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Rear Differential Bushings


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30 replies to this topic

#1 wrongturninwv

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 09:02 PM

2001 Outback 3.0 VDC. Need some tips on how to replace the 2 top bushings on the rear of the differential. Mine are rotted and broke apart. Can feel the bonk on take offs and turns. Some pics would be great. I ordered the bushings today and would like to do the job Friday. thanks

#2 Fairtax4me

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 11:44 AM

You're talking about the two bushings right next to each other that mount the differential housing to the rear cross member?

Never heard of anybody needing to replace those. You'll have to let us know how it goes.

#3 wrongturninwv

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 01:31 PM

Yes thats the ones. I have a pic of them but dont know how to add it on here. thanks

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#4 grossgary

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 01:41 PM

that's awesome, i've only ever seen that on 80's era soobs. i haven't seen any 90's EJ's with that happening yet.

#5 wrongturninwv

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 01:44 PM

Well if you have an 01 Outback or other and you get a bonk at take off or turns this is what to look at. Almost feels like a rear end slip or skipping. I think this is also what may be setting off my VDC light. Once you get going noise is gone and car drives fine.

#6 grossgary

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 02:33 PM

my xt6 has a broken top differential mount. you might want to inspect that if it has one.

i haven't heard back from the guy i was going to get a 2003 legacy from for parts.

#7 wrongturninwv

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 06:32 PM

Called Subaru and they said $436.00 to do the job. Said they would have to drop the whole rear crossmember. I know there is got to be a way to do the job a lot cheeper. They are talking 5 hours labor,and thats without the wheel alinement. Somebody here had to replace these before. Ned some help. Are these pressed in or can I just pick the old ones out and replace them. thanks

#8 subaru360

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 06:34 PM

You need to pull the crossmember out.

You can try to press them out on a press. They usuually won't come out. Easiest way to get them out is burn all the rubber out with a torch. Then cut the shell with a sawzall and you can get the shell out with a hammer and chisel. The new ones need to be pressed back in.

It's probably cheaper and easier to find a used crossmember with good bushings.

#9 wrongturninwv

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 06:41 PM

Not the best news but I am glad to get a reply. Thanks Time to get out the WD40 and start spraying bolts.

#10 Fairtax4me

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 11:35 PM

I kinda wonder if a C frame press might fit up there if you drop the differential out of the way. Like 360 said, You can cut the old bushings out, but getting the new ones pressed in is going to be the trick.

#11 CNY_Dave

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 07:38 AM

Someone here cheated and just filled around the bushings with some kinda urethane windshield goo. Might transmit a bit more noise but if/when mine go that's what I'll be doing.

Mine look a little better than yours, 155,000 miles so far.

Dave

#12 Durania

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 09:23 AM

This tutorial is for an 04 STi, I wouldn't think there would be that much difference in the basic engineering design side of the bushings.

http://turninconcept...ings/index.html

I would give Turnin Concepts an email and see what they can do for you.

http://turninconcepts.com/

#13 subaru360

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 09:44 AM

This tutorial is for an 04 STi, I wouldn't think there would be that much difference in the basic engineering design side of the bushings.

http://turninconcept...ings/index.html

I would give Turnin Concepts an email and see what they can do for you.

http://turninconcepts.com/


The older ones don't have that removable bar. You have to pull the whole rear subframe out.

#14 Durania

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 10:16 AM

The older ones don't have that removable bar. You have to pull the whole rear subframe out.


Well, was a shot in the dark. Sucks for the OP.

#15 wrongturninwv

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Posted 30 April 2011 - 09:46 AM

Thanks again for all the great info. Monday I get the new bushings from Subaru. Will see what they look like and what I can do. Dont want to try and fill them cause I need to keep car. Saw a kit made by Whiteline on Ebay,KDT905. These are made of polyurethane,and they claim that it lasts longer than the rubber bushings. What I would like to know is polyurethane more flexible than rubber ??? If they are more flexible I may be able to just dig the old rubber ones out leaving the steel insert in the crossmember and greese the polyurethane bushings and try pushing them in from the back side without droping crossmember or destroying the new bushings. I think the 2 bolts in the back of the differential unscrew out. Am I right ?? thanks

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#16 zuzu27

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 08:48 AM

I too have the same problem with my 2000 Legacy GT wagon.

