zstalker

1984 GL-10 Hardtop Coupe FWD. EA81, Carter/Weber carburetor. Fuel pump isn't operating. If I provide fuel down the carburetor the engine will run properly until I stop fueling. Replaced fuel pump, and distributor (to provide proper ignition signal, the shaft had some play). I'm focusing on the Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU), but I'm not in a position where I can afford to experiments with a $150 new one without being fully convinced that it will remedy my situation. I need actual diagnostic information about this box specifically. Does anyone know the actual function of the FPCU? First off I'm a Subaru dealership technician, so I'm certainly not shooting blind, but I can't find any actual information about the operation of the FPCU. Using the factory service manual, Haynes, and Chiltons manuals I've been able to find almost nothing of what kind of output this module produces. The manuals all basically say " if power and ground are there, tach signal is coming in, then the pump will run." Yes, that's wonderful, but run how? From what I've figured the pump produces a pulsing power signal, since the pump does nothing and blows the breaker in the Powerprobe after a moment when I supply power and ground directly to the pump. A replacement pump (new) had the same result leading me to believe the pump needs a on-off pulsing power source to operate the plunger solenoid. Followup question: Has anyone ever found a way to bypass the FPCU? if it were as easy as a switch or a relay to provide bypassed power to the pump I would have done that, but that was not successful. Can any of the components inside the FPCU be replaced (resistors, capacitors, etc). I implore you USMB and your fountain of knowledge! ~Erik

http://www.gjparts.com/products/pistons&rings/NPR2008Book_catalog.pdf here's the NPR catalog for pistons and rings. NPR is who makes the rings that Subaru sells new. PN SWF20067 looks like yours...it's got the 1.5, 1.5, 3.0 rings sometimes Ebay comes up with results, sometimes Google will help

Where in Utah are you?

the vents are discontinued by Subaru, so no longer available new. At least in blue...that's what I've checked, I expect the same for grey and tan. good luck finding a good set, that's all...

You'll be removing the engine from the car to pull the heads off anyways, the EA81 uses head studs instead of bolts, you do not have clearance to pull the head in the car. Even on later motors with head bolts, you don't even have room to pull all the bolts out with the engine in the car. You can leave the bolts hanging in the head, but still...tight clearance. ~Erik~

I would bet the dealer just saw that there wasn't a oil pump reseal "kit" and told the caller that to get rid of them. If makes me mad too, that's basically the attitude: we'll help only when it works for us. Any unnecessary parts lookup isnt' worth the time and effort. To reseal an EA81 oil pump it's only a couple O-rings and a gasket (external reseal), you just have to order them separately. Part numbers and MSRP list prices: 424207000 $1.80 806938020 $2.80 806914020 $0.90 These are the two O-rings and body gasket to reseal external leaks on an EA81 oil pump. note: some dealers have "adjusted" their list price, i.e. list+5% as ours does. you might be able to bargain, you may not. ~Erik~

I'd say it's not factory...if everything you need still works, I'd say take it out. ~Erik~

an automatic transmission is basically impossible to test or diagnose unless you can get the torque converter turning to get the fluid moving If you find out which wires the neutral switch uses you could bridge them to see if bypassing the switch will allow the engine to start. Pretty much like stated above, get the motor running first, and with a bad (or at least not connecting for some reason) neutral switch will 100% disable the engine. ~Erik~

try unplugging the sensor entirely and start the car. if the car runs better and just throws a trouble code (now ignoring the sensor feed), you've got a bad sensor or other sensor-related issue. I'm willing to bet you've still got an actual hard problem like timing. Are the Phase 1 and 2 crankshaft pulleys you switched clocked the same on the crankshaft? with the stumbling, it sounds like something somewhere is off... ~Erik~

it really does sound like timing still. I wonder if the change of the crankshaft sprocket has mixed something up. This possibly could be leading to a confusion between the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals as well, throwing the P0340. I'm not terribly experienced in building frankenstein motors, so someone else would have to chime in as to the compatibility of those sprockets and the timing marks. The stumbling really sounds like timing though... ~Erik~

I actually now have experience to say that basic 13" Subaru steel wheels will not fit backwards. The brake caliper and bracket on the Peugeot still stick out too far, and the rim won't seat against the hub. Looked like a crippled low-rider of some sort...very humourous. Then again, this was a Peugeot Turbo, so ohters may differ. ~Erik~

one thing we've found at our dealership is Mopar-branded Rust Penetrant. I don't know who manufacturers it, but it is RIGHTEOUS stuff...I want to name my next child after it. Like I said, I don't know who actually makes it, but I'd like to know so I can see if it's available in the aftermarket. ** anecdotal evidence: There was a 5th-wheel hitch ball threaded into a homemade brace installed under a truck bed I was trying to remove. No luck at all. I got a large pipe wrench (about 2' long), a cheater bar on it making it about 3 feet long. Added to that was a large pipe, about 4 feet long, so I was pulling more than 5 feet away from the ball. I got it to move about a thread's height out and doused the upper and lower threads with Mopar penetrant. Threaded it back in with the same tool combination. Let it sit and then was able to thread the whole hitch out with one finger on the end of the original pipe wrench alone...just spun it out! Other occations I've had a 100% success rate removing O2 sensors from Suzuki Verona catalysts where everyone else (not using penetrant) have about a 50% rate of having to rethread the bung after the sensor pulls the treads out. Amazing Stuff, but I'm really thinking I'm going to get some acetone and mix up some of my own and give it a shot. ~Erik~

