I just put a EJ25 /22, hybrid motor into my 2000 OBS and I am getting P0340, Camshaft sensor error.

 

I used a phase 1 EJ25 short block and the phase 2 EJ22 heads from the OBS engine.

 

Head gaskets are cometic. The are about twice as thick as the stock EJ22 head gaskets. I replaced the Phase 1 crankshaft timing gear w/the Phase 2 gear so the tabs would line up.

 

Car idles well. When I try and drive it, it will hesitate badly between 1k and 2k and then it will smooth out until about 3.5k and then fuel will cut. It is also running super rich. Original EJ22 had a damaged bearing in the shortblock, but it ran ok before the swap. Timing is set correctly. I am using the phase 1 Crank angle sensor.

 

I pulled the connector and cleaned it w/soap and upon start up, there was no CEL. Then I revved the engine slightly and the p0340 came on.

 

Does anyone know if the thicker head gaskets cause the code to be thrown?

 

Other opinions?

 

Thanks

BW

it really does sound like timing still. I wonder if the change of the crankshaft sprocket has mixed something up. This possibly could be leading to a confusion between the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals as well, throwing the P0340. I'm not terribly experienced in building frankenstein motors, so someone else would have to chime in as to the compatibility of those sprockets and the timing marks. The stumbling really sounds like timing though...

~Erik~

did some research on p0340

seems like a bad alternator will send out signals that can confuse the ECU

 

my friend's uncle took apart the alternator b/c i made a comment about it being a shame to put a dirty alternator in the middle on a nice clean engine

 

will test 2 see if he damaged the alternator

negative on the alternator.

 

NASIOC suggests I look into the sensor and also the timing belt tensioner.

 

Will do that this Friday.

 

BW

If you go here... http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public?wa=wsignin1.0&sa=610095433 there is an article called 04-diagnostics, which explains exactly what CAN set that code. It could also be bad wiring though including having the wiring routed incorrectly. Even though the cam sensor has shielded wires it can pick up interference if it's not routed correctly.

try unplugging the sensor entirely and start the car. if the car runs better and just throws a trouble code (now ignoring the sensor feed), you've got a bad sensor or other sensor-related issue. I'm willing to bet you've still got an actual hard problem like timing. Are the Phase 1 and 2 crankshaft pulleys you switched clocked the same on the crankshaft? with the stumbling, it sounds like something somewhere is off...

~Erik~

try unplugging the sensor entirely and start the car. if the car runs better and just throws a trouble code (now ignoring the sensor feed), you've got a bad sensor or other sensor-related issue. I'm willing to bet you've still got an actual hard problem like timing. Are the Phase 1 and 2 crankshaft pulleys you switched clocked the same on the crankshaft? with the stumbling, it sounds like something somewhere is off...

~Erik~

 

ok removed the sensor & drove it up & down the block

ran like poop between 1& 2k

aftef that i was able to go past the 3.5k mark & it accelerated somewhat smoothly

The symptoms sound like the ECU has defaulted to a ''limping'' mode, since it apparently thinks that it can't rely on the cam sensor data. I'm not sure if it's relevant or not to your ''hybrid'', but the piece entitled ''Incorrect Parts Substitution'' on page 12 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf might be interesting.

I read that one article from another thread about P0340.

 

I have the crank gear from the Phase 2 engine and I am using the Phase 2 heads w/cam gears.

 

There is a huge difference between the number of tabs on the phase 2 OBS crank gear and the one on the phase 1 one.

 

In terms of it not lining up the same, they both has the woodruff key and at TDC, the woodruff key on both pointed in the same direction.

 

I agree with it going into limp mode. Plan to remove the t-belt covers and have a look at timing and take the sensor off. Will also be checking the engine harness to see if anything is being pinched or if there are any exposed wires.

 

BW

I agree with it going into limp mode. Plan to remove the t-belt covers and have a look at timing and take the sensor off. Will also be checking the engine harness to see if anything is being pinched or if there are any exposed wires.

Checking the harness is a good idea. The large connectors at the rear of the engine where the transition is made from the engine harness to the body harness should be looked at. Those connectors sometimes get corroded or contaminated (although probably less commonly in LA than here in the Northeast). Sometimes disconnecting them, spraying out with isopropyl alcohol and then drying with a hair dryer can fix weird sensor problems.

Pulled t-belt covers and inspected timing. It's still set right. someone on NASIOC mentioned that he had similar problems after a high comp build swap and it ended up being the tensioner.

 

swapped out sensor w/a known good one, removed the intake manifold and inpected the wires. did not find anything squished or cut. Re-wrapped some of the wires that had the tape separating.

 

Still runs like poop.

 

I bought a new T-belt kit and will see if that changes anything.

 

Will be cleaning the harness w/some alcohol too.

 

BW

ok took some denatured alcohol & washed the main engine harness plugs.

 

it now runs 100% better than before. It idles smoothly and will accelerate smoothly. Highest I took the tach was 5k but it did not cut power.

 

The CEL came on while driving it and it read p0340 and p0341 so something weird is still happening with the cam angle sensor. But the main thing to to is that the engine runs and i can actually feel the increase in power that the franken motor adds.

 

Now to get rid of that pesky CEL.

 

BW

Congrats on the improvement!

 

[...]Now to get rid of that pesky CEL.

There might still be some connector contamination, or they aren't completely dry. This is sounding more and more like a variation on a problem we previously trouble-shot here. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100611&highlight=p0340 -- Although it's a long thread, I suggest reading it through (but don't necessarily get hung up with the resistance readings, etc.).