zstalker

what year/model/engine/transmission? that makes a huge difference... ~Erik~

Here is how a relay works. really cool little things, really. That site (howstuffworks.com) is really incredible. any questions about how anything on a car (or anything else for that matter) works, it's there. if both your high-beams are not working, but both the low-beams are, it's possible, but not likely that you'd be getting any current at the bulb...suggesting that both bulbs are just burned out. more likely, something has stopped them both from working. switch? possible. fuse? likely, but you said you've already checked those, so not in this case. Relay is really the only other member of that system, and if it stops working, it'll kill the whole circuit. Find the relays (like stated above, I think they're behind the fuseblock on your car), find which one runs the high-beams, and switch it (temporarily) with another one nearby. it'll probably plug right in, manufacturers only use a couple different types per car. if the high-beams now work with the "new" relay, you've found your culprit. ~Erik~

go to a junk yard and pull the weatherstipping off a car where it's still attached to the clips. the reason being, after being ripped off and put back on so many times, the holes in the rubber on yours are probably huge now, so it'll come off much more easily. a replacement will have original-sized holes to stay on better, then use the 3M weatherstipping adhesive as a second line of defense, just to be sure it doesn't go anywhere. another thing I heard on this forum (or another one...don't remember) that will help once in use, spray the area of the body where it will contact with a quick coating of PAM cooking spray (or generic equivelant). that will keep water off it, and make a nice slippery surface the weatherstipping can't stick to.

75w90NS for the transmission, since it needs a little more specific oil fro the sychros to work best. the same fluid (so you only have to buy one type of fluid...but it only works for an open diff), or regular 75w90 for the rear ~Erik~

A/F sensor =/= O2 sensor O2 sensors and Air/Fuel sensors use a different type of sensor in the exhaust stream, and produce a different type of voltage output. http://www.aa1car.com/library/wraf.htm this sin't to say that it may be getting old (if your car even uses an A/F sensor), but just to clarify

leaking intake? yeah, you definately neeed to get rid of it. it would be a really good idea to just ship it to me j/k no, that's pretty easy to fix...looks like you got a really sweet RX there for a hell of a deal. just about any money you put into it, you're still coming out on top, paying that little. ~Erik~

+1 for www.rockauto.com if you're buying parts that don't need to be OEM (although they sometimes do carry OE parts), they're pretty consistantly the cheapest out there, and their customer service is awesome. if, for any reason, you end up having to call them for any reason, it rings a couple times, then an actual person picks up the phone and helps you out...really awesome. ~Erik~

here's something I made that helped me a lot. It's the same pin chart from GD's build page, but I put the wire colors by the connectors...really helped me a lot tracing wires. (click for the full-size) I've got mine running and just about on the road and there are a number of others here who have finished this swap, so SEARCH FIRST (most of your questions have already been answered, you just have to find them), then ask anything else you need... ~Erik~

apparently, through whatever means, these cars put out extremely low emissions on their "smog index". like the average new car is rated at .39 and these PZEV cars are like .09. I really think that the "partially-zero" designation is very misleading, since at no time the car produces "zero" emissions, as it is still a non-hybrid, internal combustion vehicle. since it isn't actually "zero" emissions, any emissions that it does produce is simply relative to whatever measuring scale you're using.,.... it sure isn't "partially-zero" compared to an actually ZERO emission vehicle. like I said, I don't know the means by which this is all achieved, but I would guess an extremely high-efficiency catalyst is involved. ~Erik~

that's a good point...I bet you'll have a lot of trouble finding one outside a kit. that being said, a whole kit would be only a few dollars. ~Erik~

actually, it's 305HP, and I believe that's at the crank, not at the wheels... ~Erik~

just got the first one off the truck. already bought, of course, as will be the first 3 or 4. (sorry, camera phone pics) ~Erik~

see, that's why I was thinking that for this case. I'd probably clean it out with something first, then brake cleaner, blow it out with air, then something like graphite. basically wanted to see if this was something that was even done...basically give myself the confidence to pull it out and do it... so thanks all. ~Erik~

as the title would suggest, what would you use to lubricate the workings of a seatbelt mechanism? I've got a seatbelt that keeps catching as I pull it out, and doesn't really pull back in very well, so I'm thinking maybe just free up the mechanism a little. I could always go junkyard one up without too much trouble, but I'd rather keep my old one if that's possible. as for lubricants, I was thinking something like a dry graphite lubricant, like you'd use for a key cylinder so I don't get the workings all gummed up... anybody have any experience with this kind of stuff? ~Erik~

