195 replies to this topic

[MilesFox]

I am rebuilding the back end of my 86-3door while converting 2wd to 4wd with xt6 5 lug. I am wire wheeling the suspension tube, trailing arms, and backing plates, to por-15 them, and seam weld some of it, and try to fashion end caps on the tube frame to keep the inside from rusting out.

The body is mostly clean, but the wheel arches are bubbly, and there is surface rust appearing in critical placed underneath.

The rear cargo holds are solid, but the body glue is forming rust underneath. I would like to treat as much of the seams without having to remove too much interior, since the interior is 100% intact and clean.

I removed the gas tank to clean all the dirt up, and to do some rust attacking underneath. This car will be my garage queen, as i am applying for collector plates, and this car is 100% original 1986 goodness with grandma immaculate interior, except for the sleeper 4wd conversion with 5 lugs.

[bheinen74]

hardly see any rust. por-15 is good but it wont stick to slick smooth for very long.

[TheLoyale]

Looking good! I will have to get my rump roast down to the shop tomorrow and give you a hand.

As for POR-15 not sticking to a smooth surface, yes it will. I Wire wheeled all 4 of my wheel wells and the entire underside of my EA82 and coated it all, still sticking. I would scuff it up just a little so it does really have something to bond to just for the sake of not having to go back in and fix it.

-Tom

[xbeerd]

if you scuff it up... then its not smooth!

i wanna get my car up in the air and do some work on the bottom as well. and just get abetter over all look at it.

Fox, did you ever get a mount or whatever you needed for the fuel pump so it doesnt hang down?

[TheLoyale]

if you scuff it up... then its not smooth!

i wanna get my car up in the air and do some work on the bottom as well. and just get abetter over all look at it.

Fox, did you ever get a mount or whatever you needed for the fuel pump so it doesnt hang down?

You could basically fab one from some sheet steal.

[aaronxs400]

you guys recommend the POR-15 stuff?

[TheLoyale]

you guys recommend the POR-15 stuff?

By all means yes!

Its great! I still touch up the underside after every winter with some black spray paint anyway, you can never have enough protection.

POR-15 all the way!

[aaronxs400]

would this stuff be suitable to do the entire bottom of the car?

what about using it after some bodywork on rusted out wheel wells....could you put this stuff on then apply your paint over it?

Are you guys using the their Metal-Ready prep surface stuff as well? Are you applying 2 coats?

Im very intrigued by this product. Living in Ohio, this stuff my be the ticket.

Edited by aaronxs400, 14 January 2011 - 01:54 PM.

[TheLoyale]

would this stuff be suitable to do the entire bottom of the car?

what about using it after some bodywork on rusted out wheel wells....could you put this stuff on then apply your paint over it?

I have done the entire underside of my car with it and the wheel wells and the bottom half of the doors (On the inside) you can also apply it right over rust, but I would wire wheel it first just to clean it up some.

You might be able to paint over it, I'm not sure how well paint will stick to it. POR-15 dries hard like paint, its not a rubber based coat.

[aaronxs400]

ok i looked up their site...looks like if you sand with 600 grit and primer you can paint right over it

[TheLoyale]

ok i looked up their site...looks like if you sand with 600 grit and primer you can paint right over it

Yeah, I haven't been on their site in a while. Good to know you can paint over it.

[MilesFox]

In the pamphlet that comes with the product, they have a topcoat paint that you apply over the por-15 treatment. The other products are like marine clean, to dissolve any grease or loose dirt on the metal.

My biggest tackle is going to be removingor getting behind the rubberized 'rusty jones' coating on the bottom of the car, for the sake at getting to the bare steel, mainly around the seams. Some of the rust-through is caused by salts and moisture to get under the coating and flake it out with the steel.

I would maybe like to seam weld some of the critical areas, where the spot welds and stampings begin to de-laminate as they rust. I would like to do this on all the solid metal that i would expect to rust in the future.

I am also seam welding the tube frame where the mounts are tacked on. There are full seam welds from the factory, but there are other edges that are just overlapped with no weld, that crust can get inside between the layers. I would like to fashion some end caps to keep the insides from rusting out, as it is quite flaky I had the idea of welding them up and filling the inside with enough oil to soak into the rusty flakes and stop oxidization. Same with the trailing arms, since there is rusty flakes shaking around in them, and there are open spots in the stampings on the ends. I have seen these rust out at the seams and split in half.

[aaronxs400]

i like the idea of seam welding and sealing up anything that could get moisture/salt into them.


those west coast guys dont understand the hell our cars have to go through with the salt.

[MilesFox]

I have had enough of these cars to see where all the rust starts, and what breaks when it's too rusty. This car is in pretty good shape considering its age and location. Most of the rust on it is sitting rust. I would be the 3rd owner of this car, at 110,000 mi.

[aaronxs400]

ive got rust in pretty much the same spots as you. although my fender wells are a little worse, and some on the rocker panels.

[TheLoyale]

ive got rust in pretty much the same spots as you. although my fender wells are a little worse, and some on the rocker panels.

Try this on for size. Needless to say, its all sealed up and protected now.

[aaronxs400]

I retract my previous statement.

WOW, looks like an Ohio car!


any pictures of the repair process?

[TheLoyale]

I retract my previous statement.

WOW, looks like an Ohio car!


any pictures of the repair process?

I know I have a few pictures, but I can't find them.

If I do find them, I will PM them to you.

Fox, Not trying to jack your thread.

[MilesFox]

I know I have a few pictures, but I can't find them.

If I do find them, I will PM them to you.

Fox, Not trying to jack your thread.

Well, this thread can discuss common rust spots in ea82's and how to combat them.

[aaronxs400]

well since we are discussing it.

Here are the rust spots I have...rear fender wells obviously, some rocker panel rot, and some rust at the bottom corners of the front door and front fender where the meet.

i think thats it.

[TheLoyale]

well since we are discussing it.

Here are the rust spots I have...rear fender wells obviously, some rocker panel rot, and some rust at the bottom corners of the front door and front fender where the meet.

i think thats it.

Totally clean up the door corners and POR them.

I have pretty much addressed all the rust on my EA82, I am glad to know my rear wheel wells (Where the coilover mounts) are solid and will stay that way thanks to POR-15.

[TheLoyale]

Fox,

I know what I am gonna get you for the 3-Door. A New Corner light that doesn't hold water!

[bratman18]

The EA82's also rust in the rear seat belt mounts. Around here anyway. There are literally only a few left on the roads around here. Good job with saving one!!

[xbeerd]

The EA82's also rust in the rear seat belt mounts. Around here anyway. There are literally only a few left on the roads around here. Good job with saving one!!

yeah, here too! i've only got a '*************** seat' belt in the rear now that i've conquered my cavernous wheel wells. went to unbolt the rear seatbelt mount and the whole damn thing came out.

[TheLoyale]

yeah, here too! i've only got a 'Blubber seat' belt in the rear now that i've conquered my cavernous wheel wells. went to unbolt the rear seatbelt mount and the whole damn thing came out.

Not mine, they are rock solid