TheLoyale Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Heres a picture, showing the rear "Straps" This is a 2" kit. Installed: Strut turned around (I did not want to just turn the tophat around) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Very informative, thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Interesting, I've never seen a picture of it done that way before. I make my rear lift straps with a double bend in them to drop the strut straight down and keep it turned the same way. That looks a hell of a lot easier with just one 45° angle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I cut the eye off the bottom of the strut and add a 2" spacer in there then weld it all back together...................... Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 Well thats what i would do if i had a welder! :-p But i dont so im going to have to get creative..still not sure how im going to bend the rear straps..im a little lacking in the tool/workspace department. I can see torches and visegrips... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 This is a much stronger way to lift the rear if you go with a top strut lift in the rear. It can't bend or slip out of place if you hit a bump too hard, 100% rigid. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 This is a much stronger way to lift the rear if you go with a top strut lift in the rear. It can't bend or slip out of place if you hit a bump too hard, 100% rigid. -Bill That looks great! I think I'm gonna hit the garage and fab that up RIGHT NOW. Much better design than what I have. Nice! I'd rather do strut top than weld the strut. That way if I blow one and have to replace it, it's a unbolt/bolt in replacement. I can do it on the side of the road in 10 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 i like those. but im going for cheap/easy. for now, maybe when moneys easier to come by ill get a bigger lift. i dont plan on doing even half the stuff you take your cars through, maybe some mild trails. so im not too worried about the structure. its mostly for looks and winter time. its my DD so i can't go too extreme. but i plan on making some kind of "idiot driver rescue vehicle". you would be amazed at how many people i pull out of the ditches in the winter:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 so i picked up a set of mazda six lug rims with cooper discoverer a/ts 225/75/r15s got all 4 with center caps..the tires are worn pretty good but its still past Washingtons head when i did the quarter test. so i decided to do a test fit on my parts wagon. no lift. and not on a jack and at the rear of the front tire checking the offset( i only put one side on so it looks like its crooked) with a 2 inch lift,some triming and alot of love from the bfh they should clear pretty well. im so excited.:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Nice score! Chrome too.. That is a real tight fit with out the lift, very close to the front rocker corner. 2" lift will really help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 if i trim the fender rust away and beat the rocker back a little it should clear really well with/out the lift. on the road anyways. ill have to flex it to double check. but the lift is just 2" more ground and tire/body clearance.. so thats going to happen too. and for shiggles im going to mount them on my brothers hatchie and crank it up and trim/beat till they fit well. then when my lift comes im going to take them back and make him get his own.(its rusted really badly) TUNDRAWAGON!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 (edited) ...OH YES>>> they clear alright. a slight rub at full lock but some more love from the bfh and all should be well. oh and i still need to crank up the front too. yes i know i cut up a hatchie.. but its wayyyyy to rusty to save. so far im 300 into the hatchie. please dont kill me GD.. i think i have an addiction.. my wag, the parts wag, the "swampdonkey", the rumblebeast(hatchie) and far off in the background is the outback i did the motorswap on. Edited May 7, 2012 by AKghandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I don't think you understand what rust is...? Look at my EA81 and then talk to me HAHA! Wheels look good though. "Swampdokey" Do I dare ask? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 (edited) yeah... the hatchie looks solid but its mostly foam and yellow paint...(i didnt do it) the sedan. 92 loyale 5spd. when i got it "swamp donkey" was carved into the hood. at some point it took a little trip down the kenia river(according to the carfax carved on the roof.) and i do mean down the river, it has been submerged a few times. its a beater but with trimming and beating it'll be a good trail rig runs. has a hell of a TOD but seems solid enough.. and it was free. Edited May 7, 2012 by AKghandi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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