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Abnormally high hot idle (Hitachied EA-81) -- any ideas?
Posted 22 March 2004 - 09:59 AM
I am going to dig into the troubleshooting section of the FSM, but I'd like to see if you folks have any ideas.
Before, I was blaming the abnormal idle on the leak in the intake manifold, but the manifold is (finally) back on the car with new gaskets, new original bolts and torqued to the spec, but the problem persists. I marked all the hoses well before taking the manifold off, so there shouldn't be a mix-up there.
The only changes from "before" are cleaned orifice (in the eng.block) and metal pipe going from the block to the EGR valve (both were clogged dead).
Posted 22 March 2004 - 10:08 AM
Posted 22 March 2004 - 10:09 AM
Posted 22 March 2004 - 10:53 AM
Tapping (or even stomping) the gas does not render any results -- the idle only goes a notch higher. It would be too nice if this could be solved by adjusting the throttle cable, but I doubt it would help -- the car started doing it on her own accord, it sat for a while, yes, but nobody messed with throttle, vacuums or carb.
I hope it's not the carb, not again!
I will crank her up right now without the airbox and see what the choke plate is doing during all that.
Also, isn't 13-16 ft-lb of torque kinda low? But that's what both books I have say. We tightened it to 20 though -- 16 sounded way too loose! My torque wrench has never been calibrated.
Would it hurt anything if the torque is a bit off?
UPDATE: On cold, I tapped gas once -- the choke closed. I started her and idle was very irregular at first then I tapped gas, it straightened a bit and went to 1500 rpms, but still sounded like the firing was very irregular. Then the same thing - it went up to 2500. At that point the choke was half-way open. I opened it all the way, idle went down to 1500, but still irregular. I guess I need to try cleaning the choke and see if I can adjust hot idle if it opens/closes OK after that.
I hope we didn't fill the engine with crud while replacing the manifold gaskets. I also have a big exhaust leak around rear crossmember.
Posted 22 March 2004 - 10:59 AM
Posted 22 March 2004 - 10:11 PM
Posted 22 March 2004 - 10:17 PM
Simple to check - run it till it's hot, and then open the air filter box - if the choke plate is open all the way, then it's working.
My vote goes next to "carb rebuild" time. Pop the top off the carb, blow out the passages with compressed air, spray liberally with carb cleaner both inside and outside of the carb - put the top back with a new gasket. Should do the trick.
Posted 22 March 2004 - 10:20 PM
Posted 22 March 2004 - 10:30 PM
Posted 26 March 2004 - 03:46 PM
Anyway, the choke plate was the first thing I personally checked with the airbox open.
Tap gas before starting -- it closes like it should.
Warm-up -- it's opening. The car sat for a good while, so first couple of starts the choke didn't want to open 100% (only 90%), but now it does open fully.
We also traced all the vacuum lines and found 2 or 3 that were not where they were supposed to be, that fixed rough idling, but it's still idling way too high.
There's barely 5-7K (if that) on the carburetor after we bought it (fully rebuilt), so the carb is the last thing I want to mess with, really.
Posted 25 January 2011 - 11:11 PM
Posted 29 January 2011 - 11:08 AM
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