TRAVIS75

I've got another 89 gl s/w m/t. This thing is in primo condition, 130k on it, I'd like to do about a 3 inch lift on it. I'm sure the proper place to post this is in the mods, but I'll try here first. Do any forum members have home made lift kits that they sell, and if so, how much. Its something that I am going to eventually do, we got this car into our salvage yard after the guy put a "rebuilt" engine in. 3 months later, it put a whole in the block, and the place he got the engine, conveniantly went out of business. He bought an 09 and we bought his from him for 100 bucks, I got it for 250. Would like to lift it though

I work at a salvage yard, and we have recovery tanks for both r12 and r134. My ac hasn't worked since I did my motor swap (my fault, like a dumb@#$ it didn't occur to me to just unbolt the compressor and set it off to the side I let all the pressure out). Anyways, we hardly ever get r12 in, mostly because cars we get have been wrecked obviously, or the systems were empty and never refilled. I've seen a product calle Freeze12 and its supposed to be universal for both r12 and 134. I've not tried it and haven't really looked for it. After reading the extensive and very fact filled post breaking down differences etc.. of the refrigerants, I have my doubts about how Freeze12 can truly be universal, something in the chemical comound make up of it surely doesn't jive from one to the other. But it is an option. I opted to use our pump (seperate pump than the one used solely for recovery of the freon) to pump out my system. I then went to walmart and they sell a conversion kit, that comes with threaded conversion couplers to pump r134 into your system. They thread on to your existing lines but the nipple end is big enough to fit r134 hoses on. In the kit you get the hi/lo couplers for it, as well as a how to DVD (didn't watch) 3 cans of premixed (oil and 134) freon, as well as a piece you screw on to the top of can that has a a hose, trigger and pressure gauge so you can monitor how much pressure is in the system. I know its not the 100% correct way, and I'll pay in some way down the line most likely, but its worked for 3 months for me, so who knows. The whole kit was 35 bucks.

Thanks guys, I had to make an educated guess yesterday afternoon, well semi educated, i never did graduate high school LOL. I found a parts store that was 45 miles away that had a set of the 3/4's so I sent her up to get them. I like the logic in the larger vehicle taking the 3/4 guess had I stayed in school I'd have figured that out :-\ Luckily after getting one off i found that it was 3/4. I was going to put the 3/4 on anyways to see what happened, it worked anyways. As far as them saying it was 11/16 or 3/4 i think alot of the time they do that because alot of there customers find it easier to measure in standard then metric. I work at a salvage yard and I know alot of times they will ask for the OD of something like a rotor and give you the options in MM's and it never fails, customer will call back give me the measurement, I'll send them the part, 3 days later they call back and measured their MM's wrong. Its just a thought.

Well by the time I got back to reading this post, i'd figured out a different way to do it. Unbolted wheel cylinder and brake line. Pried studs that hold springs out till i could get needle nose plier on them, then twisted it until each spring came off, didn't have a puller so did it the old fashioned way, lots of zep 45 and heat, along with a very persuasive hammer. Once I got it apart i figured out that when the wheel cylinder blew, it made the spring come off to retract the brakes. Basically all I should have had to do is stick a screw driver in and hit the arm/lever inside thats connected to some type of a ridged ratcheting piece and the brakes would have retracted. Just to prove it to myself, i went to other side, pulled the cap, stuck the screw driver in there, and sho' nuf, heard the ratchet release, to 5 minutes to get that side apart, and just a mere 5 vivid cursing hours on the other. But its done, now just have mild whiplash from having brakes that worked so good:lol:

This is my first subaru, hence first time replacing rear brakes. Chiltons book says if rear drum won't come off, you have to remove a cap, and retract the shoe spring, i've got the cap removed, and i can see nothing inside, stick a screw driver in there and it contacts nothing, what do I need to do to retract the shoes on this. Much thanks. Oh its an 89dl station wagon, 4wd d/r...rear drums, m/t

Appreciate it, i can get the parts, they are available, I just need to know with out having car here if theres a way to tell if its got the 11/16 bore or 3/4 bore, and if they will interchange in pairs

Crap...I meant to put that in there, I imagine that would be extremely helpful. Its an 89 SW dl 4x4 d/r manual trans. 1.8. Also every store that looked it up only showed an Xt model or sedan, I would guess sedan must be the same as SW?

