TRAVIS75

Yeah sorry bout posting that in this forum, its the only one i've ever gone too because I've only ever had the older generations, didn't even occur that being couple years newer than mine made it into the classification of Newer Generation.

I work at a wrecking yard in washington state, so I just pulled up a list of wrecking yards in the state of Missouri that had entire vehicles specific to your year and model 1) Craig Automotive-- Beaufort,MO 800-992-1918 2) Yancey Auto---Perry, MO 800-492-6239 shows that they have 3 84 GL'S Hope this helps.

Its a constant click, high idle or under load, not under load, heater on or of, ac on or off. Reminds me of a fuel pump relay, but I honestly don't even know where thats located on these. I don't think its a big issue, but like I said, where she's going to school, the only family she's got there is my sister, but no one else to fix it if it ended up developing into a problem. Not fond of the idea of tearing dash apart, but I guess ultimately it would have to be done to replace or repair whatever is making the noise. I've never torn the dash apart. LOL it may just go down the road the way it is!

It does it with or without heater or ac on.

My brother in law recently purchased a 92 subaru for my niece who has gone off to college. She didn't get her license till a year ago and even then only drove for a week in our small town, before jumping straight into driving in a big metropolitan city (not smart in my opinion but what do I know). The first vehicle they bought her was a Durango. To big for an inexperienced driver, especially learning to drive in a big city. Well, she rolled it on black ice. Somewhat upon my advice, they bought her a subaru, 92 legacy AWD, not sure if its turbo or not. Only 2 owners, 110k. Its an automatic. It had been having a problem with starting when cold, crank and crank, finally start, ran good after it was started, started good after warmed up, but let it set for a few hours, same problem. Got that resolved. Current "problem" is that there is a constant click from what sounds to be right behind the center of the dash. Its a constant, in time click. Doesn't stop unless you smack the dash, then stops for a few minutes and starts again. Haven't noticed anything wrong performance wise with it, no fluctuation in rpms or flicker of lights etc. Any ideas. I told them this would be an excellent car (subaru in general) for a first time driver, dependable etc. And I know it will be, I would just like to get any kinks worked out of it before we take it over to her beings how where she is going to school (spokane) she doesn't have any family there that could help her if it develops a problem.

I think at this point, I'll spend another 70 dollars and buy some good door speakers. Or just go out in our salvage yard and find something, would really like to get some for the rear doors too. Its a start anyways, very least I'm sure I could sell at least the speakers for more than I paid for everything else combined.

well beings how I've got absolutely nothing more than a 2 front door speakers, of which one is blown, I talked to the boss and he said he'd sell it for 35.00 and he'd sell me the 2 10 inch speakers and box (heavy sum*************** LOL) for another 35.00. The speakers just say Punch---which I'm assuming are Rockford Fosgate and at the bottom of the speaker it says P2, which from my understanding is the 2nd series of Punch speaker a fairly reasonable speaker. All in all 70 bucks, should be an improvement. Too bad I don't know chit from chinola about installing it LOL:-\

Okay this isn't exactly a direct subaru question, on in the way that I'm going to possibly put it in my subaru. I've tried finding my answer in other audio forums but most of them have had anybody on them in years. We recently pick up a Dodge pickup that had rolled and was on its top. When we rolled up to this thing the stereo was still playing. We ran this crunched up dodge through our auction and no surprise no one bought it. This resulted in us pulling out the amp, and speaker box. I can't find anywhere, anything about this amp as far as quality etc. Its an MDX-2652. Don't know if MDX is the maker? 2652 is the model? I know this much if you google or go on Yahoo even Bing and just type in MDX-2652 all you get is a bunch of sites that lead back to Mountain Dew. There's so many people that visit this forum, I'm kinda hopin that someone might stumble across this question and have an answer...thanks