I've always heard that you can have new tires studded, and then later taken out if you like, but once you drive without studs, you cannot have them installed later. might be wrong, but that's what I've always been told. ~Erik~

250 horse from an EA81? two words: Nitrous Oxide. if it's build stong enough, N2O will give you more power than you know what to do with...then it will promptly find your weakpoint...and break it. a nice wet system (nitrous with fuel added together) would do wonders, but now you're messing with enough power to break the block apart. ~Erik~

actually, worn rings would make perfect sense. Engine braking makes a significantly higher vacuum inside the cylinder during the intake stroke (hence the braking effect), but that massive vacuum would pull oil past the worn rings and into the cyliner, where it burns (partially) and comes out as a cloud of blue-grey smoke...not a guarantee, but stands to reason. ~Erik~

I agree with the above. 125 may or may not be good (soinds a little low to me), but a compression test is only really a good tool when you're looking at the difference between cylinders. If all your cylinders are right around 125, then that reading for #3 is ok....but if all the others, or even the other bank, are much higher, then you've found a little more clearly what the problem might be. I would lean towards a valve problem (burned, chipped, stuck, etc). With that result, get a leakdown test done, again on all 4 cylinders, to see more specifically what's failing. The reason I'm suggesting those tests is because they can all be done with the motor in the car, cylinder heads still on, without tearing thigs apart, to minimize getting into really big labor charges just yet. Another possibility I've run into is wiring. They switched the injector around, but did they make sure the #3 injector is getting a signal pulse in the first place? Maybe they did, I just want to make sure they're covering all the bases. If they can reach, try to switch the wires between #1 and 3 injectors. They'll fire at the wrong times, but the engine will still run pretty ok...that's a really good way to check the injector wiring...see if the misfire follows the wire, not just the injector itself. good luck with that...some misfires can be a b!#ch to find... ~Erik~

make sure it's not coming from the weep hole in the water pump. it's hard to see with the pump in the car, and when it's leaking, many times it will look like it's coming from the water pump mating surface or the thermostat area. you'll have to look up into the little pocket behind the water pump, behind the timing conver. if the weep hole is leaking, the pump is dieing...replace it before it siezes the bearing and throws the timing belt (not to mention loss of coolant). ~Erik~

it only acts like a 5-weight when it's not warmed up, to ease start-up. once you're up to operating temperature, it behaves like a 50-weight, which is plenty thick for just about any street car, even too thick for many. ~Erik~

intake manifold gaskets...they will tear. and if they need it, you might need timing idlers and/or tensioner. ~Erik~

do you (or anyone) happen to know exactly what the difference is? I was looking at all the key blanks we have (Subaru dealer), they all have exactly the same shank shape, grooves the same places, etc. I was going to get one that looked like it would work for mine (1991 Legacy) and get one cut from the VIN, but our parts department manager said that a key for a different Subaru won't work for mine...why else would they have so many different-looking ones? honestly, I really don't trust anything he says about parts (he's just a desk-jockey), but it made me want to be sure. will any other Subaru key work for my Legacy? ~Erik~

If you're looking for an oil that will eliminate noises more when you start up, you need to make the first number (the W part, for the viscocity it will behave like when cold) slightly higher. If you've been using 5W-30, give 10W30 a try. They'll both warm up to a 30-weight when they come up to temperature, but the 10W-30 will start out slightly thicker when cold...especially running something synthetic, since they'll hold better pour-ability when really cold. Oh, and if something says "synthetic blend", that could be 50/50, or could be nearly all conventional, with a couple synthetic portions added. my opinion: go synthetic, or don't. They both (conventional and synthetic) have their purposes and both will treat you great when used correctly. ~Erik~

correct. the Yamaha V6 was in that body-style, the V8 was after the body switch.

yeah, dude...your turbo's gone. the bushing has worn so bad that the impeller and turbine are rubbing the housing as they turn...carving little pieces of metal off and throwing them into your intake. I would bet you're burning quite a bit of oil as well. if you don't replace it fairly soon, the loss of oil or metal being injested could cost you a motor as well. I don't mean to be just dumping bad news on you, just trying to save you a lot more trouble and expence later. (or sooner) ~Erik~