I am in need know of a clean pair of under wear and a wheel cylinder. Last night heading back into town, down a very steep grade and of course, it wasn't straight. Next thing i know, little pop and brake pedal to the floor, low brake fluid light comes on. Happy Happy Joy Joy. So I'm now trying to locate a wheel cylinder, which nobody in Podunk Town U.S.A. has, amazing since I know of at least 30 that are running around in our town alone. Back to the point, everyone is asking if its got 11/16 or 3/4 inch bore. I don't have the vehicle here to check, is there a way to narrow it down by application, perhaps better than the num nuts at our parts stores can? If not, can I just replace both wheel cylinders at the same time if I replace them both with matching bore sizes? For example, if mine are 11/16 bore and I order 2 with a 3/4 inch bore can I swap them both out?

This is a shot in the dark, most wrecking yards have freon recovery units and have to pay to get rid of the freon that they recover to certified recycler. Theres an off chance that one or more of the wrecking yards around MAY possibly be willing to recharge your system. Just have to call around and ask.

I see quite a few available in the washington state area, I'm not linked to pull n save places but it sounds like they have some great deals. Most of what I see varies alot in prices depending on mileages, theres a place in california with one that has 59k on it for 400 bucks, we've got one in a different yard that we own for 250k but unknown mileage for 250 I'm sure i could get it cheaper. Back when I first got this subaru and after a few trips into the hills I decided I had to switch from the push button 4x4 to the dual rang...O LORD what a difference it makes having lower gear options

A most discouraging scenario is the fact that I work for a salvage yard, and we inventory our parts individually, we recently crushed out about 500 cars, these things were coming from everywhere, we crushed 5 mid to late 80's SW with D/R in them. I asked if I could get at least one before they were crushed. Came in the next day- all gone to the big sub in da sky. Very disappointed. Highest mileage one was 165k.

I have an 89 non turbo ea82, this car that came in is an 84 all i can tell you is that it has an engine sitting in the back that is clearly stamped ea82 not ea82t and it has a carburetor laying in the front seat. The tranny is still in the car, i sat in it and went through all 5 speeds. I decoded the vin and it does come back as an 84. Its all a moot point now, its done been squished.

It is a 5sp, so someone must have converted it. I just hope I can get it pulled before the crusher shows up this afternoon, off the top of anyones head, what other parts would you pull that will interchange, head lights look brand new but according to our computer its 84 only.

I'LL go out and check the tranny, for sure the engine thats in the back of the car at least is clearly stamped ea82, but i'm going to go out and check and see if the tranny is 4 or 5 speed, as you stated someone may have swapped

And another question, this has an ea82 block with cylinder heads still there, this thing had 161k on it. Its my understanding from what I've read, and i'm far from an expert, that the heads off of any ea82 engine should be the same, I wouldn't mind at least pulling these to look at to see how bad of a crack there is in them, but don't want to waste my time if they wont interchange.

So heres what i've got. I work at a wrecking yard, and we have a computer system that allows me to locate parts pretty much nationwide as long as its someone using the Hollander System and is hooked up to the Eden network. Our computer system shows us parts interchanges but only for factory interchanges, for example. If i look up an engine for an 86 chev pickup, it doesn't show a 400. But a 400 will fit, but according to our computer it never came from the factory with a 400 in it. Back on subject with what i've got. We just got an 84 gl sw d/r 5spd. And according to our computer from 83 to 87 tranny's are the same, but the only difference is the gear ratio. My question being, will the tranny from an 84 fit an 89, I don't care much if the only difference is the gear ratio. I'm thinking that since all the blocks were the same for quite awhile, that it should, maybe just having to change the axle shafts? I don't need a tranny right now, but all were going to do with the car is crush it, I'd hate to see it go to waste if I can use it.

