TRAVIS75

Would definately be interested in doing that even, anything to broaden the horizons of tire and wheel selection

Well its not carb'd, but I have seafoamed in the tank as well as through brake vacuum line to get it directly into throttle body. Same ol same ol. Needs a windshield, gonna do that. Really interested in doing the 5 lug conversion, 13's are just getting harder and harder to come by, not sure if that can fit into the 500 dollar budget, but when I figure out how to do it, its something I'm definately going to do. I've got a couple sets of 235/70/15's for my Nissan truck that would look awesome. How much of a lift would I have to do to make those fit? Man, doesn't take long to blow through 500 bucks once you start a wish list LOL!

Dont think I can get a reman for 500, definately would if I could find one though! As far as the down shifting, I can be going up a hill in second and at 35mph, it still pings. And I have tried different octanes, and every brand available in our area. Don't have a timing light, but I have messed with advancing and retarding in very small increments till I got it to "optimum" performance (basically where it doesn't ping on flat ground LOL) I wouldn't trade either of my subes for any other equal year car thats for sure. I've got another spare engine that I actually heard run at our wrecking yard hear at work, had good even compression, I may try and learn how to reseal these engines, I would think it could be done for less than 500.

Thats exactly why I've never done an ej swap, I can't wire. Going up hills with 185 70 13's and it pings to beat all hell. I've messed with the timing, plugs caps rotors, vacuum lines, different grades of fuel, injector cleaners, sea foam, o2 sensor, cat, etc etc...when they get to 250k I guess you can't expect miracles LOL. My newest one, also an 89 theres nothing I need to do on the body, 113k on it, one owner clean interior, had a rebuilt engine in it that blew up and got a hole in it. I've put another engine in it, unknown mileage from another wrecking yard, had compression of 165,169, 172 175 (or so I was told). Hopefully I'll finish the exhaust this weekend, and perhaps it will perform at a level that I could justify the lift and bigger tires. Hence the title of "If ya had an extra $500.." Unfortunately I don't live in an area where with in an hour or so drive I've got SUBERSTUDS (like that word just made it up LOL) who know everything there is to know about subes to help me out in person. I just have the forum, and a desire to tinker with one of if not the best cars in the world, I've only been at it for 3 years, but I love'm

I would think you'd just about have to ej it to turn 27's. I'm almost 100% sure that in its current state, neither of my ea82's could do much unless I was going down hill. I've long wanted to do the swap, at least get a wiring harness set up for it. I work at a wrecking yard I've got access to the parts, but me and wiring is like Helen Keller and open heart surgery LOL.

Lets say you've got something like an 89 wagon, dl or gl, m/t non turbo, and an extra 500 bucks laying around to do some mod's or upgrades, just what would you do?

Haven't check the price of new ones, I can't say much about what type of things the previous driver may have done with this car. I would speculate that it was well maintained, based on the condition and mileage of the car. Theres not a single stain on the interior and body is A+. But obviously torn rear boots contradict perfect maintanence LOL!

We have lifts up in our dismantling shop, so that won't be a problem. I'm not even gonna mess with changing the boots, who knows how much dirt and crap is in the existing grease, we've got other used axles shafts out in the yard, I'm just gonna find some with good boots on it and replace both sides.

I'm not suggesting that something has to be out of whack for this to happen, I just want to make sure before I replace both of them (since i've never done it, and I'm not sure how hard it is) that I'm not throwing money into something thats going to do it again in 5,000 miles. I would just as soon fix the cause while I'm at it. If the general consensus is that its just one of those things that needs to be done with no known reason for why its tore both boots on both sides, then I'll do it and not worry about it and just do it. It just struck me as weird for them both to have torn boots on both sides, on a vehicle with such low mileage, when the current one I'm driving has had the living %$&* driven out of it and both of them are still good.

Not saying it can't be done, there are definately places that will risk it, the only way we take something like that is if its got a junk vehicle report. Alot of places have crushers on site, and can crush as soon as its brought in, whether they process it or not. Back to the task at hand though, I doubt that anyone is going to try and sell it for scrap, keep the faith, and cross our fingers, it will show up.

