1...I thought I had the same problem when I did the t-belt on my legacy, I was so grateful to look there and see that little "holder" for the t-belt tensioner just came unbolted..I believe there either 12mm's or 10mm's holding that tensioner bracket in there...

Before I start thinking there is a glimmer of hope, are you guys talikng about the single bolt that attaches the tensioner PULLEY or the two bolts that hold the "tensioner adjuster"?

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_7/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_2/

Thanks for the illustration avk. It is a bit hard to say anything definitive from this, but it looks like it could be that the tensioner pulley AND the tensioner aduster both bolt to this bracket. Is that what you guys are trying to tell me?

 

Mike V

That's right, I know it's hard to tell when you look at it. In fact, on some early engines with a new-style tensioner, the bracket can be swapped to install the better old-style unit instead.

That's right, I know it's hard to tell when you look at it. In fact, on some early engines with a new-style tensioner, the bracket can be swapped to install the better old-style unit instead.

 

 

I learned something...

I have both new and old style tension brackets if need. Several of each actually.

Just a quick note to express thanks to those who opened my eyes to the fact that the damage was to a removeable bracket. I don't know if I would have figured that out on my own. I removed the bracket and installed a helicoil yesterday. I'll update you once the job is done. Hard to find time to work on it.

 

Mike V.

You should be fine.

 

But if not I've got literally boxes of brackets if you need one.

I should be able to spend some time this evening on this job. I checked with my friendly local Auto Zone and they do not have a cam sprocket holding tool. At this point, my plan is to wait to do the final torquing of the cam sprocket bolts until the belt is fully installed and tensioned. Then I will lock the flywheel and torque the bolts (same as I did to loosen them). Is there any evidence that this is not an acceptable approach?

 

Also, I think I have read threads here on USMB where people have struggled getting the belt on and I think that it was suggested to leave one of the idlers off until the belt is otherwise installed and timed. Then that last idler gets installed (before pulling the pin on the tensioner adduster) Is this a good solution and which idler is the one in question?

 

Thanks again.

 

Mike V.

On 2.2's I usually leave the bottom smooth idler till last.

 

I also use the vise crip style plastic clamps to hold the belt on the crank and cam sprockets.

On 2.2's I usually leave the bottom smooth idler till last.

 

That's the one!

 

Also, don't forget to slide the tensioner full left and tighten down before pulling the pin. (Ask me how I know!)

The way I found to hold the belt to the cams was to use a piece of paint stirrer stick and a C clamp. Put the stick on the belt and the clamp on the cam. Not too much pressure and it holds it to the mark just fine. just make sure you line up with the timing marks first. The "lower" idlers don't matter much but it is a bit difficult to get that lowest BOLT back in and hold the pulley at the same time - it might take a few tries

OK, I was able to work on the ’92 Legacy on Friday night. It all went back together without drama, although I am not 100% confident in my helicoil repair of the tensioner pulley threads (in the removable tensioner bracket). I thought the installation of the helicoil went ok but when I torqued the bolt, although it did torque up to the recommended value, I did not like the feel of it. In other words, instead of tightening right up and clicking the torque wrench, it had a bit of a “soft” feel as the bolt turned and the torque wrench clicked. Oh well, this car is my daily beater and never strays more than about 20 miles from home. Plus it is a non-interference engine!

 

I installed the belt after installing ALL pulleys/sprockets/etc. No problem. I tightened the cam sprocket bolts by jamming the flywheel and letting the timing belt keep everything from turning. I really think this is ok.

 

Thanks again for everyone’s comments.

 

Mike V.