Backwards weber?

[Bash]

I have carbs used for vws. I put a rejeted weber on the subi EA82. searching the forum The one I have looks like its backwards from what others have.

The choke is facing the rear.

It's in the car and works great. I just cant understand the PVC stuff for some reason. My car has 5 hoses. Can someone lead me in the right direction on how to hook it up? I'm just lost.

 

This is the front of the engine.

Tubes on driver side

tubes on pass side

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Backwards is used to Avoid the Choke to hit the Power Steering's Pump on those Models equiped with that Option.

 

Beside some Work on the Accelerator cable and Hoses, it works normally...

 

But the 5/8" hoses that comes from the PCV system / Heads are unplugged in the Shown Photos...

 

OK, the Hoses goes like This: a "T" mates Both heads' Hoses and another "T" Mates the remain opening from the First "T" and the PCV Valve on the intake Manyfold's Back. all "T" are 5/8"

 

 

Then the Remaining opening goes to the Air Filter Box.

 

 

Kind Regards.

Edited November 5, 2010 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

[GeneralDisorder]

That's a Weber DFV or Holley/Weber 5200. They are a mirror image carb of the 32/36 DGV but often have smaller venturi's, etc. They were common on many Fords - Mustang II's, Pinto's, Cortina's, etc.

 

GD

[Bash]

Will this carb preform as well as the weber, or should I get a true weber. My rig wont see any hard core off road. might see some going to the lake back roads.

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

if its well Tuned and it Has the Big Venturis, it will Run very Fine for Sure.

[Bash]

Loyale 2.7 could you draw that set up?

The two tubes comming off the valve covers hook together with a T.

the other two tubes hook together with another T. Then the two T ends hook together?

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

No, the Main Hoses on the PCV System are:

1. a 5/8" Hose Coming from the Left Head.

   
   

2. a 5/8" Hose Coming from the Right Head.

   
   

3. a 5/8" Hose Coming from the PCV from the Intake Manyfold's Back.

   
   

4. the Air Filter's Box Opening at the Carb.

   
   

So, I Hooked both Heads (Nº1 and Nº2) onto one "T" that leaves one unused opening in that "T"

I Hooked the PCV Valve (Nº3) and the Air Filter Box (Nº4) to another "T" which leaves an unused Opening too there.

Then I Hooked Both remaining Openings in Both "T" Together.

See:

 

 

it is Easier with a 5/8" angled Coupler at 90º for the PCV:

 

 

 

I Use this At the Air Filer Box:

 

 

 

And my Subie Runs like a Champ since the Weber Swap in early 2006.

 

I Used two "T" Because both Heads blow a Li'l amount of oil and I Plannedto add an Oil Catch can between them. But if your subie doesn't have that problem, I Kindly suggest you to use a "+" for easier Hook up.

I Did another Weber Swap in a Friend's Subie using this:

 

I Hope this can Help.

Kind regards.

[Bash]

Got it!

Thanks

[GeneralDisorder]

That will work for the moment but is not correct. You need to keep the 1/4" line from the drivers side head to the air filter to create positive flow AND prevent sucking oil from the valve cover.

 

GD

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

with this Setup I Keep all the Hoses, but could I Ask which...

 

... 1/4" line from the drivers side head ...

 

...one is that 1/4" Line?

Kind Regards.

[GeneralDisorder]

The stock hoses have a "T" fitting that is 5/8" on two sides (PCV and Driver's side valve cover) and is 1/4" on the remaining port that goes to the air-box. That should not be changed - it is designed that way for proper PCV flow. Otherwise there is no positive flow in the system.

 

GD

[edrach]

Will this carb preform as well as the weber, or should I get a true weber. My rig wont see any hard core off road. might see some going to the lake back roads.

I've had one of each on two Brats. They both worked just fine and I didn't notice any difference in performance.

[edrach]

From the old USRM repair manual:

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/weber/weber-all.html

 

Somewhere there's a drawing of how the hoses are hooked up. If I can find it I'll post the link.

 

Here's some more: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/Table_of_contents.htm I'm still looking for the drawing.

Edited November 6, 2010 by edrach

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

The stock hoses have a "T" fitting that is 5/8" on two sides (PCV and Driver's side valve cover) and is 1/4" on the remaining port that goes to the air-box. That should not be changed - it is designed that way for proper PCV flow. Otherwise there is no positive flow in the system.

 

GD

 

Thank you for your Kind Answer...

