raverjames21 Posted February 14, 2004 Share Posted February 14, 2004 I just installed my carb I bought off of Lostwater. It started and ran like new for like 2 minutes then began lobing. Now it wont idle but it still starts and runs. Please let me know what you guys think the problem could be. I need to know what the sensor is for on the carb because I left it disconnected as my car had 3 prong plug and this carb was made for 4 prong. I made sure to connect the choke and the other black wire but the sensor wire I left unplugged. I dont know if this would cause the problem but I figured I would ask. Also, The car had a coolant leak in the radiator so I was running on really low coolant. Could that cause the car to not idle properly? Please give me some input as I really wanna get the red beast on the road again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkyardgabe Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 have you tried spraying carb cleaner around to see if you have any vacuum leaks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 15, 2004 Author Share Posted February 15, 2004 Originally posted by junkyardgabe have you tried spraying carb cleaner around to see if you have any vacuum leaks I dont know about leaks but I did use WD40 to clean it. I ran perfectly for a few minutes so I dont think it is vac leak. Still wanna know what that sensor is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeet Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 What kind of carb is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 15, 2004 Author Share Posted February 15, 2004 Originally posted by skeet What kind of carb is it? Hitachi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 Raver, could you possibly have an 02 sensor on this vehicle? No mention of said vehicle make's it hard to pin point a problem. NO 02 => no ECU I just installed my carb I bought off of Lostwater. It started and ran like new for like 2 minutes then began lobing.(loPing?:ed) Now it wont idle but it still starts and runs. Please let me know what you guys think the problem could be. This time period could be two items 1) the time needed for the automatic choke to open. 2) The time required for the coolant temp to come up to a point where the ECU (if so equipped -see pervious question) goes into "close loop" I need to know what the sensor is for on the carb because I left it disconnected as my car had 3 prong plug and this carb was made for 4 prong. We need to know a bit more about said vehicle to deduct this. If it has an 02 sensor - them it has an ECU I made sure to connect the choke and the other black wire but the sensor wire I left unplugged. I dont know if this would cause the problem but I figured I would ask. If it has an ECU then it should have a "feed back" carb. This type of carb has a control circuit consisting of "duty solenoids" that control the air ingested by the main jet emulsion tube. This is how the ECU attempts to controls the mixture. Also, The car had a coolant leak in the radiator so I was running on really low coolant. Could that cause the car to not idle properly? If the engine was so hot it was approaching some form of thermal lock up then yes, I do not think this to be the case in just several minutes of idling. So you could have a feedback carb on a non feed back system a non feedback on a feedback system a problem with the carb's idle circuit after the choke opens or a problem with where the Mountian Oysters er er 'eers are seeded in March madness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 15, 2004 Author Share Posted February 15, 2004 Originally posted by Skip Raver, could you possibly have an 02 sensor on this vehicle? No mention of said vehicle make's it hard to pin point a problem. NO 02 => no ECU I just installed my carb I bought off of Lostwater. It started and ran like new for like 2 minutes then began lobing.(loPing?:ed) Now it wont idle but it still starts and runs. Please let me know what you guys think the problem could be. This time period could be two items 1) the time needed for the automatic choke to open. 2) The time required for the coolant temp to come up to a point where the ECU (if so equipped -see pervious question) goes into "close loop" I need to know what the sensor is for on the carb because I left it disconnected as my car had 3 prong plug and this carb was made for 4 prong. We need to know a bit more about said vehicle to deduct this. If it has an 02 sensor - them it has an ECU I made sure to connect the choke and the other black wire but the sensor wire I left unplugged. I dont know if this would cause the problem but I figured I would ask. If it has an ECU then it should have a "feed back" carb. This type of carb has a control circuit consisting of "duty solenoids" that control the air ingested by the main jet emulsion tube. This is how the ECU attempts to controls the mixture. Also, The car had a coolant leak in the radiator so I was running on really low coolant. Could that cause the car to not idle properly? If the engine was so hot it was approaching some form of thermal lock up then yes, I do not think this to be the case in just several minutes of idling. So you could have a feedback carb on a non feed back system a non feedback on a feedback system a problem with the carb's idle circuit after the choke opens or a problem with where the Mountian Oysters er er 'eers are seeded in March madness My car is a 1987 DL Wagon 4wd D/R. This is the car that Trogdor used to own. The carb I removed has the same sensor so I am guessing most hitachi carbs have this. The reason I did not connect this sensor is because my old carb had one black wire used for it and thes new carb uses a black and red wire. So if I am to hook this up I will need someone to tell me the proper way to wire it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROGDOR! Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 Also, the car has no O2 sensor and no ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 Raver, is this "sensor" as you call it, one of the two items shown in this picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 15, 2004 Author Share Posted February 15, 2004 Originally posted by Skip Raver, is this "sensor" as you call it, one of the two items shown in this picture? Looks kinda like the anti diesel solonoid. Mine isnt quite that large but similar. I thought it was a sensor as it looks like the 02 on my Nissan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 Well, the ADS (Anti Diesel Solenoid) shuts off the fuel to the idle circuit when the key is off. This is intended to prevent the engine from "running on" after turning it off. The ADS should get battery voltage when the key is in the "run" position. