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H6 100amp alternator on EJ22 swap


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23 replies to this topic

#1 scoobyclimbs

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 11:28 AM

It works.. I swapped it over with no real issues...plenty of juice for winch, lights...etc..

Those that run a/c may have to modify some..

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#2 jeffast

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 03:57 PM

im confused why do you have a fuse in your charging line?

#3 bheinen74

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 05:45 PM

something on the belt/pulley looks a little strange like the belt is not wide enuf? How does that work correctly?

#4 grossgary

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 06:09 PM

you got a new H6 alt - did you just get it from Subaru or parts store...or?? at 175,000 miles i doubt mine will last to 300k so i'm thinking about getting one sometime in the next year or so.

something on the belt/pulley looks a little strange like the belt is not wide enuf? How does that work correctly?

you can run fewer ribs no problem, that's done all the time, i've done it.

also - the H6 is a one belt set up where as the EJ22's are a dual belt set up. so the belt in this configuration isn't driving as much as the H6 does.

also - he's not running A/C.

also - it doesn't matter!:lol:

Edited by grossgary, 11 April 2011 - 06:12 PM.


#5 john in KY

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 07:59 PM

Gary,

I have a new one for a 2002 sitting on a shelf.

#6 grossgary

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 09:16 PM

Gary,

I have a new one for a 2002 sitting on a shelf.

Sold. I saw that in your add like a year ago or something.

Not that it's much to ship but are you going to the dragon or the farm? I'll be by the farm easter weekend and at least once a month this summer.

#7 Cyfun

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 01:06 PM

What an excellent idea! Wish I'd thought of that last month when I had to replace my alt. Not that I have any need for it... yet.

#8 eulogious

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 06:10 AM

im confused why do you have a fuse in your charging line?


For safety. When adding any wire to your stock system, it should be fused, especially one that carries 100amps. You see the same thing with high amp stereos. In fact I have a in line fuse holder that I am saving to do just the exact same thing once I upgrade my alt to a higher power alt. So props to the OP for wiring it up "The Safe Way".

The fuse isn't required in stereo comps usually because it's shorter than 18", but when something can pull 100amps over a wire, better be safe with a fuse than without.

Thanks for showing this as this is something that I will want to do. My setero alone pulls 110amps at full tilt, so the 100amp alt would almost cut it for me :lol:

What all was needed to do this swap?

#9 scoobyclimbs

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 02:11 PM

What all was needed to do this swap?[/quote]

1 -H6 alternator

Harness plug (foot of wires)and Eyelet connectors with a foot of wires(2 white) to splice into existing loom from an ej25 or h6 harness from 2000-04 . Try a junkyard for this...hard to find..!

Note: the eyelets are bigger on the h6/ej25 harness than ej22 that fit over the stud.

Solder/heat shrink butt connectors or tubing, split loom, zipties, 100amp fuse/holder. , 4ga wire.

I'll post up a pic of which wires to connect. for the charge/guage.

#10 eulogious

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 03:09 AM

Bumping this up again, since I am now in the need for a new alt, and I am going to try to put a newer EJ series alt into my older Legacy, so having your diagram on the wires would be really nice :)

You got that sitting around still?

#11 tractor pole

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 03:37 AM

Bump for a clean install.
where did you get that fuse holder?

I am doing the Nissan Maxima Alternator on my Loyale and I have been looking for one similar to that one.

thanks
Ben

#12 eulogious

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 03:43 AM

Answered my own question...

A quick search on this board and I came up with this:

http://ultimatesubar...alternator swap

To qoute Chux for easy reference:

what year EJ22? there are a few different alternator setups. but most work the same way.

from the page I include with a new harness:
"Large white wire: this is where (as you’ve probably guessed) all the current is. This can be connected directly to the positive battery terminal (a large fusible link is a very good idea), but it might be easiest just to connect directly to the large white wire that went to your old Alt.

Yellow wire: This wire is for the voltage regulator. It needs 12v+ when the ignition is on. Very little draw here, so it can come from virtually anywhere. There is an existing wire in the EA harness that will work well for this.

Black with White: This is for the charge light on the dash. It will get grounded if the yellow is getting 12v+ but the alt is not charging. Completely optional."


if you've got good continuity between the large white wire and the battery. and you've got 12v+ at the yellow wire while the ignition is on. than it's not your wiring.


Which pretty much sums it up :)

Bump for a clean install.
where did you get that fuse holder?

