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Duty c and clutches


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13 replies to this topic

#1 bgambino

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 12:07 PM

Hey fellas

 

I need to do my duty C

1996 OB wagon 2.5L automatic

 

1--Is there any procedure anywhere that outlines this procedure?? pictures too?? :)

searched here but did not find it here

 

2--what about the clutches you guys talk about replacing at the same time??

SOMEONE must know this procedure and have done it

Can anyone provide some guidance? I don't even know what these clutches look like

 

thanks very much

 



#2 johnceggleston

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 01:23 PM

pic of the inside of the tail shaft section.

the duty c has the green wire.

it comes as a ''valve body assembly''.

make sure you get 2 identical gaskets for the valve body.

 

the basket / drum type thing contains the clutch discs and spacers.

if you have binding, you probably do not need to replace them,

but use your best judgement.

 

 

suby2.jpg


Edited by johnceggleston, 21 August 2013 - 01:25 PM.


#3 wentz912

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 03:37 PM

So is this procedure as simple as having the parts in hand, jacking the car, drop drive shaft and fluid, pull tail housing? That seems waaaaaaay too easy.



#4 efseiler

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 04:37 PM

I had that problem for years on a '96 OBW I used to drive...I'm glad somebody finally figured it out!  :-D

 

 

Cheers!

 

--Damien



#5 johnceggleston

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 07:18 PM

So is this procedure as simple as having the parts in hand, jacking the
car, drop drive shaft and fluid, pull tail housing? That seems waaaaaaay
too easy.

well there is the exhaust as well.

and the speed sensor,

maybe the trans mount,

and the heat shield, ?

and you are on your back, on the ground unless you have a lift.

but yeah, it is that easy.

 

the clutch discs are the hard part.

apparently getting the right parts is a challenge.

i have not done those, but most folks talk about ''matching up the parts'' at the dealer.

this does not make sense to me , but that is what i hear.


Edited by johnceggleston, 22 August 2013 - 09:12 AM.


#6 CNY_Dave

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 08:03 PM

And make sure the connector does not disappear into the trans pan after you unplug it...



#7 gbianchi

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 06:33 PM

nice hammers there Mr. Eggleston



#8 johnceggleston

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 07:02 PM

nice hammers there Mr. Eggleston

 

not mine.

i snagged  that pic several years ago from i don't remember where.

but i assume it came from here.

and i saved it so i would have one when needed.



#9 bgambino

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 02:52 PM

pic of the inside of the tail shaft section.

the duty c has the green wire.

it comes as a ''valve body assembly''.

make sure you get 2 identical gaskets for the valve body.

 

the basket / drum type thing contains the clutch discs and spacers.

if you have binding, you probably do not need to replace them,

but use your best judgement.

 

 

suby2.jpg

 

thanks John...!

WOW...no one has messed with those clutches...!
I sure ain't then....

I did the secret hand shake 2 months ago and it threw the code for the duty c

While I'd like to do it...I am afraid to mess with it if we have no experience on this board

------so order the Duty C (called a valve body assembly? also)....and get 2 gaskets?

No adhesive is used on the gaskets?

What about the tail piece ? How does that seal against the back of the tranny?  I assume ATF is swimming in this space yes?



#10 bgambino

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 03:03 PM

pic of the inside of the tail shaft section.

the duty c has the green wire.

it comes as a ''valve body assembly''.

make sure you get 2 identical gaskets for the valve body.

 

the basket / drum type thing contains the clutch discs and spacers.

if you have binding, you probably do not need to replace them,

but use your best judgement.

 

 

suby2.jpg

 

John

 

Nice photos of the 95 T belt job

 

I have to do my nieces T belt etc on her 2007 impreza

Is there any difference in doing the 2007 than the 1995? (aside from a different tensioner)?

thanks a lot



#11 johnceggleston

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 09:07 PM

Is there any difference in doing the 2007 than the 1995? (aside from a different tensioner)?

the belts are different parts since they have a different number of teeth,

but other than that they are the exact same process.

