TRAVIS75

I am thinking I will do it the engine way this time, the engine I have in there in the last 2 weeks has started leaking about a quart every 6 days, you can sit and watch while it drips after driving it a few miles, its also developed a ping, even when driving on flat ground, no power when i'm at a higher elevation, have to put it in 4 low to pull the slightest grade in the mountains, no bueno with hunting season in a couple weeks. I picked up a spare motor here at work from another wrecking yard, to my surprise it looks like a recent rebuild, or somebody spent a lot of time cleaning it up and painting it grey, figure now is as good of time as any to swap it out. Could a plugged cat be part of the pinging and lack of power in higher elevations?

I did put that it was d/r, but when I used Napa pro link, it never asked the size, just showed 2 spline counts, I called them, and from what they told me, the 21 spline is for fwd, 24 is for 4wd. Oreilly's gave me a number KF475-01, but it was a 21 spline, they didn't show a 24 option. I will just order an 8" 24 spline. Appreciate the input, thanks everybody

So the consensus then is that it should be a 24 spline, I checked at Oreilly's and all they came up with was that it was supposed to be a 21 spline, they didn't even have a listing for a 24 spline for my application.

Looking like I need to replace the clutch on my 89gl d/r sub. That or it needs adjusted. Not sure. My question is, when I look it up on Napa Pro Link here at work it comes up with 2 different clutches, a 21 spline and a 24 spine, huge different in price. And though I've replaced one once before its been a few years and needless to say I don't remember. I called napa and had them look it up, and it was saying that one of the 2 was for an xt, I wouldn't think they would have the same clutch, but I don't know. And while I'm asking, what is the most popular method of changing the clutch. The one that I did, I just changed it because I was converting from push button 4x4 to dual range and figured it was as good as time as any to do it. However, seems to me possible doing it by removing engine would be easier. Thoughts?

Most likely last post on this particular post, just wanted to give it some "closure". One of the notes I had made a reference to the leak that had sprung up on me. I found a hose that runs from the top of the water pump under the compressor bracket and curves to connect to what I am assuming is a hard line related to my heater core. It was very soft and only seemed to really let loose on the antifreeze after getting it up to temp, and then if I let it set for about 2 minutes, poof big puff of steam and then I could watch the antifreeze follow the brackets under the alternator and run right down the center of the timing cover. Replaced it with a form fitted one from napa, drove all over in the mountains this weekend and barely had to add more than a teaspoon of antifreeze, vs. the half gallon I had to put in every time I went far enough for it to get up to op temp. Thanks again to all of you for your help

Okay, thanks for all the input guys. Here is what I found. Not sure what exactly it is but it fixed it. Under the hood there is small perhaps 3 or 4 inch x 1 inch black box (looks like a fuse holder) and its mounted to the coolant reservoir. It has a top on it that doesn't give any type of identification as to whats inside it. When I pop the top off, it had what looks to me like 4 fusible links, when I inspected those I found the rear most one had corroded through and broken off. I went out into our yard pulled one out and after work stuck it in and voila, fuel pump started working. Needless to say, considering all the other possibilities, I'm thrilled. And thank you guys very much for your input. Next thing to conquer is the blinking power light 16 times, and the leak, and I will be golden!

I've read the reference to the green diagnostic wires in some other posts. I'm not a small guy by a long shot lol, so I tried to cheat and just go out to a similar (90 loyale) and look at one that already had most of the dash taken apart, I guess i'm just not seeing the 2 wires were talking about, is it 2 individual wires not currently plugged into anything else and just need plugged into each other?

So these would be 2 individual wires not currently connected to anything, and connect them to each other? Did I understand that right?

Researching a problem that has developed. Driving back to town from a camping trip to reload on supplies and my 89 gl auto awd 4spd start bucking and sputtering when under a load, would rev up fine when it just sat under no load. Battery went dead so I suspect an alternator is part of the problem. I figured the voltage got low enough that it couldn't supply the need volts to run ecu fuel pump etc etc. When I got it towed home, I put another battery in it and now it cracks but won't start, I hear nothing from the rear frame where the pump is, i'm guessing pump or relay. Guess my question is, are the turbo and non turbo pumps the same. I work at a wrecking yard, and the Hollander system says they are different. And of course they are few and far between as far as what I can see when I look it up on our computer system. I know sub's are the legos of the automotive world, so it seems surprising to me that something as simple as an inline fuel pump would vary, but maybe turbos need more or less pressure or the fittings are different. This thing also sprung a leak, don't know for sure if its head gasket or cracked head, seems to me I've read a number of times, that all heads are cracked on these for the most part, and I've got 2 other 89's that are both manuals, that I know have cracks in the head, but they don't leak externally like this one has started to do. And again, Hollander says the heads are non interchangeable. And the last thing is, very difficult to find an engine for the turbo, I have a spare non turbo that I've kept around for one of my other 89's, is it a straight up swap, my computer system says the ecu's are different.

