TRAVIS75

I went all out when I bought them, even got the 5th for a spare.

Very impressed with them! No extra road noise, no change in turning radius, no rubbing. All bonuses!

I received them on last friday and had them installed on Monday. Much to my surprise, I notice no difference in noise, and even the ride feels the same. We've had a bunch of snow recently, and despite the best efforts of the plow crews for the city. Many stretches of road have many many areas that the snow is frozen into ruts and big chunks. I've hit these with my previous street tires I had on, as well as these ones I just received and they actually handle the crappy stuff better. Overall, I'm very impressed with them.

Just got them today, they look exactly like the tire pictured on Amazon. Looking forward to getting them mounted up!

Yeah I did see that note on them. They have a speed rating of 93 which is "supposed to be" up to 99mph. I drive 6 miles a day to and from work, it is a paved road, but has a posted speed limit of 45 mph. They just arrived today, amazingly all 5 showed up on the same day, a week late, but at least they are all here. Just in time for the 6-12"s of snow were supposed to get by the end of tomorrow.

Have you or anyone you know ran these Forceum tire? I've been looking at them for about a month now, but I've never run anything but factory size tires on my 89 gl. Hesitant only because I'm not sure if they would rub, I have a driveway that has a rather extreme angle you have to take to enter the road.

I had a friend who sent me a photo of some awesome looking tires, by far the most aggressive I've seen available. They are the Forceum and they are a 165/80/13 8 ply tire. Feel free to look them up. My question is, has anybody on here ran these, and if so were there any mods that needed to be done for them to not rub? I'm looking to run them on a 89 gl wagon. I've never run any size other that factory to date on any of the 3 subies I've got. Just looking for some input or thoughts. Thanks and have a great day!

I will check this out, thank you. Do you happen to have a part number for it. The only place I've checked so far is rock auto. They have a number of different ones listed, but it isn't clear to me which one is which based on their description. Or a recommendation for where to get one.

I've been battling the staring up of my 89 gl non turbo since the weather has turned colder. And was nearly impossible to get started and keep running last week at deer camp, when at its coldest it was 6 degrees. I've been pointed in the direction of a temp control sensor, but was also told there were possibly 2, one that goes to your gauge, and one that actually feeds info to the ecm. My gauge works fine, so I believe it gets its info from the one on the thermostat housing (but do correct me if I'm wrong). But I'm not sure where to look for or even what the second one looks like, if anyone has a link that could show me a picture, or a part number or both that would be great. I have a difficult time with our local napa when it comes to getting the correct part, they always ask if its the Subaru 1.8, and yes that's what it has for an engine, but that's not the only years obviously. 4 tries to get a correct axle shaft, and they got it wrong all 4 times. We live in a rural area, and don't have a ton of options for parts stores here. Any insight would be greatly appreciated as elk season starts soon, and I don't foresee it getting any warmer anytime soon. Thanks in advance.

I wasn't attempting to stop it, once the level of power steering fluid got low enough that it slowed to a drip, I was simply touching a rag to various spots along the hose until the drip stopped or significantly slowed even further, in an attempt to figure out where along the line the leaked was. I am going bear the cold and replace it before we head out of town this weekend.

That is what it looked like to me as well, however for as far as I can reach down, I can't seem to stop the leak, or slow it down putting a rag around the hose, I was going to replace it end to end, I have a feeling it rubbed through somewhere.

Been awhile since I've had to post a question, which is a good thing, means no problems. I've still got an 89 gl wagon, ea82, m/t, non turbo, d/r. On the day we were to return from Spokane, to Omak, after thanksgiving festivities. I walked outside to discover a huge puddle under my car, oil level was good, checked power steering fluid, it was low. I had a quart, put it in and immediately it started peeing it right back out. Went to walmart, bought 6 quarts, got back an put some more in hoping I could easily see where exactly the hose had worn through, couldn't be lucky enough to see it, of course I'm to damn big to get far enough under to look very well. I took my chances bought another six quarts at the gas station when I filled up and hoped it would make the 130 mile journey home. After my 4th quart, I discovered that other than not having power steering when it was low, the pump wasn't making any noise when driving (don't understand that) and it wasn't until I put enough in that it would start leaking from wherever and down on to my exhaust and making quite the smoke show, that it would start to make noise. So I just stopped putting it in. I now have the complete hose from a local wrecking yard, they had one stripped down already so it didn't take them any time to get me one, my question is, am I going to have to remove a bunch of stuff to get at where the lines hook up to the steering gear/rack, I know the ones on top are obviously very accessible where they come out of the reservoir. I've got a shop I might be able to use in a week or 2 if its going to take long, (cold as hell here right now). Problem is we use this car to take my son to special Olympics sporting events and I need to head out Sunday. Its only a 90 mile trip to where I'm going so I wouldn't be far from home, but if its not going to require a big dismantle to get at the steering rack end of it, I may just tough it out and by a bunch of hand warmers LOL. Thanks folks

Anybody? Thanks in advance

I'm on the verge of getting what I hope is going to be a great deal on yet another Subaru. This will only be the 2nd of 5 that I've owned that has the 2.2. This one is a 90 legacy 4 dr sedan, m/t fwd. The fwd part is the biggest downside to the entire deal. Its got 163,000 on it, needs axle shafts and tires. Which leads me to my question. Currently has 175/70/14. I work at a wrecking yard and we get tires in all the time, however this isn't a common size. All I've found so far is a set of 185 65 14's and a set of 185 75 14's. Being a fwd, its not like we will be out Baja'ing it. However its a very sharp turn to get into and out of my driveway from the main road, so I need to be careful of the rubbing aspect. In your expert opinions, would either of these sets be ok? If I can get some good tires on it, and figure out why the taillights won't shut off when I turn the key off, I will be a very happy man for only spending 250 to buy this car.