awesome! congrats on passing. They're really pretty easy-going at that office there, as long as you're not going/calling to be a jerk about something. As for the fans coming on, I'd let the car idle till it gets to where the needle is heading into the hotter range and they haven't come one. Have you been able to turn them on by grounding the control wire manually? (i.e. with the key "on," backprobe the ECM connector at the wire that it uses to command on the fan relay) If they don't come on, you've got an electrical or fan problem. As crockettbrat said, my fan doesn't even come on till I'm sitting in traffic usually, so you might not even have a problem in the first place. ~Erik~

Back to getting the car to pass safety inspection and emissions, I'll be able to help you there. I'm an inspector over at Doug Smith Subaru. I won't pass things that shouln't pass, but I'll probably be more personable and helpful than most places...give you a more Subaru- and Old-Subaru-specific inspection (I'm rockin' an '84 Brat and '80 GL-10 Coupe). As far as getting the engine swap certified for emissions inspection, the guys down at the county emissions station in Springville are really great. They're a bunch of car guys and as long as you don't go in there being a jerk, they'll be really helpful. It's a really simple procedure...I got my SPFI Brat passed off, and Mark (the guy I deal with most) said that getting an EJ22 or EJ25 swap passed would be just as easy. Let me know anything I can do for you...including wiring, etc (if I have time...jeez, my life is crazy). ~Erik~

I've heard that our shop has an R12 machine...I can check and get back to you on it. If so, you could do a proper evac and recharge. ...I'll check. ~Erik~

I agree that the bed shouldn't be considered "passenger compartment," but since the Brat is a full unibody car (effectively a wagon with no rear roof) the matter gets slightly complicated. One thing you can do is call Highway Patrol...the number should be on your rejected safety inspection paper. They're the final judge on matters like that and since there's a little grey area for the Brat, it might not be such a bad idea to see what the official word is. BTW, when I said I'd do safety inspections I wasn't meaning "I'll pass anything," just that I'm probably more understanding for the concerns old Subarus face than the average inspector....I'll be gentle Bring it by any time. ~Erik~

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00992612000P?vName=Tools&keyword=14mm#descriptionAnchor I got one from MAC, SnapOn would be best (this fitting is going to take some real force most likely), but Craftsman should do the trick. ~Erik~

I love this brush gaurd...home-made? ~Erik~

Oh no! I'm sorry for your poor car. It was such a clean Brat...not even rusting in the bed...such a shame. If you're buying it back from the insurance maybe I'll think up some parts I need...*cough*rear*inner*fenders*cough* I'm going to be around there for a week in September...we'll have to hang out anyways. ~Erik~

Being in the desert is why it's so nice, most likely. Grew up in NM...the dry heat makes some nice surface rust and bleaches the paint, but it'll stay pretty solid. ~Erik~

Here is the 2009-2010 Utah state safety inspection manual book. This isn't secret information, it's publicly available. The highway patrol isn't trying to just screw you by having unknown standards, you should know what to expect. http://www.des.utah.gov/safetyinspections/docs/X2009-2010%20SI%20PLT%20ManuaL.pdf Sway bars are on page 29...it does indeed seem that disconnecting (or removing, for that matter) a swaybar that was installed at the factory is grounds for rejection, so the inspector was correct in this case. If you need a little bit more personalized service, you could stop by and have me do your inspection. I have to warn you, I'm gentle and fair in my inspections, but I'm not one who let's unsafe items "slide"...I didn't even pass my own Brat's safety inspection until I got my exhaust leaks fixed:lol:. Oh, I guess I ought to tell you where I work too: Doug Smith Subaru, in American Fork. ~Erik~ (silver 1984 Brat...live in Eagle Mountain)

wow, seriously: don't be that guy. SEARCH. there are lots of things that can be done, and lots that have been done, so start digging. ~Erik~

Wow, did you seriously just say that? well yes, because it makes it thicker (not surprisingly...the stuff is like molasses). Try running some 20W-50, 60W race oil or 75W-140 gear lube...same result, it's just a physical property of the fluid. As a rule of thumb, the more viscosity index improvers (that Lucas presumably adds) the oil has in it, it'll be great over the temperature range, but they break down quicker than the base oil. If you want to know more than your head can possibly hold about oil and lubrication go visit BITOG. People in there don't take unsubstantiated hearsay or subjective results for crap...only actual testing results and repeatably tested facts. Some seriously hard-core oil nuts, but some great learing. Bottom line: if you're using any additives, you're not using the best oil for your application. ~Erik~