Well I'd love to, unfortunately, it developed a problem, began leaking coolant at a much quicker pace than I was comfortable with especially with as far out in the boonies as I was. And then on the way back, it started cutting out and sputtering. As long as I was at an idle it was fine, but it wouldn't accelerate when in gear. Got it towed back into town, battery was dead. Put another battery in it, now it cranks but won't start, I don't hear the fuel pump kick on, and when I remove the fuel filter nothing comes out. So I guess I need to see if there is a fuel pump relay somewhere, preferably with a pic and where its located, gotta start somewhere.

Gotcha, that makes sense.

When I took it out last night after work and "got on it" going up into the mountains, I managed to get the Tick of Death to go away, and yes now that I can no longer hear that there is a definite exhaust leak, sounds like right up by the exhaust man. As far as the AWD light, it doesn't come on at all and that's kinda why I was suspicious as to whether awd was working or not. I will get some more time to tinker with it I guess when I go camping this weekend. I know I could just jack it up and see if all 4 tires spin.

It is all wheel drive, so there is no button to push.

Recently (yesterday) acquired an 89 GL wagon, turbo with a 4 speed auto, and AWD . Currently have 2 other 89's one being a GL and the other a DL both are manuals with d/r. Being my 1st experience with a turbo, is the turbo light only come on when you really get on it, or is it supposed to be lit all the time? Also, is there a way to tell if truly is kicked in. Next question: It appears that all of my gauges work, except for the picture of the car in center of speedo, where it says AWD, that doesn't light up at all, is that an indication that the AWD is not working or does that only light up when it engages the AWD. And lastly, there is a little lit up word saying POWER next to the shift indicator lights, when I start the vehicle that blinks I believe 16 times. I know on my wifes 97 impreza, with the 2.2 auto and awd, that the a/t light blinks about that many times and I've been told that is related to the duty c solenoid, and torque bind, which I did away with by just pulling the rear driveline until I can find a place that actually knows what solenoid I'm talking about. I don't have torque bind issues on this, particular 89 so I don't believe its anything like her 97. I know its a lot of question in one post, perhaps I should have broken it up into separate posts, so my apologies for that.

Well I have the fortune of working for a wrecking yard, so I've got a lift available. What I had stumbled across when looking for info previously on how to replace it, there was a guy who was talking about the clutch packs being taken out, and how he didn't get them put back in the correct order, and a bunch of other stuff that perhaps made it seem more daunting than it is. I wouldn't have a problem with swapping the whole tranny (except for the expense of purchasing one). But the fear of pulling the rear of the tranny and having crap pop loose and having springs flying every where is what I am intimidated by. I've done engine and tranny replacements previously on my 2 other subarus (both 89's one is a gl and one is a dl, both wagons) not too hard especially after doing it a couple times. However those are ea82's and I've never done anything on an ej22. Got any recomendations on where to get a silenoid, I'm sure there are plenty available through various places, but I would rather put a quality one in if I'm going to brave trying to do this on my own. Approximate cost would be great too.

Before I go to the link CNY provided, I just want to answer one of the questions, I haven't shown a flashlight on the dash to see if there is a FWD light and I dont see one, nor does one show up just when I turn the key on.

I must have mis understood what the mechanic was saying. I thought putting the fuse in would basically disable that silenoid, as in, with that silenoid malfunctioning when I put that fuse in, it would disable the malfunctioning silenoid. And no I don't see a FWD light come on anywhere on the dash. I haven't checked out the driveline, I just picked this up at our auction last week, and I haven't had a chance to really look it over. I'm amazed at how quick this car is compared to the 2 89 wagons I have. 218,000 miles on it but it would blow the doors off my other subs.

