rogo Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 As title says...I made the ultimate error. So now I need someone with far more knowledge on the subject then myself to evaluate my options. Can anyone tell me my realistic options? It doesn't seem deep at all, but very apparently roughed up the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 I would polish the surface with a fine grit sand paper so there are no sharp spots. I can't tell from the pic wether you scratched the crank or the wall that holds the seal, if its the wall that hold the seal I would just polish it and reinstall the seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 See if you can find a Speedi-sleeve to press over the end of the crank to provide a new surface for the seal to ride on. http://www.skf.com/group/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html The rear main seals can turn into a nightmare really easily on these engines and they rarely leak even after 300k miles so it's best to leave them alone if they aren't obviously pissing oil out. But in your case, that horse has left the barn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYLER R Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Just a good polish/sand and I would think you would be good. Agree with mikaleda though, you cant really tell from the pic what is marred up. Either way, I dont think you are too bad off. I know that feeling though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 See if you can find a Speedi-sleeve to press over the end of the crank to provide a new surface for the seal to ride on. http://www.skf.com/group/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html The rear main seals can turn into a nightmare really easily on these engines and they rarely leak even after 300k miles so it's best to leave them alone if they aren't obviously pissing oil out. But in your case, that horse has left the barn. +1 good idea if its the crank that is scratched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogo Posted May 8, 2013 Author Share Posted May 8, 2013 That is indeed the crank in the photo. I was having a hard time uploading from my phone, so I just cropped the hell out of it. Thank you all for the tips. I had read about replacing them and how iffy it can be. But it was indeed leaking. I will check out my options and report back. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 i can't tell from the pic - but it is the crankshaft itself that's scratched? if it's the outer sealing surface you could entertain dapping good sealant...but i'm guessing it's the actual crank based on the comments... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 sleeve it. I've only seen it done on 2 subaru engines, but they both held up and didnt leak. But they were on the front crank seal. Still should be able to get a sleeve big enough for the rear of the crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 That won't polish out. It looks like just behind the original wear mark the crank is good. Maybe you can drive the new seal in a bit further (but not too far to block the drain port) to allow the main part of the seal to ride on the clean part of the crank. Measure some stuff with a depth gague to see if this is an option. For next time you remove a shaft seal use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 i would agree that a sleeve is the way to go. but i have not been able to locate the part number for a subaru rear crank sleeve. and it isn't easy finding a supplier that even list ''skf speedi sleeves'' as part of their inventory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogo Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 I'm having difficulty finding the part # also. Anyone know it? I have a 2004 EJ259 (California emissions, same crank though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Mic the crank and match up the size here: http://www.skf.com/files/877995.pdf Then I guess you'll have to hope you can find it somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogo Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Mic the crank and match up the size here: http://www.skf.com/files/877995.pdf Then I guess you'll have to hope you can find it somewhere. I don't have a micrometer, I'm thinking it might be time to invest into one. However I did find this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Line-MS343-3-381-Crankshaft-Repair-Sleeve-GM-Subaru-K-Line-Tools-/121099406271?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160 From what I could find searching, that size was on Subaru 2.5's. But I have a hunch it was for the phase 1's, though I can't confirm if they do in fact have a different crank. It was $10 something shipped from a Michigan (home state) company so I figured I could at least try it. Doing some searching on Napa, and inputting my car. They seem to offer this kit http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NOS99334_0390582949 Which is sized .399, which might be phase 2's? Referencing NAPA's compatability list, my year Legacy is on there. I will report back on what I find to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 i think folks have swapped Phase II cranks into Phase I blocks and the other way around....so i did a cursory glance of some subaru rear main seals and they are listed to fit all Subaru EJ engines from the 90's and 2000's. i'm sure you could verity on opposed forces but i'm going to bed....and i guess there could be other differences, like maybe the rear main seal isn't the end-all-be-all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Yeah, that needs a sleeve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruUser Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I don't have a micrometer, I'm thinking it might be time to invest into one. However I did find this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Line-MS343-3-381-Crankshaft-Repair-Sleeve-GM-Subaru-K-Line-Tools-/121099406271?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160 From what I could find searching, that size was on Subaru 2.5's. But I have a hunch it was for the phase 1's, though I can't confirm if they do in fact have a different crank. It was $10 something shipped from a Michigan (home state) company so I figured I could at least try it. Doing some searching on Napa, and inputting my car. They seem to offer this kit http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NOS99334_0390582949 Which is sized .399, which might be phase 2's? Referencing NAPA's compatability list, my year Legacy is on there. I will report back on what I find to work. I realize this is an old thread but posting this info for the benefit of others who like me may run across this thread due to the need to sleeve the rear crankshaft of their EJ25. The Napa link above is not the correct sleeve for EJ25. Trust me, I bought one and crushed it like a beer can trying to install it before buying a micrometer. The above one fits a crank that is 3.338 to 3.346 which is too small. In fact SKF does not make an appropriate sleeve to fit an EJ25 Subaru crank. My crank mic'd at 3.383 and according to FSM new spec is 3.384. SKF listings jump right over the size needed for our cranks. As a few bearing shops told me, "you have an odd duck" (in terms of sizing) and suggested Subaru made a rear crank size that is "uncommon". I did find the other company another poster above mentioned that is listed in MI @ Silver-Seal.com. According to their website they have a sleeve that fits EJ22 and EJ25 and is listed as 3.384. I've order this one and will report back when its received if it fits correctly. In the meantime, if you do decide to go down the road of replacing the RMS, tread lightly, as even though our cranks are steel they are softer than you might think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruUser Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 I spoke with customer service at Silverseal.com and confirmed they make a sleeve that fits the rear crankshaft of EJ motors. For those interested their sleeve is 3.381 and my crank was 3.383 and FSM specs it as 3.384. They told me a little light heat with a light bulb or blow dryer and you can gently slide it on and shouldn't need their tool either as they have discontinued the install tool. Great deal overall as their sleeves run $7.70 + about $9 for shipping making the total less than $20. The SKF sleeve I mentioned above actually cost me $60! I received the sleeve on Saturday and took it to the machinist who currently has my motor. He checked it and said it should be a nice fit. Hope this helps others who make this unfortunate mistake. I've learned and hopefully won't need another one of these again but it's a relief their is actually a company that makes a sleeve the fits the rear crankshaft of our EJ motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 I spoke with customer service at Silverseal.com and confirmed they make asleeve that fits the rear crankshaft of EJ motors. For those interested their sleeve is 3.381 and my crank was 3.383 and FSM specs it as 3.384. They told me a little light heat with a light bulb or blow dryer and you can gently slide it on and shouldn't need their tool either as they have discontinued the install tool. Great deal overall as their sleeves run $7.70 + about $9 for shipping making the total less than $20. The SKF sleeve I mentioned above actually cost me $60! good info, sounds like a winner. what are these things called besides redisleeve ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruUser Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 I think the name Is dependent on the brand. I have heard ones called Redisleeve, Spedisleeve, etc. For example Silver Seal's brand name is Microsleeve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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