So I was told by the best vehicle AC specialists in town that my compressor is dead. I went to my own auto shop that I trust a lot and they said that the specialist is indeed the best and if they are telling me that then it's true. Plus that is where they take their own personal cars for AC work.

 

Specialist wants around $1000 to replace. $78 an hr. labor + plus the compressor kit (compressor, receiver-drier, various parts) & freon.

 

I don't have $1000 to spend on this car and even if I did, the car isn't worth much more than that, I imagine. I plan to keep the car forever, as my only vehicle.

 

So do I just go on from here w/out AC or can someone help me out as far as getting the AC parts replaced, filled with freon and back to top performance again? There is zero freon in it right now, it was all drained out.

 

I can pay but since I am retired & on Social Security it would not be near what the AC shop is asking.

 

Can anyone in SW WA or the Portland OR area help me?

 

Thank you

I could help you with that. except for the freon bit.. but r34 works if done right. I've done a few retro fittings that are working really good.. id do it for cheep.. like.. way cheep.. Let me know if your interested

i have a good A/C compressor from an 86 turbo sedan im removing all of the A/C stuff from under the hood you can have it all for 40 bucks tis would be everything exept the lines. i am in ellensburg wa.

i have a good A/C compressor from an 86 turbo sedan im removing all of the A/C stuff from under the hood you can have it all for 40 bucks tis would be everything exept the lines. i am in ellensburg wa.

 

there ya go! theres a compresser.. i have all the lines and stuff subaruguru isnt including..

Man I wish I still had the extra AC pump I got off a turbo brat a while back, would be yours free if I still had it. (No idea how good it was though) I am in a similar dilemma, I want to have my AC recharged, but I also would like the on-board air set-up.

 

Probably going to do the on-board air thing if anything at all, good luck, sounds like a couple people here are able to help.

you could run two pumps with some specail brackit might kill an ea82 but an ej oh the ideas

True, but you know what is really got me thinking after my soda blaster project is getting a 10lb+ CO2 fire extinguisher from the same guy and using it to fill tires on the trail. I would just need to add fittings & hose and fill it up with liquid CO2. No fuss with all the things needed to make the compressor work.

 

Now back on topic hehe.

that sucks but it sounds easier than my ac. i get to dig arround in my dash to replace the expansion valve, only thing is i dont think the current radiator can handle cooling the car and the a/c heat from the condencer after what i found out today....hmmm

 

it may be dual core time

i have a good A/C compressor from an 86 turbo sedan im removing all of the A/C stuff from under the hood you can have it all for 40 bucks tis would be everything exept the lines. i am in ellensburg wa.

 

Thank you for that offer. I'm definitely up for it but we live far apart. If I could get it w/out the transportation of the parts not costing a lot, I'll take it. Is the receiver/dryer included?

 

Anyone with some ideas of how to get this stuff to me? Or close to me?

 

I could help you with that. except for the freon bit.. but r34 works if done right. I've done a few retro fittings that are working really good.. id do it for cheep.. like.. way cheep.. Let me know if your interested

 

Yes, I am interested. If I can get the parts that another forumite is pulling out of his turbo. Chehalis is pretty close to me.

 

IM me your email address, if you wouldn't mind.

 

Thanks.

True, but you know what is really got me thinking after my soda blaster project is getting a 10lb+ CO2 fire extinguisher from the same guy and using it to fill tires on the trail. I would just need to add fittings & hose and fill it up with liquid CO2. No fuss with all the things needed to make the compressor work.

 

Now back on topic hehe.

 

(excellent idea)

hmmm where you live? maby someone or i can deliver them yes everything will go with just no lines. Rob.

 

hmmm where you live? maby someone or i can deliver them yes everything will go with just no lines. Rob.

 

I live in the Longview/Kelso area. I can drive to meet someone, say up to 75, maybe even 100 miles, one way.

bump

Hey, I can go pick the parts up if you give me gas money.

 

That is if Subaruguru is up for it..

im up for it. just let me know when you could come by

 

Hey, I can go pick the parts up if you give me gas money.

 

That is if Subaruguru is up for it..

 

Wow, that's great offer. IM me and we'll discuss.

