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Alternator Problems Then Motor Problems
Posted 23 January 2013 - 02:00 PM
Go to start car and my motor is making a crazy noise it sounds like spoons in a blender Turn it off but still goes into gear and will move, barely. I noticed 2 things, first I noticed that my flywheel has grinding marks and some oil on it ? And the little corner section that i use to line up timing marks broke off. Did not fall into the flywheel area, I picked it up and threw it away.
2nd thing I noticed was that my oil cap was missing because one of the pieces that locks it in broke off, I've been waitin for it to fall off lol anyways look around to see if it was stuck in like the timing belts or something cause I have open belts. Not anywhere in sight
So now I'm stumped I have no friggin idea what happened. Motor and alternator still turn over, I looked at all the teeth on the flywheel while turning the motor over, not missing any.
Here's the "grinding" marks on my flywheel
Posted 23 January 2013 - 02:59 PM
Bad flywheel ? Could the flywheel have moved because I didn't shut the car off immediately after everything cut out from the alternator ?
I don't see how alternator problems could turn into trans problems but what do I know I'm still Learning
Posted 23 January 2013 - 03:05 PM
Posted 23 January 2013 - 03:08 PM
Posted 23 January 2013 - 08:49 PM
Anyways so what gives ? What could the problem be ?
Here's my starter:
Posted 23 January 2013 - 11:00 PM
Posted 24 January 2013 - 01:46 AM
Posted 24 January 2013 - 03:38 AM
I would suggest that you put a prying tool into the timing/inspection window and see if you can shift the flywheel fore and aft.
I agree. Its possible your flywheel is loose and is separating from the crank.
The teeth on your starter are getting chewed up because its not making good contact with the teeth any more.
Posted 24 January 2013 - 03:43 AM
Many years ago I was driving a Daimler Majestic Major to a friend's wedding and the 'blender full of spoons' noise happened; it turned out to be a bolt fallen from the torque converter assembly. It wasn't my car so I didn't see to the fix but it involved removing the gearbox (engine is very heavy on those old Daimlers). On 'our' Subarus taking the engine out is so easy you might as well do it and check things out - good opportunity for a new clutch too.
Posted 24 January 2013 - 09:32 AM
Ill go out to the garage in a bit and see if I can move that flywheel around, it's too early still haha
I guess it would be a good time to pull the motor, at 236xxx and a cracked head for the past 10k it could use some work only thing wrong with that is I have a small garage and no cherry picker :/
Posted 24 January 2013 - 11:53 AM
I guess the only way to find out is pull the motor, which I don't wanna do but seems to be the only option. Unless someone else has an idea of what it could be ....
Posted 24 January 2013 - 01:01 PM
Anyways I'm just gonna pull my motor so has anyone ever used one of these ? Reviews seem to be good on them and I know my ea82 does not weigh 880lbs so this one should do fine
Posted 24 January 2013 - 01:09 PM
Posted 24 January 2013 - 01:44 PM
remember you need a good strong beam to mount the hoist. If you're on a tight budget, a small engine crane is much better value because it's more versatile - you can use it anywhere and don't need a beam or a scaffold. You can also wheel the whole thing with the engine attached to a work bench.
Posted 24 January 2013 - 06:43 PM
My thoughts about the flywheel moving fore/aft was based on your photo: the edge of the opening appears to have been sawed-at (like by a spinning disc) rather than pummeled/cracked/abused by a loose object. So, another thought: Have you checked your crank-pulley bolt to see if it is very loose?
Posted 25 January 2013 - 08:31 PM
So hopefully I find out the problem tomorrow !
Posted 26 January 2013 - 11:03 AM
I normally work on my own so it's been a really good investment. It's only rated at 500kg but that's more than I'll ever need.
Posted 27 January 2013 - 12:27 PM
But I pulled it out to find this: After I took the clutch off.
Looks like a flywheel bolt broke off, and I can literally grab my flywheel and move it back an forth to make it go " clunk clunk clunk "
Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:54 PM
So should I just re tap a new thread and put a bolt in there and call it good ?
It's the hole in the middle:
Rear main could also be replaced lol
Posted 28 January 2013 - 01:26 AM
Good luck, RV
Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:56 AM
If you're going to do a lot more work on the bottom end, it'd be worth having a machine shop re-drill all the holes, tap with more common threads and supply some high-tensile bolts to fit. But if you're not planning to do the 'bottom end' I'd tend to 'loktight' the other bolts and use extra 'loktight' on the bad one. You could drill and re-tap the bad one using a different thread pattern (if you cant find the right tap) and mark it with a punch to make sure you knew which one it was. Leaving a bolt out altogether might be OK but you could have balance and vibration problems. One thing we used to do on race engines was to drill a small hole through each bolt-head and, after torquing down, wire them to each other with lock-wire.
Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:12 PM
I don't want to leave a bolt out because that's probably what was causing my flywheel to clunk around, but one bolt being gone seems like it should not have that much of an impact on the flywheel and make it move that much ?? I might consider re threading that hole once I find out the pitch and get another flywheel bolt. And hopefully that'll work, this motor still ran good and had life left in it. My plan was to literally run it until I couldn't no more. Being its my first Suby lol
Posted 28 January 2013 - 09:02 PM
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