Tommymc Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 I have a 96 Legacy wagon. A few years ago, we had the engine replaced with a used one from a salvage yard. I suspect the replacement is not the exact same year because some of the EGR connections are different. The car originally had the 2.2 liter engine but I suppose I can't even assume the new one is the same. Now I'm told that the car has a $1300 list of needed repairs. Financial circumstances being what they are, I can't put that much into the car. So it's either park it or DIY time. One of the repairs is replacing a rusted oil pan....to the tune of $400. Now it's time to find out exactly what engine is under the hood so I can get the right part. Any tips on where to find numbers on the engine that will ID the size and year? What's involved with the oilpan replacement that makes it so expensive? I asked the garage if there was anything structural in the way that made removal difficult and they said no. (is this true?) They made it sound like you needed to have mystic powers to apply the sealant correctly, clean and reseat the bolts. Is this a straight-forward (if messy) no-special-tools-or-knowledge DIY job? Any tips appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Behind the PS pump/ALternator on the block it will say EJ22 or EJ25. It would be real hard to do a decent job on the oil pan without engine removal. You may be able to do it by unbolting the engine mounts, dogbone, perhaps exhaust, perhaps other thigs as well, and liftiing it a bit to get to the back bolts. I'd just suck it up and take it out and check the baffle plate and probably do other routine maintenance. Odds are good that you have a 2.2. Very rare for someone on purpose to replace a 2.2 with a 2.5. A 1.8 I'd think you'd notice being under powered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommymc Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 So for parts purposes, all EJ22 engines are the same and year doesn't matter? I guess engine removal/lifting explains the high labor charge. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Between the EJ22 and EJ25 engines, there are only 2 differences: a 4 qt oil pan or a 4.5 qt. oil pan. (Which, btw, are interchangeable). The 4 qt has a rounded bottom, the 4.5 qt. has a squared-off bottom. Either will work just fine. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommymc Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 Great. So from what I've read in other posts, it sounds like the motor has to lift 2" to get the rear bolts out. There is a crossmember just behind the oil pan which has a bolt holding the motor mount. There is one on either side. Are these the only two mounts, and if I loosen them can I jack the engine up enough without removing the exhaust? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 If you are straped for cash and the pan isn't leaking but just rusted you may want to try some Por 15. It is some messy stuff but it just paints on and should seal the rust spots up. A lot of people on the diesel forums that I am on swear by it to repair rusted oil pans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommymc Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 Thanks for the tip. I was wondering about that. To my eye there is leakage in the rear coming from up high, most likely the gasket. So the rear oil-soaked part of the pan seems to still have paint on it. The front is rusted but I don't see any leakage. I may spray degreaser uo there to clean it off and get a getter handle on the condition. The leakage isn't too bad.....at least not enough to be causing excessive oil use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Pull the pan, sand-blast it, or wire wheel it, and paint it. Then reinstall it. You may have to jack up the engine to remove the pan - that's typical. This isn't rocket science and it's not worth $400. Those guys are nuts. A decent shop would just sand-blast and paint or zinc coat the thing and put it back on - you are talking maybe 2 hours shop time plus $50 to have it zinc plated. Nowhere near $400. There is no gasket on the pan. It's RTV. Use ultra-grey. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 This has probably been covered but make SURE it's the oil pan. A baffle plate leak (very common) looks like an oil pan leak - especially when the pan is rusty. And you gotta pull the engine or trans to fix the baffle plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommymc Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 Well I cleaned the whole pan off, and it's only rusted in the front. The rear of it where all the oil was is solid. It's leaking from either the seal around the pan or something above and to the rear. I'm not worried about a small leak at this point unless it gets a lot worse. I think for now I'll try to treat the rust and just keep an eye on things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 This has probably been covered but make SURE it's the oil pan. A baffle plate leak (very common) looks like an oil pan leak - especially when the pan is rusty. And you gotta pull the engine or trans to fix the baffle plate. Baffle plate leaking. Need to pull enigne or trans to fix. Mostly annoying and some burnt oil smell. You can search around here for "baffle plate" or "oil seperator platge" and see what a common issue it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommymc Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 If you are straped for cash and the pan isn't leaking but just rusted you may want to try some Por 15. It is some messy stuff but it just paints on and should seal the rust spots up. A lot of people on the diesel forums that I am on swear by it to repair rusted oil pans. Looks like it might be just what I need. I tried find it at Advance Auto and Tractor Supply but neither of them carry it. I can order it online, but I wonder if you know of likely sources locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I think I saw POR-15 in some of my air cooled VW catalogs and a few antique specialty tool catalogs. I just order it direct from the manufacturer in New Jersey but it's been a while. I'm attempt to look online they may have their own webpage. But I'd still think it's the baffle plate that's leaking. Use excellent ventilation when using the POR-15 - you can catch a buzz easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommymc Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 Thanks Dave, I found the website online. If the stuff is as good as it claims, I've got a lot of other uses for it too. I agree with you, the leak isn't coming from the oil pan. The whole front of it is really rusty though, so I'm thinking an ounce of prevention here. In VT at least, I'm told they rust through a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I use it when restoring antique's. FLoor pans and such. But it can make you "loopey". I did the pan on a 63 bug. All windows removed, both doors open, did it outside, 20" box fan on a milk crate beside me. Dumped it out, pushed it around, 10 minutes tops. When complete I had trouble standing up. I was definately buzzed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 If you have a local NAPA store try them for the Por-15, at least they have it here in Colorado. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.