I am doing the Nissan Maxima Alternator on my Loyale and I have been looking for one similar to that one.

thanks
Ben


Stinger makes good quality stuff and it can be found for CHEAP online, so I would just use one of theirs. They even make a circuit breaker that would work just as well. I have a 200amp break installed for my stereo now, and I LOVE it. Didn't cost too much either. BUT you really don't NEED it, but it's always better to be safe than sorry. But if it's not there at all, it's a MUCH cleaner install :-) I probably won't fuse mine once I upgrade even though I have a fuse for it already. Just too much clutter IMHO, and it's not really needed.

Edited by eulogious, 30 December 2011 - 03:48 AM.


#13 renob123

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:38 PM

Bumping this up again, since I am now in the need for a new alt, and I am going to try to put a newer EJ series alt into my older Legacy, so having your diagram on the wires would be really nice :)

You got that sitting around still?


These guys get good reviews on NABISCO.

http://www.maniacele...11058hiamp.html

Jacob

#14 scoobyclimbs

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 05:28 PM

Bumping this up again, since I am now in the need for a new alt, and I am going to try to put a newer EJ series alt into my older Legacy, so having your diagram on the wires would be really nice :)

You got that sitting around still?


I've been really busy lately..sorry bout the delay on the diagram..

I'll get on that...

I have been able to use later legacy alt.(95-'99) as well .. I think they were 85amps...I have a few laying around...

#15 eulogious

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 06:02 AM

These guys get good reviews on NABISCO.

http://www.maniacele...11058hiamp.html

Jacob


Yup, those guys are on my list. But I don't have $200 sitting around for this quite yet, so I am going with the $75 recall alt from 1997. Found on locally...

I have been able to use later legacy alt.(95-'99) as well .. I think they were 85amps...I have a few laying around...


Cool. I am planning on getting one of those today when I get off of work actually. I started another thread about doing the swap. Thanks for confirming that the newer gen alts (legacy) will work with your setup :)

#16 tractor pole

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 12:56 PM

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I think I found that fuse holder,
is this it LINK?

looks the same.

thanks
Ben

#17 cmiller

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 04:23 PM

This is a great idea! I need to do this soon too Greg, especially with my dual battery set up now!

#18 Cyfun

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 04:21 PM

So why put a 100amp fuse on a 110amp alternator? Wouldn't you want a 110amp fuse at minimum?

#19 scoobyclimbs

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 06:19 AM

So why put a 100amp fuse on a 110amp alternator? Wouldn't you want a 110amp fuse at minimum?


I found that all the h6 alternators (ez30) were only 100amp not 110amp .
Perhaps a later generation or h6 3.0 or 3.6 has a 110amp.

Edited by scoobyclimbs, 19 March 2012 - 09:17 AM.


#20 scoobyclimbs

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:16 AM

On Sat, I helped Cmiller do the swap witha a 90amp ej25 alternator.
It was a cleaner install given the pulley was the same and no modification to the plastic coil/tb cover.
Cmiller will add the extra wiring and fuse to the battery later.

A side by side comparison of the ej22 alt. below, ej25 alt above. It is a drop in install.

Note: we cut out the long alt.mount bolt(between the two mount ears) and relpaced it with two smaller bolts and flipped the front bracket nut to the backside.(this way you don't have to remove the radiator to change alternators.)

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Here's what you'll need (about a foot of harness w/ plugs) they are labeled with what color you splice into the ej22 harness.

ej25 ends Blue w/ red stripe goes to ej22 black w/white stripe.
ej25 black w/yellow stripe goes to ej22 yellow

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Cut the third heavy gauge white wire from ej22 alt plug off at the 3way junction.

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Splice the two large white wires together and the other ends mentioned above. (solder all joints and use butt connectors/heat shrink).
We used a 1/4" 3/8 eyelet (cut out the eyelet and slide the two ends in and solder each end and crimp.)

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Notice the perfect alignment w/ the 90amp ej25 pulley..
The h6 alt. is slightly bigger therefore requires more modiction.

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Edited by scoobyclimbs, 19 March 2012 - 10:14 AM.


#21 Fairtax4me

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 07:44 PM

I know it doesn't matter but, on the H6 alt, couldn't you just put a pulley on it from an EJ alt?

#22 Pooparu

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:11 PM

I know it doesn't matter but, on the H6 alt, couldn't you just put a pulley on it from an EJ alt?



That's what I was thinking.:drunk:

#23 scoobyclimbs

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 08:05 AM

I know it doesn't matter but, on the H6 alt, couldn't you just put a pulley on it from an EJ alt?


That would be nice. However, as I stated previusly .
The h6 alternator is bigger and the pulley cannot be swaped.
I did try this already.:horse:

#24 Fairtax4me

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 02:51 PM

A case of easier said than done. Good to know.




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