I used to work at at a place that specialized in batterys starters and alternators, we were just a 3 person operation, the owner/secretary her son and myself. We did alot of general repairs on all makes and models of starters from automotive all the way up to 50mt starters for big d9 cats. This particular starter on your sub, if its the same as mine, a Nippon Denso G/R starter, in my opinion was one of the best starters ever built until they came out with PMGR (permanent magnet gear reduction). Of the hundreds of the ND's that I ever looked at least 95% of them all they ever needed was too have the 2 contacts in the silenoid replaced. Over the 1000' of times its started, it pulls a copper plunger down to make contact with the contacts one on each side of the silenoid, pure repetitiveness of this causes the copper contacts to gradually wear thin till eventually it doesn't make complete contact with both sides. At this time it will just click, sometimes several times, till the plunger happens to rotate enough when being pulled down to make contact again with both contacts. This is a very simple fix, and at least when I used to do it 10 years ago, contacts were fairly cheap, about 7.50 each. If you decide to take this upon yourself to do, be very careful that you don't crack plastic insulators between contact and inside of silenoid (these parts are available as well and just as easy to replace). Pay close attention to the order in which you take this apart. While you've got it apart, the plunger and shaft attached to it(all one piece) should be taken to a wire wheel and buff the bottom side of the plunger can also be done with a piece of emery cloth, but wire wheel is much quicker. The whole process of fixing this takes about 20 minutes (not counting starter removal time) but take your time, i've done this 3 times on my current starter, and to this day, its all i've ever had to do to it.

I had same problem, ended up just being blower motor resistor located right by the blower motor. I always thought it was a progressive failure, losing high, then next highest etc...etc... mine just flat quit working.

I know how many of you dislike people who post questions that have already been answered, and you suggest using search forum first. Here is my proposal. I'm trying to find out how to or where I can make or find a conversion kit from 4 lug to 5 lug on an 89 dl 4x4 d/r m/t wagon. I went in to search forum, entered keyword "hub" nothing found, nothing to even browse. Keyword "5 lug conversion" brings up page after page of conversions, and not a single one in the first 15 pages had anything to do with converting to 5 lug. Keyword "wheel" for sure this will bring something up, again 15 pages of stuff to browse, 6 things about wheels, nothing about conversion :-\. So, here I am posting the question I'm sure thats been covered numerous times:grin: anybody have any suggestions.

Sorry guys, I don't have the net at home so this is my first chance to respond. I could care less about hooking the turbo up. I just saw this as an opportunity to get a couple "good engines" they are not rebuilt, all the lady told me is that they were "crate" engines, the ones pulled out after so many miles and imported to the U.S. I'm not all that thrilled not knowing the mileage or compression. I would have suspected that they would still have problems with the heads/head gaskets, after all its still an ea82 at heart. As far as the ej22 I'd love to do it. Problem being, as I stated before, me and wiring get along about as well as Helen Keller and open heart surgery.

I tried the retro/fitting forum to find out what requirements there were in swapping a ea82 for a ea82T, I only have internet at work, and it never fails every time I'm looking in the forum, I loose track of the page I'm on and have to start over:mad:. I've got 2 89 s/w one is a gl and the other a dl, the dl runs, its my daily driver, and i've got another that had a rebuilt engine in it that got a hole in the block. I know of someone not to far from me that has 2 "crate engines" that she and her husband bought years ago when they thought it needed an engine. Come to find out it just needed a computer. Her husband since died of cancer and she never fixed the original car(the one needing a computer) and never used the other 2 engines. She only ended up with 2 because the place she was getting them from was going out of business and made her a deal on 2. Its supposed to be a package deal, the car and 2 "crate engines" for 500 dollars. I want to know if I'd be getting in over my head trying to swap this. I really only need 1. I'd be willing to trade the 2nd engine if someone near me could help me do this, I really suck at wiring. Its not set in stone yet, I've still got get the money, but not going to far till I know more.

well i've never rebuilt one, so if it was your own personal engine, and you had a car that was in primo condition, 130k not a dent or spec of rust, what ever you would order, I'd like to make it as close to a rebuilt one as you would buy from an actual rebuilder. I don't need to worry about the heads, the guy that our yard got this from had the engine rebuilt with a supposed 1 year warranty, however 600 miles later, it threw a rod, and put a hole in the block. The rebuilder was nowhere to be found. Long story short, I got it for 250, I"ve got another ea82 engine that used to be in my current sub, that blew a head gasket, and cracked head I'm sure (wife filled it with antifreeze, didn't put cap back on, made it about 20 miles and it was dead in the water).

anyone?