This is a shot in the dark, but my 89 5spd m/t had a similar problem except mine did it randomly when I turned on any accessory temp gauge would spike. Or if I hit bumps, which finally clued me in that it wasn't really running hot. After searching and searching finally found that when I had swapped engines, the auxilary ground wire I'd hooked back up had come loose. Tightened it back down and voila...problem gone. Hopefully it can be this simple for you.

so this light flashes constantly, i haven't looked yet

Okay I'm ready to undertake this testing now....I think. So I've read the section on testing for codes. However I'm a bit unclear on exactly how to get it to flash these codes. As I stated before, on my wifes suzuki, you take a jumper wire and jump between two plugins and it will flash the code through the CEL. If thats the case on my 89 dl. Which ones do I jumper between. I'm definately a more visual guy, so any pics would go miles in helping me not short something out. I have a new to me 89 gl with 130k on it, has a recently rebuilt engine, that now has a hole in the block. My plan is to figure out what my current problem is, before I just start buying new parts one at a time until i figure it out. So whatever I may need to replace, I have on hand now.

I've got an 89 dl s/w m/t d/r. I too had problems with it overheating went through a couple thermostats. In the proccess of replacing broken timing belts and oil pump I had pulled the radiator and pressure washed it and got alot of junk out of it. It seemed to run a lot cooler at least I should say it didn't overheat any time I wasn't on flat ground, still got hot pulling any hill for any length of time. I had tried various different flushing products, back flushed etc...etc.. Finally this year I just bought a new radiator that we had sitting at our salvage yard for years and put that in. Now last weekend it was very near 100 degrees and we went camping(not the smartest thing I've ever done) and I pulled some long steep hills and that temp gauge never even budged. It still pings when I pull an incline, but I can live with that, just tickled it doesn't overheat anymore.

Would be awesome if you could figure out a way to get a GM 10SI self excited alternator mounted under it.

I'm sure there are tons around. If you don't find one we've got one at our salvage yard, It's in there for 35 but I bet I could sell it for 25 plus the freight, if you need it just post again and I'll give you the number to our yard.

Make sure that you check the voltage at the back of the alternator as well as at the actuall battery, a difference in the voltage between where its coming out (the alternator) and where it effectively ends up, this can cause the regulator to go into what was commonly called "full fielding" on older externally regulated chevs and fords. The alternator is trying to compensate for a lower voltage reading somewhere else.

I see lots of posts for putting an ej22 in place of an ea82, but it was something I never considered doing, mostly because I wouldn't have a clue what the hell I was doing. I rather surprised myself when I just swapped motors on my own. Wasn't that hard after I through the ********************* chiltons book away and used common sense and a little puzzle solving. However I am now thinking with this straight of a car with this nice of an interior, I may consider it. We have an ej22 in our salvage yard with 71k miles on it, we've got it priced at 495. How hard is it truly to do this swap. I don't really know anybody around my area that is a sub fanatic and would be willing to help me with this "experiment"

Well I'm far from the most technologically advanced guy, I can probably take the pic, as far as getting it posted, LOL, that could take some work on my behalf. If anyone knows how to do it from a cell phone pic, i could snap some pics with my cell phone and forward it in a text and then they could post it. Sorry to seem so ignorant, but I don't even have internet at home, just at work. But it wouldn't be a problem to snap pics with the phone and forward them on. As far as the hole in the block, I can not see anywhere top or bottom (picked it up with our big forklift) that there is a hole, or even any excessive oil that may have been shot out. I did however when I had it lifted up see that where the exhaust bolts to the engine, there was no gasket there and one of the bolts is missing. Which I have had one of those bolts come out before, and to a person who may not know much about cars, it may have sounded like the engine was going tits up. I'm trying to find out from our other yard whether they drained the oil before they brought it here or if it came in with no oil. I guess I'll just put some oil in it and fire it up, see where it comes from if anywhere.