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I got a project car (not running.) Compression good same all 4 (120.) Timing belt marks line up correct (dash not tdc arrow on crank cogwheel.) New sparks and wires (sparks visible on all 4 cranking.) Fuel pump good flow. Using ether starter fluid I was hoping for some fire but nothing. Lack of fire with ether leads me to believe that the ignitiontiming is off. I sprayed a plenty of the ether into the throttle body so What is next?

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Can we assume that the car is a '92 Legacy with a 2.2 engine? (You didn't say, although your screen name suggests that.)

 

At 120 PSI, the compression is too low if the right procedure was followed. With a well-charged battery, all spark plugs out, the throttle held open, and a good oil film on the cylinder walls, a healthy engine with proper valve timing should be closer to 170-175 PSI. You mentioned that you're using the correct mark at the crank, but make sure that's true at the cams as well. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100505 for links to articles that will help you verify proper timing belt installation.

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Thanks for the posting.

 

CEL operational no codes

 

Cam marks inline with belt marks

 

Will re-test compression with throttle blocked open.

 

My pal is an ASE guy (I'm an electrician) he's coming to oversee my

"diagnostics" thursday 6-25. More postings after that.

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120 PSI is low. You need to do a wet and dry compression test. The numbers being even at least makes me think the timing is OK.

 

You wont really have any CEL codes unless the engine runs.

 

CHeck the engine temp sensor

Check the Crank Position Sensor

Check the Cam Position Sensor

 

nipper

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OK thanks for asking.ej22 not rj

I bought the car told it had a blown head gasket

I knew it would be work. For $400 all new tires

hard to go wrong with time to kill.

 

With the compression test all 120psi

I figured it could not be head gasket.

I had squirted marvel mystery oil in for the test.

no oil in water no water in oil

 

My pal (the ase guy)noted the slow turning over of the motor

probably overheated and done damage

to one of the cylinders.

It can be seen that there is hesitation in the crank as it turns

and as all the oil went out it was making a creaking noise also.

 

He said he has done 1000 engine swaps so I trust him.

I am baring the motor out for removal this weekend.

to the machine shop, line bore pistons&rings.

 

any tips or special tricks? I'd like to keep this on the road 100k or more

next up "like new baby ha ha"

Edited by LegacyWagon92
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