Hello people, how we doin today? I've got an 89 DL S.W. 4x4 d/r. I'd like to get some opinions on who sells a good rebuild kit, complete kit at that. I've done some searching, and its a never ending cycle of places saying "yeah we got that kit" you go on their site and all you find is N/A or out of stock, and of course no prices, so I have no idea how much its going to cost. I'm sure there are superb ones just like there are crappy whats, what are your preferences, and possible links to would be awesome, thanks in advance. Oh yeah its the 1.8 non turbo, SPFI

I had an interesting thing happen with a cv axle, the boot on it was torn, and I knew it, but was too lazy to replace it I guess. Anyways, went through a huge mud hole, packed that thing full of crap. It shook the hell out of me before it got cleaned out. I didn't waste another day, I replaced it. What a ride.

I ordered one in to our yard about a year and a half ago, I don't remember exactly, but as best I can recall it was 225 to 250. For sure less than 300.

Sorry about it taking so long to get back, I don't have the internet at home. It leaks quite a bit of oil in my opinion. About a quart every week or 2. Got so much crap under it, its hard to tell where from. I don't think it burns it, there are no abnormal colors to the exhaust. I didn't replace any o/rings or gaskets on the oil pump, I took it off of the engine that I blew the head gasket on, which never had a ticking problem.

I've heard of it referred to as the "tick of death" as well. I can't explain in great detail the internal workings of an EA82 or any other engine for that matter, LOL thats why I love this forum, because of the gurus that can. The noise is unmistakeable though, sounds just like any other engine does when its low on oil and the lifters start ticking, only its not necesarrily because its low on oil, like in my case. As far as the "tick of death", its been ticking for 2 years, and it takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Eventually I'm sure it will be the demise of this engine:-\. As I said before, i'll seafoam it and change the oil. Not going to hold my breath that it works, tried MMO ATF Lucas, etc...etc...

Going to seafoam it this weekend I suppose, I did try the ATF thing, didn't make a difference. So is it the consensus then that if it was a collapsed lifter, then it would tick all the time?

Love my soob, hate that freakin tick. I've come to the conclusion that the tick isn't a lifter, my subaru just deep down inside wants to be a diesel :-\. All kidding aside, every since I put this used engine in my 89 dl non turbo, its ticked, good compression 170-175 across the board, but it ticks, not all the time, sometimes louder one day than the next. I've replaced the "mickey mouse" gasket/ring whatever. And no difference, i've tried different additives for oil, and for flushing, nada. Haven't tried seafoam yet, but thats next. Someone suggested a collapsed lifter. I'm no mechanic, nor genius. But if it were a collapsed lifter, wouldn't the tick be constant, and never go away? Also heard that the timing could be off, really don't understand how that would affect it...but ? It could certainly explain the pinging i get going up a hill, or on flat ground if i'm not running in a lower gear than I should need to.

Heres my 2 cents worth, I looked up on our computer here at the yard, a wheel for an 89 dl 4x4 and the 15 inch factory spare is a 15x5 so the same width as the factory 13 inch which is 13x5. I wish I had one here to actually measure, but all I can go by is what our computer says. I've never tried either, but I've asked myself the same question, especially since 13 inch tires are hard to come by these days, at least used ones at our salvage yard are. Then again, 15 are pretty rare for us to get in also.

I don't see many subarus of any type for sale in the particular area of North Central Washington. But there are a ton of them running around. I hate to say that when we get calls for people wanting to sell us their "gently" used subaru's (i work at a salvage yard) we offer the same amount as we offer for most cars 50 bucks. The price of scrap metal is so low, and unfortunately my boss isn't interested in setting these cars in the yard to sell the parts, so I"ve seen a number of them just get squished . I've rescued 2, one was rusted, but the price was right, 89 DL m/t sr, after one year of hunting I quickly found out that it would be beneficial to convert to D/R. I got it from our auction for 500, I love it. The other one i got, was also an 89 GL w/ 130k not a dent or a scratch, 100 percent rust free, small chip in the windshield, interior 99 percent perfect. Already a d/r (bonus) had a rebuilt engine in it, but whoever rebuilt it did something wrong, it put a hole in the block. My boss paid the guy 100 dollars for it, and was going to crush it, it just went against every moral fiber in my body to see this thing sent to the big yard in the sky, I got it for 250 dollars . But as far as prices in general public sales, people around here just won't let them go, which IMHO means we've got some smart people, I know I wouldn't part with either of mine.

I wouldn't trust myself to make a homemade lift kit, it would turn out much like if you were to ask Helen Keller to do open heart surgery, sure the task would eventually get done, but the results would be less than pretty:-\