Going to open a new topic since my previous one started of as a question about security system and gradually made to different topics, and kind of off kilter from where it all started. What I've got is 16 flashes of my automatic trans cooler light (97 impreza coupe AWD), It was pointed out that this is most likely due to I believe it was called the c duty silenoid. Which after doing some research, appears to be beyond my mechanical ability to change myself. So I checked with a local shop here in town and he said he had done one a couple months ago. And as a test to see if it was the silenoid or not, he put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passenger side up against the fire wall. He described this as a way to disable that silenoid and basically make run just in FWD. I did this, and you can still feel a binding when turning slowly on the pavement. So either thats not really whats supposed to happen when you put a fuse in their. Or I have a different problem is my guess. And yes it does still flash 16 times with the fuse in the FWD fuse holder. Any thoughts?

Well I did a little research, it would appear to be beyond the realm of my abilities to replace that. What if any are the consequences of not replacing it? Kind of a tight budget or I would just have a tranny shop do it.

Good call chaz...I actually sat and counted the number of blinks, and sure enough it is 16 flashes. And a perfect description of what it does, when driving slow on the pavement there is what I would describe as a "binding". I was actually going to start a new topic on the flashes, and the binding, not knowing that they were related. So what it the duty c solenoids function, where is it located are the available new or aftermarket, and big question, does anyone have a pic so I know what i'm looking for?

Good to know, and thanks for that link

Okay, I'm glad I took the easy route 1st, wen to the link that ocei77 gave. Took a little bit to locate the exact thread on the site. But once I found it, it was exactly what I needed. The condition of my remote left it looking very little like what it was supposed to. On the face, the subaru emblem was gone, and as I said before, you couldn't read the lock and unlock on it either. About all I could make out on the back was the fact it said USA (which is what initally led me to believe it was perhaps an aftermarket alarm). So I put a new battery in it and it worked. I thank you all, and so does my wife. I have another question, and I may post it as a different post, I will just see what I get for responses. It didn't do this prior to me getting it started the correct way. But now that it is, when I first start it, a/t temp light flashes a number of times, and then stays off. I don't notice any problems with the tranny, as far as slippage or smell anything hot. Any ideas or is it normal?

Well when I looked under the dash, the module that was "clicking" was in fact on OEM subaru keyless entry module, said Subaru right on it. Upside is, when I did the disconnect of the battery and turn the key to the run position and then reconnect the battery, it fired right up. I will say that when I was walking out to do this, in the back of my mind I won't lie, I was thinking there was no way in hell was it going to be that simple. But it was. However, like I feared, when I went back out 30 minutes later, it was the same thing, and had to go through that same process. If I shut it of and then just try and restart it right away, it works, but not if I leave it for an extended period of time.

Oh lord I will love it if thats simple. If that is the case, how do I go about keeping it from going of in the future? Or will it just not re arm itself unless it loses battery power?

Well, for many years I've been posting in the older subaru forum, I've had 4 89 wagons, both gl and dl. I finally moved up in the world by acquiring a 97 impreza 2 door coupe at the auction at the wrecking yard I work at, not my dream subaru, but it is nearly a decade newer than any others I've ever had, and never had a 2.2. I bid on it got it for 525, I only bid on it because it was a DUI impound (at least I knew it was a runner) Here is the problem I am having. It has what appears to be an aftermarket alarm system. But no key fab for disarming it. I have a feeling that is why it won't start with just turning the key. I know nothing about alarms. So I cut the wires to the extremely loud siren under the hood (scared the bejesus out of me when I put a battery in and it went off about 10 inches from my ear), This allowed me to turn the key to the run position and use a screwdriver to jump between the main battery stud on silenoid and the ignition switch terminal on the silenoid. This resulted in it starting. I have to rethink it being an aftermarket alarm, I can hear a constant clicking under the dash and when I crawl and twist myself under there and the clicking is coming from the keyless entry module. The only key fab that I have found in the car the buttons are really worn but it looks like it says lock and unlock, however, neither button does anything when I push them. When I do get the car started it only idled for about 2 minutes and died, every time I start it, it won't stay running unless I give it throttle, and only if I don't rev it up above about 2000 rpms, at which time it starts to spit and sputter and I can smell what I can only describe as "rotten egg smell" under the hood. First experience as I stated before with the newer generation of sub's. Any insight would be helpful, as well. Also any general opinions on this particular model or motor, strengths, weaknesses, durability etc etc. Thanks in advance