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 15, 2004 Author Share Posted February 15, 2004 Originally posted by Skip Well, the ADS (Anti Diesel Solenoid) shuts off the fuel to the idle circuit when the key is off. This is intended to prevent the engine from "running on" after turning it off. The ADS should get battery voltage when the key is in the "run" position. Hope this helps So how would one wire it in since this carb has 2 wires and my old one had one? Do you know the difference between the 2 carbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 Raver, you do not give enough information. With the little info you give I will not hazard a guess as to the wiring, I'm sorry. Get a picture, find it in a manual where ever. I will not have you shorting or causing other electrical problems around a bowl full of gas. You are welcome, and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 15, 2004 Author Share Posted February 15, 2004 Originally posted by Skip Raver, you do not give enough information. With the little info you give I will not hazard a guess as to the wiring, I'm sorry. Get a picture, find it in a manual where ever. I will not have you shorting or causing other electrical problems around a bowl full of gas. You are welcome, and good luck. That is why I asked if you knew the difference between the 2 carbs. I dont even know where to begin to look for info on my new carb. It was purchased from lostwater and I have no Idea what it came out of. I am sure someone on this board has a car with the 4 wire carb. I might need to see if lostwater has any info on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 The carb in the picture has a three wire plug 1) Elect. Choke 2) Bowl Vent sol. 3) ADS Just a wee bit too abstract for me to make a sugg. Again your welcome and I hope someone has a better mind's eye than I ********* UCON WHO?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 If it helps... back when my 87 GL had a hitachi (also no ECU or O2 sensor) I purchased a carb with a different setup than came on my car (I forget what I had, 3 or 4, but the carb I bought had 4 or 3) Anyway I just swapped the carb wiring harness and sensors and it worked fine for a year. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROGDOR! Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 James... try sticking your digi cam down in there and getting a picture of where the wires go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 16, 2004 Author Share Posted February 16, 2004 http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/raverjames21/detail?.dir=/My+Photos&.dnm=27bd.jpg http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/raverjames21/detail?.dir=/My+Photos&.dnm=37b0.jpg Wires. The 2 I have plugged in are choke and some other actuator. The 2 unplugged wires are to the solonoid. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/raverjames21/detail?.dir=/My+Photos&.dnm=8bde.jpg Solonoid. Car wont even star right now so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostWater Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 If I didn't mangle the harness, I will be happy to send it to you. The car was an 86 dl wagon 2wd, 5 speed I believe. It ran when parked (~5-6 years). Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 Mark, I'd like to help James if possible. Do you happen to remember if the wagon had an ECU or 02 sensor? Thanks for your previous reply, I'll dig out a emissions eq.wiring diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostWater Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 Skip, for the 02 sensor, I should just be able to see the cat, and the sensor sticking out. For ecu, where would that be? I may have to wait for some of this stinkin snow to melt though, we had 6" and the car is on the back of the farm (I could break my neck getting to it). Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 Mark, first, thanks for the quick reply. The 02 should be in the "Y" pipe cat. If the engine is out the wire should be an easy see. (after you get the hood open -arf arf.) The ECU will be under the steering column. The trim panel will need removed. Hate to put you through this, do you remember by chance ever seeing a "Check Engine" light when you turned the key on? Only ECU equipped cars have these. I have not heard back from Trogdor or James so maybe they got it worked out. So hold off on the "neck breaking" please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 Hey Guys I have a ’87 4WD wagon with the 3-wire carb (no ECU). All three wires are power, the bowl vent solenoid and anti-diesel solenoid power on with the key, the choke power is only on if the engine is running, get a test light or meter and check them. I going to guess from your description that the 2 wire ADS has a power and ground lead. I would switch the single wire ADS and 3 wire harness to the new carb, assuming the solenoid will fit. If not splice in the 3-wire plug or some individual insulated blade connectors for the proper leads and ground one of the 2-wire ADS leads. You can test the operation of the ADS by jumping power to it, you should here it click. If you blow a fuse you’ve done something wrong Good Luck Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 17, 2004 Author Share Posted February 17, 2004 Originally posted by Skip Mark, first, thanks for the quick reply. The 02 should be in the "Y" pipe cat. If the engine is out the wire should be an easy see. (after you get the hood open -arf arf.) The ECU will be under the steering column. The trim panel will need removed. Hate to put you through this, do you remember by chance ever seeing a "Check Engine" light when you turned the key on? Only ECU equipped cars have these. I have not heard back from Trogdor or James so maybe they got it worked out. So hold off on the "neck breaking" please. Thanx for your help, but I havent fixed it yet. I had way too much work to do last night and class all today (engineering isnt easy). Trogdor's engine just gave out so now I need to fix it so he can drive something to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raverjames21 Posted February 17, 2004 Author Share Posted February 17, 2004 Originally posted by All_talk Hey Guys I have a ’87 4WD wagon with the 3-wire carb (no ECU). All three wires are power, the bowl vent solenoid and anti-diesel solenoid power on with the key, the choke power is only on if the engine is running, get a test light or meter and check them. I going to guess from your description that the 2 wire ADS has a power and ground lead. I would switch the single wire ADS and 3 wire harness to the new carb, assuming the solenoid will fit. If not splice in the 3-wire plug or some individual insulated blade connectors for the proper leads and ground one of the 2-wire ADS leads. You can test the operation of the ADS by jumping power to it, you should here it click. If you blow a fuse you’ve done something wrong Good Luck Gary I want to stay away from swapping solonoids since I never found out why my old carb did the things it did. I think I will wait for skip to find his wiring diagram before I try splicing stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.