 

wait a minute, it is the same as the 00 - 04 SOHC engines.

i ASSUME it is the same as the 07 SOHC engine.

but i have never seen one, not my generation.



#12 bgambino

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 02:46 PM

the belts are different parts since they have a different number of teeth,

but other than that they are the exact same process.

 

wait a minute, it is the same as the 00 - 04 SOHC engines.

i ASSUME it is the same as the 07 SOHC engine.

but i have never seen one, not my generation.

 

John

 

...going back to the dutyC

Can you please give me a blow-by-blow outline of the procedure??  You seem to be the big kahuna on the board as far as sharing knowledge---thanks very much

 

I have the drive shaft out---drives so nicely without the T bind

Drop exhaust would be next I assume

Do I HAVE to loosen/remove the tranny-to-body bracket? or can I just start unbolting the rear section of tranny?

 

When bolts are out....how to break it free??

It's filled with fluid?

 

Once off....does Duty C just have 2 bolts to remove?

Then attach new one with the "2 gaskets" (can you explain about the 2 gaskets? or will it be obvious once I get there?)

 

what about getting the end back on the tranny? any tricks or possible problems (I WILL BE ON MY BACK---sigh)

What seals the casing to the tranny? gasket...sealer?

 

 

thank you greatly!!!

Bill



#13 johnceggleston

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 03:25 PM

Drop exhaust would be next I assume


Do I HAVE to loosen/remove the tranny-to-body bracket? or can I just start unbolting the rear section of tranny?

what you HAVE to do is remove the rear extension housing on the rear of the trans.

if you can without moving the exhaust, have at it.

lowering the back end of the trans makes it easier to reach the top bolts.

one wire on the rear housing, remove the bolt and the speed sensor, passenger side, and let it hang.

the o2 sensor wire will probably free up when you remove the bolt on the corner with the keeper.

 

When bolts are out....how to break it free??


It's filled with fluid?

start with a putty knife, then a thin blade screwdriver.

eventually it will break the seal.

and it is full of fluid.

when you pull the drive shaft and lower the trans, fluid will likely pour out of the output shaft opening.

be gentle with the trans end of the drive shaft. you do not want to damage the out shaft seal.

 

you might drain the trans pan as well, before you lower the rump roast end, and then catch the extra out of the rear.

if you catch it all and measure that amount, you will know how much to add back.

reading the dip stick can be a b1tch.

 

Once off....does Duty C just have 2 bolts to remove?

Then attach new one with the "2 gaskets" (can you explain about the 2 gaskets? or will it be obvious once I get there?)

just 2 bolts and the wire connector.

the duty c sits on top of the valve body.

the last one i bought came as an assembly, but without the needed gaskets.

one gasket goes between the trans case and the valve body, the other between the valve body and the duty c.

no sealant needed, just paper gaskets.

 

what about getting the end back on the tranny? any tricks or possible problems (I WILL BE ON MY BACK---sigh)

What seals the casing to the tranny? gasket...sealer?

 

seal the housing back onto the trans with RTV ultra gray.

there is a paper gasket out there, but mine did not have one when disassembled, so i used the RTV.

 

DO NOT pinch the wire when mounting the rear housing.

i have only heard of this happening once, but......

 

the clutch discs and spacers in the drum should be held in place with some tension and should not move.

but if the do, just make sure all the teeth are lined up so the drum on the trans will slide into the drum on the rear housing, or vice versa.

 

good luck.


Edited by johnceggleston, 26 August 2013 - 03:28 PM.


#14 johnceggleston

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 03:37 PM

PS:

there is a small, 1 -2 inch diameter ??, roller cage needle bearing somewhere, don;t loose it.

 

and try not to mess with the parking brake pawl on the trans, near the bottom.

it has a spring attached and with the rear open one or both can slide off on to the ground.

i would look at it as soon as possible so you will KNOW how it is supposed to fit together.

 

i do not know if having the trans in N is better than having it in P, but i think N is more at rest, relaxed.

i don't know if that is better or not. sorry.


Edited by johnceggleston, 26 August 2013 - 03:40 PM.





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