Now I Remember that 5/8" "T" that Had a 1/4" outlet... but my 1985 EA82 (Californian Version) just got One in the PCV Hose and it had Hooked the "T" Outlets as Follows:

The 5/8" Out from that "T" went to the Stock Air Filter Box, to a Little side Box that had a Rubber "Valve" that only let the PCV to "Blow" Air inside the Air Filter Box.

Then the 1/4" Hose was Hooked to another part of the Air Filter Box, which had its Own independent Mini Filter Element, so the PCV only can "Breathe" thru this Opening.

That is the Way my Subie came. Then the Head's 5/8" Went each one to the Air Filter Box, to a Side Pipes that had the openings nearby the Carb.

Maybe there were Different Configurations for Different Markets or Year Models, I Guess?

Kind Regards.

[GeneralDisorder]

Could be - but Subaru has been using that same system (1/4" vacuum breaker line to the air filter from the driver's side valve-cover-to-PCV-hose) since at least the late 70's as far as I know - and on up into the SPFI EA82's, etc. The line allows positive flow from the passenger valve cover, through the crankcase, and out the driver's side valve cover using manifold vacuum provided by the PCV valve - the 1/4" line is there to *limit* the suction and prevent it from sucking oil out of the driver's side valve cover - without that line it will pull oil into the manifold or if that line is too large there will be no positive flow through the system because the PCV valve will just suck air straight from the air filter instead - if all the lines are equally sized then what stops the PCV valve from sucking fresh air more easily than crankcase air? See what I mean?

 

Here's some pics of the setup on my hatch - I'm using a "special" hose from a late '70s EA71 that necks down from 5/8" to 1/4" instead of using a second reducer for the Weber. Great if you can find one or possibly somone could figure out the part number - I've seen them on '79s.

 

 

 

 

GD

Edited November 6, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[Gloyale]

One other thing I am getting from this is that no one has addressed the Air Suction Valve boxes and there hoses.

 

I think those are 2 of the "5" he mentioned.

 

So with the PCV thing covered, I will address the ASVs

 

Each of the ASV hoses is connected to a plastic silencer box, and before that a reed vavle mounted in a metal housing box. A stainless steel tube connects the Exhaust port to this housing, which has a reed valve inside. I will refer to the metal boxes with the valves inside as the ASV.

 

The whole system is meant to reduce backfires, and for emissions. An overly complicated and outdated approach.

 

The easiest way I have found to take the system out, and plug the ports on the exhaust is the " $.50 " trick.

 

1) Remove the plastic silencers, and all the rubber hose.

 

2) Remove the mounting bolts for the ASV boxes.

 

3) Unscrew the large nuts that secures the stainless steel tube into the ASV boxes.

 

4) Wiggle the end of the stainless out of the box, place a Quarter in the opening, and thread the stainless tube back into the box and tighten.

 

5) Remount the ASV box to the head, but leave off all the rest of the rubber line and plastic silencer boxes.

 

With the quarters in the ports of the ASV, no exhaust gas can make it by, effectively sealing the system off.

 

 

Alternately, you can make small block off plates to bolt onto the ports at the exhaust, and remove the ASVs and the stainless tubes entirely for a cleaner look, but really it doesn't matter. The quarters trick is the simplest and quickest way and requires no special fabrication.

Edited November 6, 2010 by Gloyale

[Bash]

Nice, I was just about to ask if I could remove thoes tubes from the system. I don't have to get emissinons tested. What about this, I think It's a EGR valve

Do these need to be caped?

A shot of my accelerator mod.

[Bash]

Is this set up OK?

[GeneralDisorder]

Nice, I was just about to ask if I could remove thoes tubes from the system. I don't have to get emissinons tested. What about this, I think It's a EGR valve

 

Replace the EGR valve with one from a Legacy/Impreza (EJ), or one from an SPFI car - that will eliminate that pipe (which is a GIGANTIC vacuum leak) and toss the other valve up in the corner - that's an anti-afterburn valve and you don't need it.

 

Do these need to be caped?

 

No - just cap the manifold ports. The hard line assembly has no supply if you remove the hoses from the manifold ports and cap them.

 

A shot of my accelerator mod.

 

The cable has to be OVER the wheel - that won't work. Try it and you'll understand .

 

GD

[GeneralDisorder]

Is this set up OK?

 

Yes - that looks fine. Not the way I usually do them but looks effective.

 

GD

[Bash]

The cable has to be OVER the wheel - that won't work. Try it and you'll understand .

 

GD

 

This works great! This is what I mean about a backwards carb. On the other carbs have the lever on the other side. This one pulls twards the rear not the front.

[GeneralDisorder]

Ah - I see how you did it. Most people route the cable around to the front, etc. I suppose that will work too though.

 

GD