I've only really ever driven one subaru, but for the last few months I've been putting another back together piece by piece. The one I currently drive is an 89 DL wagon, 4x4 mt d/r. I know its notorious for the front cv axles to go out, especially in my circumstance where when I pull out of my drive way, I HAVE to turn it all the way right to avoid ending up in oncoming traffic (drive way is angled funky), anyways, I'm on about my 3rd used right axle shaft, I'm okay with that, its expected. However I've never in 180k had a rear axle shaft boot rip on this thing. So the one I'm putting together now, only has 121k on it, but both rear axle boots are torn, is there something I should look at that may have caused this, or is it possible its just due to the way the previous owner drove it. This car from what I can tell was very well maintained (of course the exception being these axle shafts) interior is immaculate, had a rebuilt motor in it that ended up with a hole in the block, hence me getting it.

With out trying to veer to far off subject, I work at a wrecking yard, and we crush about 3 times a year, that being said. Any respectable wrecking yard is supposed to have a title in hand when a vehicle is brought in. However there are ways around it, having the local, county or state look at the vehicle and declare it a junk vehicle (junk vehicle report) is sufficient to have a vehicle in your impound or wrecking yard to be crushed. The upside to this is, unless the officer is in a hurry, or just plain disreguarding standard procedure, it is required that they run the vin to make sure it hasn't been reported stolen. When we get junk vehicle reports, or any vehicle for that matter, into our yards, we go through a procedure online to make sure that everything is legit, every vehicle that passes through out gate with in hours has to have an inventory number on it, with that number if the state patrol shows up, we can show documentation on who or where we got it from, how much we paid, whether it is set to be crushed, or used for parts, this is SUPPOSED to be how every yard in Washington State operates, but there are always those fly-by-night ones that pop up every time scrap metal prices go up, they set up a crusher at some sight, and crush as they come in, then pack up and move. Best of luck to you.

I spent years repairing and rebuilding starters and alternators for a local company. As a general rule, when the regulator goes bad the alternator quits working completely, it says in your post that it is charging at 17 or 18 volts, when and if it is truly charging this high, it won't cause your battery light to turn on, it only comes on if the alternator is not charging, not because of excessive voltage. The first thing you need to do is check the "actual" voltage if you haven't already. Get a digital or analog volt meter and check the voltage at the battery, as well as the main output wire off the back of the alternator, both voltages should be relatively close, within say .2v. Anything above 14.6 or below 14.0 is nearing the out of normal range. If those voltages are the same, check the voltage leading to your volt meter on the dash, again should be about the same, if its not, then there is a problem with the wiring leading into that part of the harness leading to your in dash volt meter, this is true whether the voltage is reading higher or lower. My guess, and its completely a guess since I'm not familiar with all the wiring on these vehicles, is that your "idiot light" on the dash isn't receiving correct info in regards to whether it is charging, which again points to wiring. The easiest solution before you start chasing wires is to pull it, take it in and have it tested, ya never know it could be in that 1 percent of alternator failures that actually go into "full field" (overcharge) mode before complete failure.

Ya got eastern washington keepin an eye out for ya too.

Just about everything we get into our yard has 250k on it, which makes me feel good when I buy one with 175k on it, at least I know that they ARE capable of lasting until that type of mileage (unless someone fails to negotiate a tree) in which case, we get it.

Good lord I'd love to find something with 62k on it. Great find!!!

I just jumped on the forklift and put my spare one on our scale, its 240#'s but thats with it sitting on a 1/2 pallet and a tire...figure 225, with no flexplate or flywheel, heads and everything else is still attached.

I worked for many many years repairing and rebuilding starters and alternators, on an externally regulated alternator (such as yours is) 99.9 percent of the time is going to be the regulator, the alternator is just the "yes man" in the equation, it does what the regulator says to do, and in your case at 16v, its asking it to do too much and will cause failure of the alternator, and can burn up wiring, cause expansion in your battery (heat from excessive high voltage vs. plates in a battery welded in stationary position) the plates bend and bulge in to each other when they touch they short out so to speak causing a defective battery. As a side note, check the voltage at your battery as well as at the back of alternator, voltages should all be with in .2 to .4 volts, could be getting a false reading on your gauge.