Now theres something I didn't think of

Not to knock Snap On, great product. But they probably want 150.00 for the socket, and for all the more often plugs have to be changed I am pretty sure no matter how handy it would be, I could never justify it to the check book>(wife)

Okay, so here is where I am at. Replaced plugs and wires, cap and rotor. Also did the thermostat and gasket since she had no heat. Also did the oil change. This did make a noteable difference, couple of things I have found while I was poking around under the hood. I don't have pictures yet, but I am working on it, I don't have internet at home, and am learning the intricate workings of a digital camera and then loading the pictures, for now....a description. I found a vacuum line on the passenger side of the vehicle towards the mid engine that had been disconnected, it runs to a number of other vacuum lines via t's about 4 inches to the left of the intake manifold, lines t off and go several directions from this. Easiest one to describe from memory is it heads straight to the firewall and plugs into a canister that is whitish colored and resembles a large coffee cup. If I reconnect this vacuum line the car starts and idles fine, but once it gets warm, it bogs down and dies and I have to floor it to start again, it will rev up fine, but dies upon letting off the gas. However with it disconnected it idles just fine when its warm. There is a distinct hiss from the port when its disconnected. When its warmed up, I can put my finger over the port that is hissing, and it will stumble and start to die, take my finger off, revs right back up. Opposite side of the engine, again another vacuum line that had been previously disconnected and plugged, I removed the plug and reconnected the line, haven't noticed a difference in idle warm or cold, but with it connected, the check engine light went off. I did do a compression test on all 4 cylinders, compression was between 150 and 155, not sure how long you do a leak down test for, but I left it connected for about 2 minutes on each cylinder and lost nothing on any of them. That's all for now until I get some pics for you guys. One tip I learned on changing these plugs, I swear it seems like there was way more chit in the way on this a/t turbo than my manual non turbo. Out of the 3 tool boxes in the shop, not a single guy had a plug socket that still had the rubber in it. This car was built by Japanese, and though I'm not Japanese I do resemble a sumo wrestler, not a small guy. Not lots a room to get the drivers side plugs lined up, I found that stuffing the plug into a chunk of hose, gave me a MUCH better chance of getting the plug started. Never would have thought of it had I not used the compression tester. Anyways, I'm sure I'm not the only big guy who's ran into problems with getting you arm where it needs to be.

Good tip, I will search out what these components look like and see if I can actually locate them and perhaps order new ones.

Not sure on this wire, exactly where to look for it, or which wire it would be. The check engine light is on now, once I do the tune up, I am going to see if I can track down the diagnostic code sheet for this, I printed it once years ago for one of my other subarus but have know idea where it is now.

Pardon my limited knowledge, what is the CTS. Just like testing the compression in each cylinder? I am going to do that since a friend loaned me his compression tester.

My wife has a 89 gl wagon awd a./t, turbo. She just informed me that she has had to hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor to get her car to start. This being a non carb'd model, I'm not sure why. It left her stranded at the grocery store couple days ago and I had it towed to work. Charged the battery last night since she cranked on it for so long it was nearly dead. I went to try and start it this morning, and true to what she said, it won't start unless you floor the thing. I got all the stuff today for doing a basic tune up. Plugs wires cap rotor etc. etc. I am not going to hold my breath that this is going to be my cure all, but its going to be a start, while I've got this in our shop tomorrow, anything else I should look at as a possible culprit. I've never had this issue on any other Subaru I've owned. But they were all manuals, and non-turbo (don't know if this particular issue has any bearing on that). I will be hittin it in the morning.

Do you have a specific application I could try looking up here at work and see if we have one at our yard, or if I can locate one through another wrecking yard.

So he should be able to take this one I have on an 86 here at work and use it is what it sounds like. He will be happy.

So is it a hitachi then that is most likely currently on it? If I go into our computer and look up a carb for say, an 84 it actually asks you if its a hitachi or a weber. In order for him to go to a weber, would he then need one off of an older (84 or so)? And forgive my ignorance, but what does the USDM stand for? Most all the research and reading I've ever done on here only pertained to my generation of soobs. Again thanks for the info

I've got a guy here that I work with that I am slowly converting into a soobaholic. He just purchased a very straight 85 gl, with a d/r m/t. The previous owner said his daughters boyfriend decided to play backyard mechanic and take the carburetor apart to clean it. Upon "reassembling" something didn't go right. Runs like crap was the best description the previous owner could give. I work at a wrecking yard and our computer system shows that an 85 for whatever reason is all by itself in re-guards to the carb. I never would have thought that, and have my doubts about how true that is. We have one for an 86, would that one or any other year work? And is there possibly anybody out there who may have a known working one that this gentleman could purchase. I have nothing for carbureted soobs in my collection everything I have is 89 or newer. Thanks in advance