Looks like my 85 wagon will die soon

 

My distributor is almost completely gone.. It's still running, barely, and the tach is jumping from 2k rpm to 6k rpm.

 

And since I am unemployed it means that I cant afford to fix it.. so I guess I'm gonna be out of a car.

 

 

The local junkyard here doesn't have any distributors either.

 

 

 

 

If anyone has a spare distributor, PM me and I'll see if I can make it worth your while..

 

Or! I'll trade my EA82 that has less then 50k on it for a EA81 Webber not included

surely you can find a distributor for next to nothing, used disty's aren't worth much.

 

can you fix the disty itself? not sure what yours is like, but the later model distributors sometimes can be fixed by cleaning the sensor or wheel or by replacing the bushing/bearing.

if you can make it to tacoma the pull-a-part there has a few subies from what my buddy told me, and its just $20..well 16.50 plus 3.50 core. I know its quite a drive for ya. goto pullapartwa dot com and call them up and see what they have in stock. they only give make, model and year...but they dont tell ya if its a gl or dl submodel.

Are the bearings and module both bad? I don't know about EA82 distys, but EA81 modules can be found in some Hondas(so I've read). If you have bad bearings I'm sure you can find just those at a place like Kaman.

The shaft bushings are failing - they can be replaced. There's some threads on here about the necessary part numbers, etc. I'm not sure if the old bushings need to be reamed out or if the new bushings need to be reamed to size or not. Replacing the bushings is not something I would attempt if you have never done such things but it is possible.

 

Better to just pickup a used one - someone on this board will have one laying about. All the carb EA82 distributors are interchangeable.

 

GD

If you have bad bearings I'm sure you can find just those at a place like Kaman.

 

The FI distributors use needle bearings that are easily replaced - sadly the carb units (which didn't need the accuracy that the optical pickup in the FI units required) used bushings which are press-fit into the housing and may need to be reamed or line-bored to size.

 

GD

Pop the cap off, and drip three or four drops of motor oil under the rotor. I tried this on my 82 wagon, and it worked for a few months. I went on to do that with a few of the other craptastic vehicles I have crossed paths with, and it has saved me quite a bit of money.

The FI distributors use needle bearings that are easily replaced - sadly the carb units (which didn't need the accuracy that the optical pickup in the FI units required) used bushings which are press-fit into the housing and may need to be reamed or line-bored to size.

 

GD

 

It's not an FI it's a carbed.. so I'll probably just get a used one at PaP..

 

Pop the cap off, and drip three or four drops of motor oil under the rotor. I tried this on my 82 wagon, and it worked for a few months. I went on to do that with a few of the other craptastic vehicles I have crossed paths with, and it has saved me quite a bit of money.

 

I'll try that too, thanks.

Craptastic!

This is EXACTLY what its doing:

 

It's NOT my car obviously, but it gives a perfect example of what I'm stuck with.

That's the same thing my 82 and my Hatch did, only it was accompanied by a squealing/buzzing noise. You could grab the distributor rotor and move it around side to side. It was especially bad on cold starts.

The oil didn't fix it permanently, but it bought me time and made the car driveable in every case I have used it.

unfortunately oil didn't help at all, I rebuilt all the mechanical parts on the dist with my old one, and its still doing it.

 

I'm going to need a ride to Tacoma PaP..