As requested - part numbers for the gear linkage bushings responsible for EA-81 shifter slop. If anyone has them, I'd appreciate it if you could toss them my way. Thanks!

Before the BRAT met it's demise, I was working on a shifter set up using an inline ball joint from McMaster Carr. I was going to drill through the current shifter pivot hole so that the inline ball joint can be secured and then I was going to modify the existing shifter by cutting off the pivot point off and welding a tube w/a nut at the bottom.

 

For the shift rod collar can be replaced by a 1/2 OD schedule 40 pipe.

you will need to grind the seam weld to get it to fit over the shift rod. There is still a little slop there, but it's a lot tighter than the stock worn out shift rod collar.

 

Here is the stock number for the inline joint 8412K12.

 

BW

EA81 shifter slop is not really caused by the bushings, and frankly they rarely need replacement - I just grind 1/16" off the steel sleeve that sets how tight the two ears clamp down on the bushings to tighten them up a bit.

 

The issue, as s'ko pointed out, is the shift rod/sleeve interface. I have a been through a couple of fixes for this - my most recent is in this post:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86901

 

I recently had the opportunity to improve upon this method - I had to replace the 4 speed in my lifted wagon and during the process I decided to change to my "version 2" slop fix as outlined in my above post. I went the next level this time and installed a second locking bolt at a different angle - in this case I had already drilled the shift rod and sleeve for a 3/8" bolt several years back when I did one of my first "clamp style" version 1 slop fixes. Being already larger, I had to go with a 7/16 thread for the main bolt. I then drilled and tapped for a 5mm socket head cap screw at a different angle to help lock the sleeve from pivoting on the 7/16" bolt.

 

I have yet to drive the wagon with this installed as I'm building some new lift components for it, but it feels very solid and I used no new parts in the process. Just off-the-shelf components. I also removed a bit of metal from the bushing ear sleeve as I mentioned above to tighten the rubber bushings and I moved the pivot point of the shifter up by 3/4" to give the shifter a bit less throw and get back some height that it lost with the lift. You can see the where I cut and welded a section of steel rod into the pivot point and moved the shift rod/sleeve section down by the same amount.

 

Anyway - that's the version 3 slop fix as it sits now. I'll be able to fully evaluate it's performance after I'm able to drive it for a while. I'm planning to take it to the show this year.

 

GD

I have a been through a couple of fixes for this - my most recent is in this post:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86901

 

 

I went from pure slop to an as new tightness, with this method.

A+ stuff.

Thanks, guys. I'll fool with it this weekend and report back. I'm not quite at the bowl-of-oatmeal stage yet (that was my last Brat), but I do want to fix this since I'm looking at autocrossing the little bugger in the next few weeks.