I can hook you up on the refrigerant. I'd recommend and R12A conversion. This can be done with just a regular set of manifold guages. If you go that route, I recommend also using R12A system seal which helps to seal any pin hole leaks. And, since you are reusing a receiver/drier, I also recommend an R12A chemical dessicant. These systems call for 1.74 lbs of R12 which converts to ~10 oz of R12A. The chemical dessicant will run $31.68, The system seal is $33.02. Each of those contains 4 oz of refrigerant. Technically, you'd need another can of refrigerant ($13), but you'd have to waste about 4 oz of it.

 

On the other hand, if you replace the receiver/drier, that'll cost you about $60 or so at napa. Doing so saves you the $31.68 in dessicant and allows you to put a whole can of refrigerant in the system with out wasting. And, really, replacing the receiver/drier with a new unit is THE way to go. You need to keep moisture out of the system as much as you possibly can.

This is a shot in the dark, most wrecking yards have freon recovery units and have to pay to get rid of the freon that they recover to certified recycler. Theres an off chance that one or more of the wrecking yards around MAY possibly be willing to recharge your system. Just have to call around and ask.

I can hook you up on the refrigerant. I'd recommend and R12A conversion. This can be done with just a regular set of manifold guages. If you go that route, I recommend also using R12A system seal which helps to seal any pin hole leaks. And, since you are reusing a receiver/drier, I also recommend an R12A chemical dessicant. These systems call for 1.74 lbs of R12 which converts to ~10 oz of R12A. The chemical dessicant will run $31.68, The system seal is $33.02. Each of those contains 4 oz of refrigerant. Technically, you'd need another can of refrigerant ($13), but you'd have to waste about 4 oz of it.

 

On the other hand, if you replace the receiver/drier, that'll cost you about $60 or so at napa. Doing so saves you the $31.68 in dessicant and allows you to put a whole can of refrigerant in the system with out wasting. And, really, replacing the receiver/drier with a new unit is THE way to go. You need to keep moisture out of the system as much as you possibly can.

 

I think you mean R134A, R12 is super expensive and you cannot buy it without a license.

 

 

There are flush kits to clean out any moisture in an old system, also.

 

I think you mean R134A, R12 is super expensive and you cannot buy it without a license.

 

 

There are flush kits to clean out any moisture in an old system, also.

 

The AC place I went to was going to use R12 in mine.

 

I'm getting very confused. LOL

 

I don't mind buying a new receiver/dryer. I want to get as close to stock and factory new condition as I can, but not pay more than the car is worth to do so. Do I need a receiver/dryer/accumulator or just the r/d?

 

I already have brand new hoses (installed).

The AC place I went to was going to use R12 in mine.

 

I'm getting very confused. LOL

 

I don't mind buying a new receiver/dryer. I want to get as close to stock and factory new condition as I can, but not pay more than the car is worth to do so. Do I need a receiver/dryer/accumulator or just the r/d?

 

I already have brand new hoses (installed).

 

R12 is FAR superior to that R134a crap.

 

R12 is FAR superior to that R134a crap.

 

That's what I've been hearing. I don't want to retrofit anything, want stock all the way.

I think you mean R134A, R12 is super expensive and you cannot buy it without a license.

 

 

There are flush kits to clean out any moisture in an old system, also.

 

No, actually, I mean R12A. Please note the "A". R12A refrigerant is cheap. I know this because I sell it in my shop.

 

As for "flush kits", its very difficult to flush all the moisture out of a system if you then open it back up to atmo when you attach your manifold guages. Having said that, a flush kit is DEFINITELY advisable if the compressor has died and spewed little bits of itself all through the system. However, if that is the case, it becomes even MORE advisable to replace the receiver/drier as that is the FIRST place crap will accumulate.

No, actually, I mean R12A. Please note the "A". R12A refrigerant is cheap. I know this because I sell it in my shop.

 

As for "flush kits", its very difficult to flush all the moisture out of a system if you then open it back up to atmo when you attach your manifold guages. Having said that, a flush kit is DEFINITELY advisable if the compressor has died and spewed little bits of itself all through the system. However, if that is the case, it becomes even MORE advisable to replace the receiver/drier as that is the FIRST place crap will accumulate.

 

Pardon my small thread hijack, but what is the difference between R12 and R12A?