nolicense Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 when static timing the ea81 when I get my #1 cylinder at TDC where exactly is the rotor supposed to point on the engine. Is it like most vehicles where it points to the #1 cylinder, or does it point elsewhere? I have done a weber swap and tossed on an ea82 manifold so I have flipped the bracket thats bolts to the distributor over so my numbers on the distributor cap arent really relevant anymore. I was sure I had marked the last position of the rotor and dropped the distributor back in the same position but I cannot get it to turn over completely, i have also changed the plug wires to where it looks like they should be with the new distributor position. I can get a pic of it too, if anyone needs it for reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 With #1 at TDC on the comp. stroke, turn the flywheel BACK till you get to 8 degrees. The rotor then points at whichever plug tower on the cap you want to be #1. The fireing sequence is 1,3,2,4 so you install the wires from the #1 tower in counter-clockwise order. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 how do I know which is the compression stroke? should I just have a compression gauge attached while i hand crank the engine over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Pull the plug and stick your finger in the hole. The comp. stroke will push air past your finger. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 well, I had it dead on before. Just went and static timed it and its great. but still wont fire. I know i got spark from the coil. my compression is #1-179 #2-170 #3-173 #4-170 I have new plugs in there, less than 10 miles on them. But tomorrow, ill pull the plugs out one by one and see if they got spark by grounding them on the block. The damn thing seems like it wants to run, but just doesnt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 any backfire while cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 nope no backfiring. Im kind of thinking now that the plugs have fouled somehow, I did get a little coolant/water in the cylinder head after removing the ea81 manifold to swap in the ea82 manifold, but I cranked the motor with the plugs out and absolutely no fuel going to it and got most the water out then I hooked a small hose up to a wet/dry shop vac and sucked the rest of the coolant/water out with that. maybe the weber is running to lean or rich to get it to fire correctly, what is the base setting for a weber with the mixture screw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 what is the base setting for a weber with the mixture screw? Mixture screw is only for idle mixture - base setting is 2.5 turns out from bottomed. I still think your timing is off. Are you sure you got the fireing order correct and in counter-clockwise order starting from 1? The distributor rotates counter-clockwise which is not intuitive.... at least for me. I have to get it straight in my head every time I do it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 according to doing the static timing Im right on except for the vacuum advance, but I cant really set that until I get the car running. I have the plug wires in correct order with rotor pointing at #1 plug wire at 8*BTDC which I found (thanks to you GD) via #1 piston TDC on compression stroke then backed the flywheel to the 8* mark. and then on the disty cap going counter-clockwise to 3then2then4 then back to #1 plug wire. the engine is cranking and has the sound that the timing is right, but since it wont fire im thinking it has something to do with the spark plugs now. My auto choke is functioning properly, I am getting fuel. Im pretty sure I have no vacuum leak(cant get good reading because engine wont run yet), all vacuum lines (brake booster, heater and vacuum advance hooked properly) PCV system correctly hooked up. all ground surfaces have been sanded down for good ground and all ground wires are hooked up and in good condition. there is one vacuum line coming from drivers side firewall that I dont have hooked up, the charcoal canister in the front fender said it was for fuel, should that be hooked to the manifold or can I leave it just sitting there? I triple checked the firing order and which way the rotor spins before I even tried to fire it up. but tomorrow, like i said, I will check to see if I get any spark to each individual plug. And I do get spark thru my coil. I also use a remote starter so i can be under the hood while I crank it over, and I do have the ignition in the "ON" position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 gas in the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 gas in the tank? lol..good question and yes, half a tank of fresh 87 octane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Try a different distributor. I've had one's with clean spark that still didn't run worth a damn. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 28, 2009 Author Share Posted August 28, 2009 ok gd you got it right turned out to be a timing issue, 1 tooth off on the distributor...got it running f'n sweet now, cept at 8* BTDC it dont like, it likes 10* BTDC. which im cool with. now my new problem is a sticky gas pedal at 1/8th or so throttle, it catches then I put extra pressure and it breaks past the sticky point and is smooth after that, but I got a old ea82 wagon Im going to take the gas pedal assembly out of and see if that fixes it up right. has anyone had this situation? it looks rusty and there is what looks like tar all over the floorboards (which im guessing is either adhesive for carpet or a sound deadener that has turned rotten) which may have gotten into the gas pedal assembly. any ideas or just swap the spare from the parts car over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 I've usually had that problem with worn-out throttle cables. Check to make sure it's not the wire trying to eat into the cable sheath. Either way - pedal assembly or wire - should be an easy fix. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 28, 2009 Author Share Posted August 28, 2009 Im gonna unhook the throttle cable pedal side and see how it feels just pulling that by hand and check the pedal assembly with it unhooked from the cable too. and i know this thread is jumpin round alot, but my speedo isnt steady, would that be a loose connection on the gauge or tranny side or just faulty gauge that needs replacing? all other gauges work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 but my speedo isnt steady Usually means the drive cable is going out. My Brat has done it at low speeds for years - different clutster's, different transmissions - only thing that hasn't changed is the cable itself. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 28, 2009 Author Share Posted August 28, 2009 I noticed today since it was the first time i took the soob on the freeway, that over 35 its steady as a rock, just 35 and under its screwy. so Ill just replace the cable then. i think that may cover all my concerns now..thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 Also check to make sure the throttle shaft bolt is not too tight on the weber or you will get binding. Are u using the throttle cable guide from the hitachi or the one that came on the weber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 (edited) Also check to make sure the throttle shaft bolt is not too tight on the weber or you will get binding. Are u using the throttle cable guide from the hitachi or the one that came on the weber? thats the throttle linkage kit Im using. the throttle shaft bolt is not that tight, so there is no binding there. it also did this with the stock hitachi on it. Wasnt able to re-use the hitachi linkage since I have a df weber and not a dg. I already have my replacement pedal assembly ready to go from the parts car., just have to yank mine out of my hatch. my gas pedal in the hatch also has major left to right play and this replacement assembly has very minimal play. Edited August 29, 2009 by nolicense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolicense Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 did the replacement and fixed my problem...good times... now on my plate is a d/r 4x4 tranny swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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