Did you ever get this problem resolved?
I was wondering how you got the old bushings out and the new ones back in?

Thanks for the help,

Joey

#17 CNY_Dave

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 06:48 AM

No one's going to try the urethane sealant?


Dave

#18 99wagon

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:53 PM

I have the same issue with the knocking. I was curious if anyone had experience with using these inserts whiteline KDT 910 I am sure they aren't an exact fit but if they are close it seems like they could be modified to fit. And may be an easy solution to this issue.

http://www.ebay.com/...7#ht_1922wt_818

#19 cmill189

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 12:01 AM

I used the Whiteline KDT-903 kit, well half of it, in my 2000 Outback. I did that first before doing a full bushing replacement (KDT-905) in the rear diff-front bushings. It is designed for '08+ Impreza's, but will fit the older Legacy bushings with very minor trimming around the edges.

If you have a manual, just the rear inserts alone will make a pretty drastic difference in how much the rear diff slaps around when loading and unloading power. They're also very cheap. The full bushing replacement in the front crossmember on the rear diff eliminated the rest of the slop.

#20 nengerer

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 05:22 AM

I've got my rear diff clunking around on me during acceleration and after a brief inspection, I found my rear diff mounts in the crossmember look just like the ones at the beginning of this post.

In devising a strategy, I'm going to have to say that I'm with cmill on this one. Google searches about replacing the whole bushings lead to some unsettling stories involving torches, presses and entire crossmember removal. So I'm going to try to just put inserts into the worn bushings and see if that fixes it.

If I have no luck there, I'm going to try out that the urethane sealant CNY_Dave suggested.

(That mention comes from here:http://forums.nasioc...=whiteline diff

These are set to fit Outbacks 99-03:

http://www.nolathane...&sans_vehicle=1

And since those also fit the 08-11 WRX, then these Whiteline ones should also work:

http://www.whiteline...&sans_vehicle=1

I'll be sure to report back on how it goes! Having worked on cars plenty, I know it will involve the following: :banghead:

Edited by nengerer, 02 June 2012 - 05:27 AM.


#21 brycarp

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:49 AM

This stuff (sugru Hacking Putty) is another possible way to go:

http://www.thinkgeek...ls/e976/?srp=21

I know it's a bit of a "left field" suggestion, but it's pretty interesting stuff. I have no idea how well it would stand up over time, but for someone who wanted to try the urethane sealant approach, it might be worth a trial run making a representative-size glob of that and of this, letting them cure, and seeing which one you wanted to trust more as your first attempt.

#22 1997reduxe

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:58 AM

Hmmm. I am going up Austin soon to get a used
differential for my 95 legacy wagon.

I will be watching this for reports of success esp. in
the urethane type bushings, as I'm not really having knocking probs
but since the diff. would be out I might was well pack it, inserts etc...

But would this pretty much be the same procedure for a 95?
And if you were replacing diff., are there any other parts worth
checking on or replacing?

Thanks a lot.
Dan

#23 CNY_Dave

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 12:20 PM

For access can you simply drop the diff?

#24 nengerer

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 07:57 PM

Hey Subie Crew,

I'm back after trying the inserts-only approach to worn rear differential bushings. By using the inserts in the old bushins, I have about a 95% reduction in the number of times I hear/feel the differential moving around. It now only moves in the most extreme cases - for example, backing out of a very steep incline and then accelerating hard.

In short, if you don't have the resources to press the bushings out of the crossmember, just using the inserts is an easy way to make a big difference.

Here are the 49191 Nolathane inserts I purchased:

Posted Image

Here are the bushings, they are completely torn, allowing the diff to move up/down and forward/back with little to no resistance (wet from penetrating oil):

Posted Image

They needed to be trimmed. They will have to be narrowed and shortened. How much will depend on your vehicle and the condition of your bushings:

Posted Image

Here they are in place, be sure to tighten them down really well. After they break in a bit, go back and make sure they are snug:

Posted Image

And as I said, an easy/cheap (<$50) way to make a big difference.

Next project, replacing my leaky valve cover gasket! :cool:

#25 cmill189

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 08:27 PM

Hey you did EXACTLY what I did, nice. Except mine are yellow ;)




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