This comment is meant purely as a joke, so anyone who is from Omak (I was born here)don't be offended, but some people from Omak can't even spell emissions, so I'm not worried about it LOL! I know that I could have one built, but the key is the lack of money. I will post in the WTB. But first I'll send a PM to scoobywagon. I do work at a wrecking yard, and it is illegal to sell cats to anyone but a certified core buyer. There are however less than reputable that still sell cats, I however don't have access to all the inventory of these yards like I do most others. The problem I'm running into with both our inventory as well as the invetory of other yards is, when they cut the cat out, they cut it at the beginning of the Y on each side, instead of the where the 2 pipes come together just before the cat.

I've talked in other posts about this subaru that I got with 130k on it. Its an 89 GL wagon 4x4 D/R. I put an engine in it over the weekend the original one had been rebuilt, and after about 2k on it blew up and put a hole in the block, the guy that had it, dumped it at a wrecking yard to be crushed. It was way to straight to see that happen, only 130k on it. Now to the question, when they go to the wrecking yard, the first thing they do here in Washington is cut the cats off of them. As is the case in mine. I'm not concerned with putting one back in. However the previous owner had put in some mickey mouse make shift Y pipe. It was just round pipe with a flange. On the drivers side, the angle wasn't right and only had one stud in it, due to the fact that there is a 1/4 inch gap where the other stud is missing. He used cardboard as a gasket. I'm not putting this back on needless to say. What I am looking for is either a used one, or a place to get new, preferably used, don't care if there is a cat on it or not, just as long as there is enough pipe to run that temp flexible pipe from the Y to the remaining exhaust. I'm on a pretty tight budget so any other ideas would be appreciated as well.

Well I may have finally found an answer to my own question. I was looking through the subaru stuff to sell and a post by nocashrider has pictures of the exact same heads, it was posted on 3/19/09. If anyone wants to look at the pics the post was titled "E71 heads valve job and machined ready to go on" as stated earlier its posted by nocashrider. I'd rather sell these to someone in the USMB that to just anyone who calls in, so if someone wants these and can come up with a price they would be willing to pay for them, I won't put them in inventory yet, just let me know.

These heads that we got into our wrecking yard arrived via a junk dodge van that we pikced up. In the back was 2 rebuilt heads for a subaru. We also picked up a subaru at this same location but it has no engine in it. Its a 1976 DL, M/T. I'm assuming that these heads were at one point and time for this subaru but I don't know. There's no casting numbers on these heads, only thing stamed on it is E71, not EA71 just E71. I'd like to get these ID'd so we can get them sold, I"m sure someone out there would like to get their hands on these. They pre-date anything I've got, and nearly pre-date me LOL. When I look up heads for this subaru we got in, it asks a few questions, MT or AT, Federeal or California Emissions. I've got the MT part down, but unlike most vehicles this one doesn't have the tag under the hood that says This vehicle conforms to all federal and california emisssions. So I that sets me back a little further in getting this ID'd. Any help would be appreciated.

Is there no way to ID these? Surely there must be someone out there who would possibly be interested in these. We don't even have any subarus out in our yard old enough for me to even compare them too.

Okay, so at my work (salvage yard) we just picked up 2 junk vehicles. In the back of one of these vehicles were 2 either rebuilt or brand new heads, guessing rebuilt. There are absolutely no casting numbers on these heads, just simply E71. So I know its a much older generation, can someone tell me how to ID exactly what these would fit so I can get them inventoried wrong. I wish I had an older subaru that these would fit, both of mine are EA82's. If I don't respond right away its because I'm on my computer at work and don't have the internet at home.

If your in good graces with any wrecking yards, they have recovery units. I had made the mistake of not thinking when I had to swap my engine, and I didn't just set the compressor off to the side. I'd never in my life swapped an engine in anything in my life and just wasn't thinking just got flustered and loosened up the line and let it go, certainly not what I was expecting don't know if I had expected some sort of a check valve or what, just wasn't thinking. Anyways drove around for a year with very little residual freon in it. Last year I finally brought it to our wrecking yard and had them pump out what little bit there was left in it. Went to Walmart and bought a R134a kit for it (bought 35.00) came with 2 bottles of R134a and an adapter kit for filling it (fittings for R12 are different size than for the R134). Took about 15 minutes, I've had good cold A/C every since. I'm 99% sure that this isn't the appropriate way to do this, but considering I had nothing to start with, but i've got good a/c now to me it was worth it. Just wish I hadn't been a ********************* and not thought through the whole scenario that led up to me screwing up the ozone in the first place:mad: